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TR6 replacement exhaust


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Now here’s the thing. Yesterday my not very old angle speedo drive packed up. No surprise I hear you say.

I have managed to convince the wife the easiest way to change it is to remove the exhaust first! Well she is feeling sympathetic to my shoulder dislocating problems .

So the question is do I go for the Phoenix crossbox single pipe system and keep my standard cast manifold. Or do I embrace a tubular manifold? If too many replies suggest the fit is poor then I think Inknow where I am at.

In anticipation 

Gav

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Gav,

 

I fitted both and both fit well. However, unless you really need the tubular manifold, it's not worth the hassle. It's a tight fit and generates a lot of heat. If you have an updated cam and modified head you should fit one to get the best performance. 

 

Colin

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I have a Stainless  Phoenix 6/3/1 and Cross Box at the back, it fits really well and sounds great, I don't understand anyone saying otherwise.

The pipe back is tight. The new manifold liberates a lot of BHP even with a standard cam. Never had an issue with excess heat.

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25 minutes ago, Prefect said:

I have a Stainless  Phoenix 6/3/1 and Cross Box at the back, it fits really well and sounds great, I don't understand anyone saying otherwise.

The pipe back is tight. The new manifold liberates a lot of BHP even with a standard cam. Never had an issue with excess heat.

+1

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Hi All

Firstly can I say I stayed with the STD Manifold, blasted, then hi temp silver paint and standard exhaust but in SS. Whether that’s right or not it up to the individual but I’m not really looking for extra power, unless it ends up being a huge amount slower than I’m used to in my 1.6D Passat EST, which I doubt.

But then to hijack your post. So I bought my nice new SS system and fitted it to my rolling chassis but left the bubble wrap in in certain places for protection. After a while (a long one, lol) the body went on and final painting was done and recently I removed the bubble wrap and discovered the ding in the rear pipe, as pic.

The ding must have happened in transport as fitting it to a rolling chassis was easy so it was never abused or dropped. Now I know I’ve left it way too long to get it replaced so I’m not worried about that it’s my tough luck for not inspecting it properly.

So the question is any idea how I can get the ding out without leaving damage to the polished SS from hammers or pliers or other tools?

Cheers

Keith

 

 

Exhaust dent.png

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Put an “as thick as possible”  pipe or round bar in it and bend it back.

But do not use heat.

Waldi

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I don't know if they make adaptors large enough but you can get hydraulic tube expanding tools, they typically come with a range of adaptors. Not something you'd want to buy but you might find a commercial vehicle garage/engineerings shop who might have one.

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59 minutes ago, iani said:

 you can get hydraulic tube expanding tools

Muffler/silencer/ exhaust shops have conical expanders, coupled with hydraulic equipment, would take that out in quick order.

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SS is bloody hard but I agree with others not to use heat; unless you wan't to go the professional route, I would beat out as much of the damage as possible & cut off what’s left of the visible damaged as you are happy with. But if you cut too much off, the exhaust fumes will not escape the rear of the car, get sucked back into the rear end vortex the car creates & result in black staining on the rear valance & lights & possibly allow exhaust fumes into the car. The distance the tail pipes extend the rear of the car can be surprisingly critical in blasting the exhaust gasses clear of the car!

But, from your pic, there seems to be a bit more of a problem than just the ding in the tail pipe. Unless you can adjust the back box alignment further, the geometry looks all wrong, tail pipes should be in line horizontally & rather closer to the rear valance; who’s SS system is it?
 

 

Edited by Richard Crawley
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20 hours ago, Keith66 said:

Hi All

 

Firstly can I say I stayed with the STD Manifold, blasted, then hi temp silver paint and standard exhaust but in SS. Whether that’s right or not it up to the individual but I’m not really looking for extra power, unless it ends up being a huge amount slower than I’m used to in my 1.6D Passat EST, which I doubt.

 

But then to hijack your post. So I bought my nice new SS system and fitted it to my rolling chassis but left the bubble wrap in in certain places for protection. After a while (a long one, lol) the body went on and final painting was done and recently I removed the bubble wrap and discovered the ding in the rear pipe, as pic.

 

The ding must have happened in transport as fitting it to a rolling chassis was easy so it was never abused or dropped. Now I know I’ve left it way too long to get it replaced so I’m not worried about that it’s my tough luck for not inspecting it properly.

 

So the question is any idea how I can get the ding out without leaving damage to the polished SS from hammers or pliers or other tools?

 

Cheers

 

Keith

 

 

 

Exhaust dent.png

Hi Keith 

A few Years ago I had a very similar ding on the end of my new exhaust which I didn’t notice until it was to late. At that time I took my car to CTM Engineering to have a 4 wheel alignment done and I asked Colin if there was anything he could do with it and he said no problem. I think he used an expander tool and it is now barely visible. So do as others have suggested above and go to an exhaust shop and see if they can sort it (expand it) for you.

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Cheers All

Seems like an expander will be the way forwards,,,,,when its on the road which knowing me could be a while.

Also useful info on the alignment etc.

BTH is just chucked it on in a rush when it was a rolling chassis as it seemed easier than trying to do the same wirth the body back on so i've paid little attenetion to the alignement and look, so the pic's of Richards car will make a very good reference point.

Cheers

keith

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That's a beauty, Richard. Looks perfectly hung, and the stainless shines.

My exhaust system was a mating of a Falcon S.S. down-pipe with a stock steel system-

the tech had a difficult time fitting the pipes together, so it hangs out the back 1.5 inches too much, and a bit lower then it should be.

 

Cheers

Walt

Edited by Sapphire72
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