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Triumph, not TR though, can anyone help?


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Hi All,

Just suffered a major problem with my GT6 Mk3. It has a Rotoflex rear end (good!) but just suffered total failure of a rear hub bearing.

Background is that I recently replaced the hub bearings with genuine Timken, fitted by a local machine shop. Seems they got the end float on the new bearings wrong and one was running too tight. Setting end float correctly is critical with these hubs, which is why I entrusted the job to a machine shop that I've used before and trusted.

Please could anyone here who has experience of Rotoflex GT6 or Vitesse suggest a specialist who can fit new rear hub bearings correctly?

I really don't want to do this join again!

 

Nigel

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Hi Nigel

a friend races a GT6 and he ended up getting a machine shop to recreate the rear hubs with bigger bearings and more steel after rolling his car at Rockingham

Seeing your post I spoke to him and he suggested that Mike Papworth at Coventry does hub rebuilds and or Canley Classics - also at Coventry do a CV hub replacement

So I suggest a phone call to either or both.

Good luck

I have no connection with either

Regards

MichaelH

 

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Ello Nigel, doo it yer self,

its really not that hard,

 

BUTT, if ye go by the book, it meks it hard and complicated,

{ like the end play on dizz , total  krapp  way of doing it int book !! }

 

ye,ll need t,tek the unit off, and work onit in a vice if ye got one,

a 3 legged puller is handy, but not a must have,

it,ll tek ye a few goe,s but it,ll soon become clear whats what,

 

after all, ye set yer front bearings ok, dont ye,!!!!

nee difference, just different set up !

 

M

Edited by GT6M
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Thank you M,

Thought about doing it myself then read the workshop manual and thought again. May try myself this time, as you're right, no probs with taper rollers at the front end.

Is it possible to fit new bearings, tighten drive shaft nut, feel for play or tightness, then take apart, adjust shims and try again? Like trial and error until it feels right?

Nigel

Edited by Nigel Triumph
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Yes it is Nigel, but take great care to not overtight if you haven't got enough shims, or the bearings may not appreciate….. (I'm rebuilding my own Mk2 GT6 !)

 

Edited by Chris59
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Absolutly right, that's what I've done on a TR5 diff yesterday ;)

You will be surprised by the fact that adding a single small shim to the excisting ones can give a lot of play !

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Thank you Chris.

That gives me confidence to have a go myself. I can't do a worse job than the machine shop I went to before... can I?!!

As a point of interest, there weren't any shims with the old bearings when the hubs were stripped. The old bearings did nearly 40k trouble-free miles over the years the car has been in my ownership. I was surprised when the machine shop reported that there weren't any shims fitted before.

Nigel

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Or they lost them, or destroyed them on dismantling (been there, done that……) 

Some of the shims in the TR5 diff I've rebuilt yesterday were brocken in pieces.

To be fair, I've never rebuilt a Rotoflew hub, but it really shouldn't be that difficult, if you take great care and check everything twice or more….

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Ello Nigel, yes as I said, so  others have said, try a few times.

and ye will soon fin oot that book is a real  mess of a way of doo,n it.

 

the frunts are diff in that they are taper bearings, Butt, are only adjusted finger tite,

rear are taper too, but under 100 lb ft, due t, the space,n oft bit oft outer hub bit.

 

{ Butt, its same as whats in my frunt hubs noo, a solid spacer, { like , MGBs ev }

this means its tightened tite, so as to mek the stub  axle in tension, same as rears.

an adjustment is by shims. }

 

try an get some shims, or mek yer own,

and try an doo it usin  a WD type oil too,  this way yeel feel the resistance better.

try an keep the thing turn,n as yer tightening it up,

as some times they stik an ye get a wrang reading,

 

a bigg vice is v v handy,

 

DONT try an tighten the hub doon wid the nut, it may strip threads, or end may also snap off,  got the medal  for both !!

tap hub doon wid a FBG an some wood packing

dont use a nyloc unless its weel worn, use a normal nut for testing,  The thicker the better, as it dont stress / strip the threads ont end.

as ye got moer threads t, come into play, follow,!!

AND, if yer shafts are olde, inspect threads for stripping, miss shaped, its common, cos nuts no bigg enuff.

whenst right, DONT go book on tightening, go aboot 3/4, an use loctite, or it may weel snap off.

 

 

last tip, wen ye think ye got it spot on,  tighten a wheel onto hub int vice, an rock it,

should have  slightest of slight rock, ie bogg all at all.

 

a wee tip,  if yer handy wid a drill, drill between the bearings, side an top,

drill an tap for a nipple,  then when ye want a new bit of grease,  pump away at one nipple, and tek other bung, nipple oot, an it,ll let olde greas oot whilst yer pump,n new grease in., when new grease come oot, then its done.

saves strip,n  hub t,re grease.

 

good luk

M

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Hi Marcus,

Hope I have your name correct, seem to recall M stands for Marcus but please accept apologies and say if I'm wrong.

Thank you for all the detailed advice. Grease nipple and plug to let grease out sounds like a good idea, would never leave the front taper rollers without regreasing occasionally. My drive shafts and outer axle shafts are the new CV joint type from Classic Driving Developments, so hoping no problems with threads stripping or fatigue causing the tip to shear off. But I think I get the point... What you're saying is there's no need to torque the nut to 120 ft lbs while setting up the shims. So I should only torque it up really tight once the shims are adjusted and set and the hub is finished?

And I do have a big vice. Will let you know how it works out.

Thank you again.

Nigel

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ahaa/ no so much worries wid the newer shafts, nut is deep enuff, and alott bigger thread.

still ne need t,tighten all the way up, as  it,ll nip up ok wid half pressure

and cos its a smooth roundy shaft, nowt  t,grip shaft whilst turning,  { dont clamp in vice wid oot  smooth jaw plates, as vice jaws will eat into shaft an cause stress raisers } so cant really tighten as a roto wid a lever between the spiders t,stop it moving,

a bar clamped onto  hub nuts is fine ive found, easy  t,mek up  and another special tool for yer cars !!

final tightening can only be done ont car wid brake on, if yer going full torque

 

only gripe I got wid the new CV  frae CDD is the  shaft

the ooter hub  fits owa a splined shaft,  which should be a smooth bit like OE

so in reality, nowt t,support the bearing.. even less so ift spacer wesha is fitted t,start oft shaft,

as the spacer is as thick as the 1/8th smooth bit,, oe is like 3 inches t, support the bearings

and, the fit is no as tight ont spline as is ont olde set up. so bearing tek,n even moer load

which is even moer criticle t,get the least amout of play right

 

yee,l soon see what im on aboot whenst its in bits,!!

 

M wid a K int middle :)

 

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just noticed ye say there wer ne shims.

this is nowt t, wurry aboot, as maybe ther was a bigger spacer wesha fitted  { ther are diff spacer thicknesses }

or, ther was too much play, so shaft end was filed doon  a wee bit,

a stroke of a fine  file is all thats needed, if ye no got acces t,smaller spacers, as spacers are hard, shaft aint

it works fine,!!

 

M

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