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Rear Hub Bearings . In a Pickle


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15 minutes ago, DaveN said:

Stuart

How much are they? I’m always suspicious if a company can’t post their prices!

dave

I think £595 each.

Stuart.

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48 minutes ago, roy53 said:

Are Quaife and cosworth hubs not the same thing ?

Yes they are the same design, whether they are the same manufacturer I dont know  .

Stuart

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1 hour ago, DaveN said:

Stuart

How much are they? I’m always suspicious if a company can’t post their prices!

dave

We are a fan of the Quaife rear hubs, as mentioned previous, fit and forget items! £495.00 each + VAT. Well worth it in my personal opinion.

Tom

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Wow doubled in price since I got mine 4 years ago!! Finally going to fit them this winter glad to hear that they are so highly rated as was nervous about purchasing such expensive parts at a time when no one had been giving them any reviews- Mr Vessey recommended them personally to me.

Edited by michaeldavis39
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4 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

Wow doubled in price since I got mine 4 years ago!! Finally going to fit them this winter glad to hear that they are so highly rated as was nervous about purchasing such expensive parts at a time when no one had been giving them any reviews- Mr Vessey recommended them personally to me.

Doubled?? Genuine Quaife hubs £250 4 years ago? We never got them at that price :):) Dennis is a great bloke :) 

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1 hour ago, michaeldavis39 said:

Tom you do realise that I'm talking £600 for the set 4 years ago as compared to £1200 for a set now- both prices including vat. You couldn't buy a set for £250 4 years ago that would have been a steal for sure lol!!!!!

I totally got you regarding a pair :) 

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Hi Folks,

             I appreciate that the Cosworth/Quaife design has a stronger simpler construction but does that make it that much better than the standard hub as it was designed.

The original design lasted very well for the first 30 years (well beyond design life I would have thought) and pretty well for the next 10 years - not so good now.

 

Roger

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Folks,

             I appreciate that the Cosworth/Quaife design has a stronger simpler construction but does that make it that much better than the standard hub as it was designed.

The original design lasted very well for the first 30 years (well beyond design life I would have thought) and pretty well for the next 10 years - not so good now.

 

Roger

Roger! although the BL Hubs last well in most cases GKN Driveline being the OEM manufacture and I suspect designer, under the name of Driveline, did produce CV replacement drive shafts from the early 1980's for TR's. Did they know something dodgy about the original design? As I said before the company that I worked for in the 1970's had a few high mileage Triumph 2000's become 3 wheelers!

Bruce.

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The Cosworth hubs are heavier duty all round and the ability to change the bearings easily is the major plus point. Original hubs arent getting any younger. FWIW TVR`s that had the same rear axles used to lose wheels too.

Stuart.

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30 minutes ago, stuart said:

The Cosworth hubs are heavier duty all round and the ability to change the bearings easily is the major plus point. Original hubs arent getting any younger. FWIW TVR`s that had the same rear axles used to lose wheels too.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart,

          when I mentioned original units I meant the design.

New units are available - thus giving another 30 years trouble free driving.

Roger

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ST may well have redesigned the hub for a more modern CV type but I doubt they were overly concerned with the design, I reckon they were more concerned about cost. As cars are costed to the nearest parts of a penny the hub as we know it was expensive to build and needed someone with a modicum of skill to assemble correctly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys

Latest is I got a new hub and axle kit from a TR member but for some reason cant upload (error -200 or something).   So its a complete set including stub shaft, axle shaft the lot and looks very new & top condition.  Anyway, I will give to my mechanic but ask what other tasks or things to look for shall  I do when re-fitting?  Rear brakes is an obvious check but any bolts, bits to also do?  Look at my manual, I think it needs also a new gaiter but anything else?

Will sell new Timken Hub Bearing set on eBay  :-(

Edited by AarhusTr6
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On ‎10‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 6:15 PM, RogerH said:

Hi Bruce,

        I have no information on the bearings that Moss use.

I do know that when I returned a new hub with an issue the hub was stripped and the bearings binned even though they looked in new condition.

New bearings fitted at some expense.

For the last 18 months I have kept an eye on these hubs to see that they stay as they are and not failing - so far so good.

 

Regarding which drive system is best to use - ST Hub or CV - then I think that the ST Hub has experience and time on its side.

The CV shaft is a well proven design in areas it was designed for. But !! were they designed for the rear end of a TR. There have been failures. Time will tell. So far so good.

 

Roger 

Years ago when I was an apprentice and worked in the maintenance dept. for 12 months when checking end float especially when only 0.003 to .004". was required. There must be no grease or oil in or on the bearings??? This is why I believe Moss have not be able to achieve this running clearance. I bet they grease them up before collapsing the collar? Years ago when a friend of mine had a Velocette motor bike we could only get the next oversize roller bearings in when the big end crank pin was dry!

Bruce.

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4 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

 I will give to my mechanic but ask what other tasks or things to look for shall  I do when re-fitting?  Rear brakes is an obvious check but any bolts, bits to also do?  Look at my manual, I think it needs also a new gaiter but anything else?

Those hubs & axles look very nice.

You will want fresh grease pumped into the U-Joints (don't neglect the prop-shaft u-j's), the axle splines will need fresh grease, and, yes, gaiters(&wires) to protect from road debris--- two on each axle side.

It would be a good opportunity to drain & replenish diff hypoid gear oil., maybe even gearbox, too.

It is pretty easy to install the rear axles, just slide them in the opening after the brake drum is removed.

Install the inner half first, fit its gaiter in place. 1/2" nuts tightened to bolts/washers at the differential flange.

Fitting new outer gaiters is a little tricky, a heat gun helps to limber the edges so they slide over the axle edge. Then wrap the wire & twist.

 

DSCF1159 (4).JPG

DSCF1164 (3).JPG

Edited by Sapphire72
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Additional:

Check the back plates for the brakes where the hand brake lever pivots: it should be flat, no indents, to allow the rear brake cylinder to slide when the handbrake is actuated. 

Tell your mechanic not to overdo the 5/16” nuts for the hub (studs in aluminium).

Waldi

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4 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Additional:

Check the back plates for the brakes where the hand brake lever pivots: it should be flat, no indents, to allow the rear brake cylinder to slide when the handbrake is actuated. 

Tell your mechanic not to overdo the 5/16” nuts for the hub (studs in aluminium).

Waldi

16lb torque only on those nuts.

Stuart.

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7 minutes ago, stuart said:

16lb torque only on those nuts.

Stuart.

And if any threads in the trailing arm are stripped (very common) make sure he retaps the arms square in both planes, recommended to make or hire a jig. If he taps the holes with even a slight lean it will likely stop the hub sliding over the studs, the hole clearance is very tight.

Lots of info in the search section, try "Trailing arms" as a search.

Mick Richards 

 

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15 hours ago, Sapphire72 said:

Those hubs & axles look very nice.

You will want fresh grease pumped into the U-Joints (don't neglect the prop-shaft u-j's), the axle splines will need fresh grease, and, yes, gaiters(&wires) to protect from road debris--- two on each axle side.

It would be a good opportunity to drain & replenish diff hypoid gear oil., maybe even gearbox, too.

It is pretty easy to install the rear axles, just slide them in the opening after the brake drum is removed.

Install the inner half first, fit its gaiter in place. 1/2" nuts tightened to bolts/washers at the differential flange.

Fitting new outer gaiters is a little tricky, a heat gun helps to limber the edges so they slide over the axle edge. Then wrap the wire & twist.

 

DSCF1159 (4).JPG

DSCF1164 (3).JPG

Hi Saphire,

Thanks for comment on purchase, confirms how helpful other club members and owners are.  May I ask, do you have a picture of the gaiters please?  Please accept that I am on my new journey into car mechanics and its quite different to being a control/SCADA engineer!

Rich

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I ended up buying new Nissan based axles and hubs made here in Australia. I have had a problem with the drivers side axle not having enough movement in the CV joint but they made new parts for me which I fitted yesterday.

I like the fit and forget of these modern axles and hubs and being worry free of bearing play and breakage problems.

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6 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

 do you have a picture of the gaiters please? 

Hi Rich,

Yes, here's the Family Portrait ;)

Little outer Gaiters off to the left side. (wire wraps/ties in fore-front; axles before greasing splines; 1/2" nuts parked on TA studs)

Cheers

Walt

DSCF1161 (1).JPG

Edited by Sapphire72
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20 minutes ago, Sapphire72 said:

Hi Rich,

Yes, here's the Family Portrait ;)

Little outer Gaiters off to the left side. (wire wraps/ties in fore-front; axles before greasing splines; 1/2" nuts parked on TA studs)

Cheers

Walt

DSCF1161 (1).JPG

Thanks!

So in addition, I should only get the new gaiters/rubbers and wire - anything else?

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-213844 Boot

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-140753 Gaiter

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-512781 Clips

Thanks again

Rich

 

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