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I've Been Robbed


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Hi Folks,

            yesterday me and Sue jumped into the RustBucket. Started the engine. Selected reverse. And ------ went forwards.  Hmmmm, a bit odd.

Knocked it out of reverse and the gearstick locked up solid.  Thankfully the Saab does not have a gearstick.

 

So a short while ago I stripped out the inside of the 4A and took the top cover off the GB.

The gearstick was still locked up - so the fault lay there (may be).

There were no signs of damage anywhere so removed the selector rods to see what was going on.

The three rods have an interlock to allow only one rod to move at any one time. Very simple but clever.

When I removed the centre rod I was expecting to find the little rod the holds the two balls apart  - but it had been stolen.

 

I'm sure I put it in there the other month when I was sorting out leaks at the rear O rings. I couldn't possibly have forgotten - definitely stolen.  But Why

It is only a small piece of rubbish steel - no secondhand value.

 

Tomorrow I'll get a cheaper piece of steel (well it is repro !!!)  perhaps that will put the robbers off.

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

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That'l  teach you for going where others fear to tread, those rods are well left alone, and if you put really really thick old in the box, Geronimo.

 

Roger, I'm sure I have a top selector unit somewhere or did have, If you want it I will try and locate it and get it to you?

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Good old Fashioned Banter, cant be bad !

I am surprised too , that you haven't been banned Roger .

Have fun refitting, the little Rod  !

Conrad.

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Hi Roger

Did your improvement to the selector seals work?.....Interested to know what you actually did to stop the oil coming out.

Do you have quick fasteners for your gearbox cover??  The bolts don't have a chance to get rusted in.....

John

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Hi John,

          I used the Q seals + a packing piece that kept the seals still.  I put them in place with silicon gasket goo. They are not leaking.

make sure your rods are not corroded - this will cause a leak.

As an exercise of interest I cut a hole in the top of the top cover to expose the rods in a cavity that is not used. (some GB's have a plate here.

I put a tie wrap on each rod to allow any oil to drip off.

 

I'm getting quite good at taking the top cover off and whipping the rods out.

 

Roger

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A drill bit that will fit the shaft and cut a little shorter then the shaft diameter  will work fine. Also I make the vent to the gearbox a little larger to help keep the pressure from forcing the oil past the shaft O-rings. 

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Hi Folks,

         it is all back but not without a fight.

When I took the top cover off it was stuck in a gear.

After fitting a new pin the top cover had  to have a gear fork moved to engage with a gear ring.

Try as I might I coudln't knock it out of reverse. I depressed the clutch (I told it about  sheared taper pins etc).

In the end I took the top cover off to have a fiddle; it was then that I discovered it wasn't in reverse but 4th - Doh!!!

 

Anyway it all functions nicely now.

 

Roger

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I think my story requires more violins than yours though...

When I had the box out to replace the clutch unexpectedly just a few days before the RBRR, I found the clutch fork pin was broken. The advice was to also fit a roll pin in the clutch fork as a double measure against breakage.

So, desperately short of time I ordered a new clutch cross-shaft, rushed over to an engineering shop about 10 miles away and persuaded them to drill and fit a pin same day whilst I got on a changed the rear hubs. I collected the part later, rushed back and worked into Wednesday night getting it back together. Thursday afternoon, great, finished all except the wiper motor.

Took the motor over to the bench and what did I find ...the roll pin...

ah well there’s always another day...you’re not the only one Roger!

Kevin

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I spent the weekend trying to refit my gearbox. 

I got it to within an inch of fitting. 

It just wouldn’t go. 

So with defeatist resignation I struggled to get the box out convinced that the clutch plate was wrong. 

So clutch off as well. 

The clutch plate fits the gearbox shaft. They are a very precise fit aren’t they. 

So I am now back to a flintstones style  TR3a. 

H

:(:(

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13 minutes ago, Hamish said:

I spent the weekend trying to refit my gearbox. 

I got it to within an inch of fitting. 

It just wouldn’t go. 

So with defeatist resignation I struggled to get the box out convinced that the clutch plate was wrong. 

So clutch off as well. 

The clutch plate fits the gearbox shaft. They are a very precise fit aren’t they. 

So I am now back to a flintstones style  TR3a. 

H

:(:(

Hamish,

         a difficult box is often the case.  One can struggle for an hour or two. Have a cuppa go back to it and it will pop in.

The box MUST be square with the back of the engine.

 

Roger

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19 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hamish,

         a difficult box is often the case.  One can struggle for an hour or two. Have a cuppa go back to it and it will pop in.

The box MUST be square with the back of the engine.

 

Roger

Thanks Roger. 

I felt something must have been wrong. So didn’t want to force it. 

Tried it in gear and turning the rear output of the box hoping it would mate up and slide in. But without luck. 

Is there a way of using spirit levels 

eg one on the engine rocker and one on the gearbox top where the switches are ? Just to get the level alignment right. Then it’s only the other axis to worry about?!

H

Edited by Hamish
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