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Kenlowe Fan Wiring Query


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Still sorting my birds nest under the dash from when I acquired the car, and have already stripped out more diy wiring than is now there and everything still works! Except the Kenlowe thermostatic fan! This is wired as shown by the attached diagram. It used only to work manually and ran on when the igntion was off, but didnt cut in or out based on temperature. Now, without any alteration, it doesnt work at all. I have also attached a pic of the iluminating switch under the dash (viewed from below). The middle GREEN is the earth (!), the remainder are as per the diagram.

Should this be wired/powered directly to a fuse as shown - always live? How should the wiring be done?

Any obvious reason why it wont cut in or out automatically with water temp, other than a u/s thermostat?

On the side of the switch, there is a bare wire connection between the switch body and the light body, blurred but visible in the pic. The connection to the light body is fractured , but if contact is made it makes no difference to the problem above.

Not really sure what Im aiming for here - presumably the fan should be temperature controlled automatically, powered via the ignition switch?

Thanks, your help with previous electrical enquiries has been invaluable.

David

 

 

Kenlowe Fan Switch - upwards view copy.jpg

Kenlowe Fan Wiring.jpg

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Hi David,

              you can either have the power to the fan coming form the ignition side or permanent 12V side.  They both work well.

 

Where ever you take your power from you want that to power a relay (the coil) and then take the 12V power direct from the car main 12V supply (either direct from battery of alternator brown wire) You do not want all that current going through the Ig switch.

This 12V power line goes from the relay to the fan.

The other side of the fan goes to the thermostat switch (not sure what Kenlowe do but a simple Thermo switch just goes on or off)

The other side of the thermo switch goes to earth.

 

It is worth putting in an over ride switch - parallel to the thermo switch.

I don;t think your drawing will work.

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Roger/Tom

Thanks both - Im still a beginner at autoelectrics, so will have a look at the details of your replies and may come back with some questions if thats OK.

The wiring in the diagram is correct as per the car and it has worked in the past, albeit only manually (in my ownership), but now doesn't work at all. What is the relevance of the bare wire (looks like heavy fusewire) linking the light body and the switch body - presumably just to show when powered on?

Regards

D

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Hi David,

                 you can't double up on relays otherwise one circuit will come on when you select another.

 

Have a look here for relays etc  http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/1297/12v-4-blade-30a-type-a

 

Your switch doesn't really make any sense.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Roger i hope this helps.

On Davids kenlowe switch there is a rocker switch for manual turning on and an orange light which comes on when either the fan is turned on by thermo switch or the manual one . 

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Roger/Roy

Point taken re multiple accessories Roger - blindingly obvious really - dohhhh!

Roy - that is exactly what Ive got, except there is a piece of 'fusewire' looking like its meant to connect the light and the switch, but is in fact broken at one end.

Thanks both. 

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2 hours ago, TRbeginner said:

Roger/Roy

Point taken re multiple accessories Roger - blindingly obvious really - dohhhh!

Roy - that is exactly what Ive got, except there is a piece of 'fusewire' looking like its meant to connect the light and the switch, but is in fact broken at one end.

Thanks both. 

It is a one amp fuse for the light.

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Nick - Your fan obviously takes a lot of current. When it turns on, the alternator has to work to supply that current which makes it more difficult to turn over and the engine slows a bit as a consequence because of the extra drag via the drive belt.   Perfectly normal and nothing to do with the capacity of the alternator as there would be the same drag whatever size was fitted.  Don't forget that unlike modern cars where the idle revs are stabilised by the EMS, the TR system is 'open loop' and will settle at the speed where power and load are equal.

 

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