Horn slip ring wiring

[TRbeginner]

 

I need to replace the horn slip ring and attached purple/white wire. Is the 6oclock position (under the column) the best exit route for the wire on its way out to the cover under the column?

The light, indicator and overdrive stalks all have protective sheaths on them. I guess these are necessary? It appears to be impossible to fit all the wires and sheaths inside the cable cover without inadvertantly 'pinching' something between the cover and the column. Is there a knack?

Thanks all.

 

David

[barkerwilliams]

David,

In order to sound the horn the button shorts the purple/white wire to earth and the relay pulls in and the horn sounds. The wire is unprotected because there is little room and the worst that can happen is the horn will sound.

The lighting and other wires carry live circuits and if their insulation wears through and the live earths out,  if your driving at night and the headlamps suddenly go out it is not nice. As the headlights are not fused then at best you are looking at burnt-out wiring in the column, the additional protection from sheathing is a good idea for some circuits.

But there is room, I fitted a headlight dip switch on the column and the extra wires do fit between the cover and the column, they just need a little  arranging to form tight, neat bundles.

No knack to it, just remove all the column covers to get good access and one or two lights so you see clearly what you are doing, and DISCONNECT the battery!!

 

...and add a contortionist training course to your Christmas list - there are lots of jobs on TR's that will need it. 

 

Alan

[TRbeginner]

Hi Alan

Thanks for your reply. Understood re the earthing subtleties. As long as I know there is space there I will persevere. The only bit Im struggling with is the contortionist training - one total knee replacement and a torn cartilage in the 'good' one currently! I can get in position, but could stay there for a long time! 

Thanks again

David

[RogerH]

Hi David,

    if your loom is original then the insulation covering for the cables (the purple or red stuff) is a lot thicker than what is used these days.

Have a look here for what is available http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/198/1/single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable

I replaced a few of my cables in the  area under the steering column. 

I also removed the extra black sheathing. Working on the basis that as it is clamped tight nothing will move therefore nothing will chaff or wear our. 

Also if you wanted to make this into a life long job then the cables for the lights (TR4A) could be reduced to the smallest current carrying and run them through relays 

 

Roger

[TRbeginner]

Roger, thanks for the guidance.

The reason I started this is smoke emanating from the horn push area during use, and the plastic piston melting slightly but I cant see how this could have happened given that it earths to sound the horn.

The loom is original but looks in good nick, as is the car generally. I am having a general tidy up behind the dash while the instruments are removed. Have stripped out 50 years of bodges and hopefully will be left something safer and simpler. The only accessories now are the radio and the switching for the electric fan, both of which I need to address. 

Contemplating a full restoration starting in a couple of years so may leave relays til then. 

Your advice is always appreciated.

Thanks

David