AtLast Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hi all I'm about to try to fit my hardtop - it was original with the car but can't be sure it will line up following the restoration. A quick question: do you advise putting the screen in first and then fitting the hardtop or should I fit to the car first and then try to get the screen in. I searched the forum and found some useful tips on fitting generally but nothing on this as such. I haven't tried anything yet. Thanks for any help. Archie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 24 minutes ago, AtLast said: Hi all I'm about to try to fit my hardtop - it was original with the car but can't be sure it will line up following the restoration. A quick question: do you advise putting the screen in first and then fitting the hardtop or should I fit to the car first and then try to get the screen in. I searched the forum and found some useful tips on fitting generally but nothing on this as such. I haven't tried anything yet. Thanks for any help. Archie Hi Archie Ive not fitted a 3A hardtop, but would think it might be best option to pre-install the glass unless there are some fixing bolts which cannot be accessed with the glass in. Ideally, it would have been prudent to ensure the hardtop and fixings lined up prior to painting as you now run the risk of scuffing the paintwork etc trying to make it fit on a newly restored car. But as said my experience is limited to the TR4a backlight so not specific to the 3a, so someone else may be able to offer better advice. Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hi Archie Are you talking about the windscreen or the rear screen in the hardtop? I read your post twice and am still not sure! I have a hardtop to fit to my 3 and am about to embark on this too so I am watching your progress with interest! My issues are several! But include replacing bent windscreen stanchions; fitting the rear fixings to the tub and then of course buying a new soft top! The top rail on the windscreen on mine has the holes already so fitting the front brackest should be straight forward. The hardtops were designed to be removed/fitted with the windscreen in place and so in your case I would offer up the top with the screen (wind or rear!) in place. There is a fair degree of flex in the thing. I'd just proceed with caution and keep everything loosened until you are satisfied that it will fit before you clamp everything down tight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted November 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Thanks Kevin... yep I got the hardtop painted with the car about 3 years ago but only just got around getting the various bits so I'll have to see how it all lines up. I don't think there are any holes/bolts that would be affected either way. The only part I haven't got is the bar(s) that go inside to stop the reverberations although it seems like some people don't bother with them so I'll see how it goes. Ben it's the rear perspex screen... it is the original screen from the hardtop. It does have a few scratches but I at least it should fit the hole! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Ok, but I'd still fit it first I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 The hardtop without the rear screen is pretty flimsy. My current plan is to trial fit the bare top in primer just to see how it sits on the tub in case I need to coax it in one direction or the other. My top has a short crack in one upper corner of the window opening where it has been over-flexed and now I need to see where it should be before I weld up that crack. Once I see that the top is roughly fitting ok I'll put the rear window in to stiffen it up before I mark for the locations of the attachment points. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) The steel hardtops are more flexible than the fibre versions but definitely fit the screen first as being perspex they will flex a fair bit. The biggest problem is the seal which unless your using the US version isnt very good. The screens are fun to fit anyway as you`ll get one end in and the other will pop out so pretty much a 2 person job! If you read the Moss catalogue there is a good description of fitting a hard top. This seal is the best https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-TR3A-TR3B-FACTORY-HARDTOP-BACKLIGHT-SEAL-KIT/370626099514?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Stuart. Edited November 2, 2018 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) Cheers Stuart for the confirmation. Yep I've got my son ready at one end! I read about the bad fit of the rubber seals I think on one of your other threads.... I've got the seal from SC Parts. It was a bit more than Moss... hopefully it will be ok but in fact I could have ordered from the US given the amount of time I've had the hardtop ready... I've also got the old very frayed original to compare. I shall be starting it tomorrow hopefully. Stuart do you have the sound dampening bar(s) in yours? Cheers Archie Edited November 2, 2018 by AtLast Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, stuart said: The steel hardtops are more flexible than the fibre versions but definitely fit the screen first as being perspex they will flex a fair bit. The biggest problem is the seal which unless your using the US version isnt very good. The screens are fun to fit anyway as you`ll get one end in and the other will pop out so pretty much a 2 person job! If you read the Moss catalogue there is a good description of fitting a hard top. This seal is the best https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-TR3A-TR3B-FACTORY-HARDTOP-BACKLIGHT-SEAL-KIT/370626099514?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Stuart. Totally agree with Stuart, use the American seal, I found having the HT on the car bolted to the two outer screen mountings gave it some stability whilst you fitted the rear screen. These people, actually this lady, might have the relevant seal....she is very helpful https://phoenixtrim.co.uk/draught-excluder-seals-50-c.asp Iain Edited November 2, 2018 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 2 hours ago, AtLast said: Cheers Stuart for the confirmation. Yep I've got my son ready at one end! I read about the bad fit of the rubber seals I think on one of your other threads.... I've got the seal from SC Parts. It was a bit more than Moss... hopefully it will be ok but in fact I could have ordered from the US given the amount of time I've had the hardtop ready... I've also got the old very frayed original to compare. I shall be starting it tomorrow hopefully. Stuart do you have the sound dampening bar(s) in yours? Cheers Archie Last one I did for Martin (Distributor Doctor) had the bar but the previous two (one fibreglass) didnt. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 The spring steel bar makes a massive difference......I mean massive ,to booming in the cabin. But after 2400 miles in 10 days I can tell you they are still noisy! Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 What about coating the inside with stone chip before applying the headliner ?. Not as heavy as dynamat but would reduce the drumming effect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr graham Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Fit the hardtop to the car as Ian says , you will require a tool to insert the rubber finishing seal ,2 man job and get a set of plastic trim fitting tools as well , graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 I was thinking of putting sound deadening felt such as Dynamat or the Dodo Mat directly on the inside of the hardtop. Think that's a good idea even if I do also get and fit a bar. Graham what is the tool you reference please... do you have a link? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) A set of tools that make fitting the rubber seal relatively easy are available from the same company.....(I have no connection with them except being a satisfied customer) https://phoenixtrim.co.uk/draught-excluder-seals-50-c.asp As Graham says some plastic trim tools will help as well Iain Edited November 3, 2018 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Tools like these are useful https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1022/universal-fitting-tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-RUBBER-FITTING-TOOL-PLASTIC-SPATULA-ROUND-END-AND-ROUND-END/110881648718?hash=item19d10fb04e:g:w4QAAOSwLdBaHUZR:rk:2:pf:0 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr graham Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Yes Stuart everything you need there , especially the wolves one graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 4, 2018 Report Share Posted November 4, 2018 The identical fitting kit from Phoenix is if i remember correctly £17.50. https://phoenixtrim.co.uk/main-catalogue-3-w.asp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted November 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Thanks for the links everyone. One further question if I may. A present the front windscreen has top seal (part 554339) which is used with the soft top/hood. This is a lot different that the new seal (part 603328) I just purchased for the hardtop. The current seal, which I haven't yet removed, covers the inner lip of the windscreen. It seems to me that if i just took a stanley knife and trimmed it back to expose the lip such that I can fit the three clamped on triangular brackets then that should be as good a seal. In fact I can't really see how the new seal would fit although it may become apparent. Any thoughts? Should I just completely remove the existing seal which most likely means reversing the process again each summer if I want to go convertible again or just try to trim the existing one and leave it for both the hardtop and soft top options? Cheers Edited November 5, 2018 by AtLast Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 You use the current windscreen to soft top seal, cut away as you suggest to allow the brackets to fit. Then the HT has its own seal, H shaped secured by self tappers and cup washers also some contact adhesive. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted November 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 Ah brilliant - thanks Iain that makes sense. Glad I asked! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 7, 2018 Report Share Posted November 7, 2018 A further note, the USA seal is the best choice. However I have just checked an off-cut of this material Vs material listed by Kaye at Phoenix trim. Her part no IRS0770w/s is identical to the USA sourced seal I purchased. Worth a call as she says in the catalogue limited stock on these items https://phoenixtrim.co.uk/main-catalogue-3-w.asp Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) On 11/3/2018 at 1:56 AM, foster461 said: What about coating the inside with stone chip before applying the headliner ?. Not as heavy as dynamat but would reduce the drumming effect. Hi Stan, sorry I missed this. Do you think the dynamat weight would be an issue? I didn't really consider that... still wrestling with getting it all to line up (see other post re brackets) but looks like were going through a similar process... if I have mine done for next winter I'll be happy!! Edited November 9, 2018 by AtLast Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 9 minutes ago, AtLast said: Hi Stan, sorry I missed this. Do you think the dynamat weight would be an issue? I didn't really consider that... still wrestling with getting it all to line up (see other post re brackets) but looks like were going through a similar process... if I have mine done for next winter I'll be happy!! I dont know that it would be a problem, just that dynamat is heavy and would likely double the weight of the hardtop so you would now need both hands to pick it up. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
friarmike Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 On 11/2/2018 at 12:31 PM, iain said: The spring steel bar makes a massive difference......I mean massive ,to booming in the cabin. But after 2400 miles in 10 days I can tell you they are still noisy! Iain does anybody have a photo of the bar mine doesn't have one but mine is very early steal top. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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