powel1g Posted October 20, 2018 Report Share Posted October 20, 2018 Now here’s the thing. Yesterday my not very old angle speedo drive packed up. No surprise I hear you say. I have managed to convince the wife the easiest way to change it is to remove the exhaust first! Well she is feeling sympathetic to my shoulder dislocating problems . So the question is do I go for the Phoenix crossbox single pipe system and keep my standard cast manifold. Or do I embrace a tubular manifold? If too many replies suggest the fit is poor then I think Inknow where I am at. In anticipation Gav Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin3511 Posted October 20, 2018 Report Share Posted October 20, 2018 Gav, I fitted both and both fit well. However, unless you really need the tubular manifold, it's not worth the hassle. It's a tight fit and generates a lot of heat. If you have an updated cam and modified head you should fit one to get the best performance. Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted October 20, 2018 Report Share Posted October 20, 2018 Gav, I would recommend a Standard manifold with stainless steel system. I have tried two tubular steel manifolds, poor fit against head, can't remove manifold without first removing exhaust. unless they have improved recently!. Peter V W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 20, 2018 Report Share Posted October 20, 2018 It is hard to better the stock exhaust manifold. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
powel1g Posted October 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 Decision made. Original cast manifold it is. Thanks for the replies. Gav Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 I have a Stainless Phoenix 6/3/1 and Cross Box at the back, it fits really well and sounds great, I don't understand anyone saying otherwise. The pipe back is tight. The new manifold liberates a lot of BHP even with a standard cam. Never had an issue with excess heat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 25 minutes ago, Prefect said: I have a Stainless Phoenix 6/3/1 and Cross Box at the back, it fits really well and sounds great, I don't understand anyone saying otherwise. The pipe back is tight. The new manifold liberates a lot of BHP even with a standard cam. Never had an issue with excess heat. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 Hi All Firstly can I say I stayed with the STD Manifold, blasted, then hi temp silver paint and standard exhaust but in SS. Whether that’s right or not it up to the individual but I’m not really looking for extra power, unless it ends up being a huge amount slower than I’m used to in my 1.6D Passat EST, which I doubt. But then to hijack your post. So I bought my nice new SS system and fitted it to my rolling chassis but left the bubble wrap in in certain places for protection. After a while (a long one, lol) the body went on and final painting was done and recently I removed the bubble wrap and discovered the ding in the rear pipe, as pic. The ding must have happened in transport as fitting it to a rolling chassis was easy so it was never abused or dropped. Now I know I’ve left it way too long to get it replaced so I’m not worried about that it’s my tough luck for not inspecting it properly. So the question is any idea how I can get the ding out without leaving damage to the polished SS from hammers or pliers or other tools? Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 Cut it off ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 Put an “as thick as possible” pipe or round bar in it and bend it back. But do not use heat. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 I would go with Waldi's suggestion. Use many gentle taps with the hammer and proceed slowly rather than try and move it with heavy blows. If the metal has stretched it may never look perfect but after a while you wont even notice. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 I don't know if they make adaptors large enough but you can get hydraulic tube expanding tools, they typically come with a range of adaptors. Not something you'd want to buy but you might find a commercial vehicle garage/engineerings shop who might have one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 59 minutes ago, iani said: you can get hydraulic tube expanding tools Muffler/silencer/ exhaust shops have conical expanders, coupled with hydraulic equipment, would take that out in quick order. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 (edited) SS is bloody hard but I agree with others not to use heat; unless you wan't to go the professional route, I would beat out as much of the damage as possible & cut off what’s left of the visible damaged as you are happy with. But if you cut too much off, the exhaust fumes will not escape the rear of the car, get sucked back into the rear end vortex the car creates & result in black staining on the rear valance & lights & possibly allow exhaust fumes into the car. The distance the tail pipes extend the rear of the car can be surprisingly critical in blasting the exhaust gasses clear of the car! But, from your pic, there seems to be a bit more of a problem than just the ding in the tail pipe. Unless you can adjust the back box alignment further, the geometry looks all wrong, tail pipes should be in line horizontally & rather closer to the rear valance; who’s SS system is it? Edited October 21, 2018 by Richard Crawley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 Right, Richard. Box should sit level across the rear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted October 21, 2018 Report Share Posted October 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Sapphire72 said: Right, Richard. Box should sit level across the rear. That's spot on, although my rear box sits a bit higher & the tail pipes are about 1/2 that distance from the valance. Not sure what the hell went on with the text spacing on my last post! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 20 hours ago, Keith66 said: Hi All Firstly can I say I stayed with the STD Manifold, blasted, then hi temp silver paint and standard exhaust but in SS. Whether that’s right or not it up to the individual but I’m not really looking for extra power, unless it ends up being a huge amount slower than I’m used to in my 1.6D Passat EST, which I doubt. But then to hijack your post. So I bought my nice new SS system and fitted it to my rolling chassis but left the bubble wrap in in certain places for protection. After a while (a long one, lol) the body went on and final painting was done and recently I removed the bubble wrap and discovered the ding in the rear pipe, as pic. The ding must have happened in transport as fitting it to a rolling chassis was easy so it was never abused or dropped. Now I know I’ve left it way too long to get it replaced so I’m not worried about that it’s my tough luck for not inspecting it properly. So the question is any idea how I can get the ding out without leaving damage to the polished SS from hammers or pliers or other tools? Cheers Keith Hi Keith A few Years ago I had a very similar ding on the end of my new exhaust which I didn’t notice until it was to late. At that time I took my car to CTM Engineering to have a 4 wheel alignment done and I asked Colin if there was anything he could do with it and he said no problem. I think he used an expander tool and it is now barely visible. So do as others have suggested above and go to an exhaust shop and see if they can sort it (expand it) for you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Cheers All Seems like an expander will be the way forwards,,,,,when its on the road which knowing me could be a while. Also useful info on the alignment etc. BTH is just chucked it on in a rush when it was a rolling chassis as it seemed easier than trying to do the same wirth the body back on so i've paid little attenetion to the alignement and look, so the pic's of Richards car will make a very good reference point. Cheers keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 17 minutes ago, Keith66 said: so the pic's of Richards car will make a very good reference point. It's actually Sappire72's car, I just quoted on his pic. This is my car: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 (edited) That's a beauty, Richard. Looks perfectly hung, and the stainless shines. My exhaust system was a mating of a Falcon S.S. down-pipe with a stock steel system- the tech had a difficult time fitting the pipes together, so it hangs out the back 1.5 inches too much, and a bit lower then it should be. Cheers Walt Edited October 22, 2018 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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