TR4 rear hubs

[MKTR]

Hi All,

Unfortunately my TR4 rear wheel studs have worn loose and need replacing.  The studs are the screw in & peen over type but some considerate owner had previously welded them also.  I thought that I would simply use a four stud hub puller and either attempt to replace the studs or fit  new hubs with the 4A push fit studs ready fitted.

Needless to say the hub puller did not budge the hub I tried to shift, as previous threads have stated.  So I have had to remove the whole half shaft and hub as one.  Being an amateur when it goes to engineering I have resigned myself to take the shaft to someone to press off the hub.  However, I have a few questions I would be grateful for your thought on:

1.  Can I remove both shafts in one go or does one shaft need to remain in situ to keep the diff set up.

2. Is it more cost effect to have someone grind & drill out the old studs or to press off the hubs.  I already have a set of new hubs just in case so can ignore that cost.

3.  Can any engineering workshop do this pressing off or should I use a TR specialist.  I have seen mention of TR enterprises before - but can they all do it.

4.  There is mention of drilling out the stud holes to remove the thread and fit the 4A-6 studs - what size are these enlarge to

5.  Should I just take the whole diff axle out and send it away for a complete overhaul including seals, bearings and end-float check?  If so any recommendations.

Thank you

Mark

[Motorsport Mickey]

if you have the hubs removed by a non TR garage or shop they will stick a 20 ton press on it and at the least probably buckle the hubs, if you can find somebody with the appropriate Churchill puller they will remove it probably without damage. TR Enterprises are well set up and have good experience and so should be able to take the hub off for you if needed.

You say the studs are welded, why then are they loose ? It sound like the PO has tack welded the reverse of the studs onto the hub flange (commonly done) on the screw in studs and maybe the studs have become slightly loose because the weld has broken. Screw  2 narrowish nuts onto the studs from the front locking them against each other and screw the stud further into the hub, hopefully the thread is ok and the studs screws in slightly and then "butts" up against the hub flange. If they are firm why not just tack weld (by MIG) again onto the hub flange (there is normally enough space to do it without removing securing the studs against again becoming undone ?

Mick Richards   

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

if you have the hubs removed by a non TR garage or shop they will stick a 20 ton press on it and at the least probably buckle the hubs, if you can find somebody with the appropriate Churchill puller they will remove it probably without damage. TR Enterprises are well set up and have good experience and so should be able to take the hub off for you if needed.

You say the studs are welded, why then are they loose ? It sound like the PO has tack welded the reverse of the studs onto the hub flange (commonly done) on the screw in studs and maybe the studs have become slightly loose because the weld has broken. Screw  2 narrowish nuts onto the studs from the front locking them against each other and screw the stud further into the hub, hopefully the thread is ok and the studs screws in slightly and then "butts" up against the hub flange. If they are firm why not just tack weld (by MIG) again onto the hub flange (there is normally enough space to do it without removing securing the studs against again becoming undone ?

Mick Richards   

+1 on the statement about bending flanges if the wrong press tool is used.   I have a couple of bent flanges that were brought to me for removal from their half shafts after a specialist non TR garage had done their best but failed.

and tacking the studs in place with MIG is OK if the studs are screwed back in the flange sufficiently.

Peter W

[MKTR]

update to my issue for any future readers:

I bit the bullet and removed both axles and hubs as complete units and took them to a local engineering workshop (also a TR owner) who used 18 tonnes to press off the hubs.  Then pressed on new hubs with studs already fitted (Moss), and I reversed the procedure to fit the axles back.  Steep learning curve with setting the axle end-float using the recent TR Action article by Peter Cox but all went back OK I hope.

Another learning point was that the new hubs are fitted with TR4A-6 studs that have a collar and so the brake drums to not fit over them without some work.  I see that this is mentioned on various TR traders websites but it did mean that I had to buy a 9/16 reamer to enlarge the holes in the drums.  There is a U-tube video to support this -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EnUwHY_c-8

 

 

[Drewmotty]

Thanks for the update. Threads often appear unresolved when the search facility throws them up and they haven’t been updated with a conclusion.