RogerH Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hi Folks, I have the diff out at the moment. So with a little time on my hands I thought I would see how the GB is getting. Summer 2017 (or maybe 2016) I fitted new seals to the three selector rods to help cure an oil leak. As belt and braces I wrapped the area with a plastic bag in order to catch anything that may escape. Today I found the bag had captured apprx three table spoonful of oil. Hmm. Although the bag worked the plan didn't go according to the...er.... plan. How does one stop oil coming out of the selector rod holes. They are fitted with Q seals . The top cover is off, so I shall be doing things tomorrow - but what. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Perhaps Autogear in Osset may be able to help out, they do kits for the gearbox. I have never had to change any of those seals before, it looks a tricky job too, best of luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Roger Peter Cox has just done my box and OD. He noted “The slector shafts were all rust pitted where they emerge from the underside of the remote and would have contributed significantly to the oil leaks” He replaced them. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Now that is bad luck, Roger. While I had my gearbox out last autumn, I followed your suggestions and changed every seal that could be changed. I'm rather satisfied with the result and look forward to the bi-annual 'contrôle technique' early next year with hopefully,at last, no 'fuites généralisées', which is a too common note for english cars here in France. james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hi Hamish, no chance for rust getting at the rods. Hi Pete, if you know the sequence then taking the rods out is fairly straight forward. keeping the oil in is another issue. I had an idea an hour or so ago. So Thursday may be the day I sort it our (or maybe not). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Are you sure the gearbox breather is breathing, not blocked? Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hi Nigel, there is a breather on the OD and one that I put in the Top cover a couple of years ago. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Roger Are the quad rings tight in the groove, if the are smaller in profile to the depth of the groove you need to add some packing rings. As with the o rings supplied currently they are not big enough in section, and so the o ring moves back and forth in its slot as the rod moves and will actually pump oil out, you have to take up the slack with some nylon backing rings, or even better still would be to machine the groove/slot bigger to take a proper double lip seal will be the answer. I got some back up rings from the same company as the quad seals, its also in a post I did on this item some time ago, perhaps you will be able to find it? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 Hi John, I noticed that the original O rings were able to float around a touch. So I made some packing washers. It all looked well packed but still it leaks. I will try another Idea tomorrow. If it works I will report back. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 Hi Folks, driving up the M40 to collect the Diff I had what I thought was a daft idea to try and stop/reduce the selector rod oil leak. Chatting to my Diff man he showed me a top cover with a plate attached. This gave access to the hollow part of the top cover where the rods pass through. Hmmmmm Is there anything in there to intercept the oil on the rods to stop the leak ? Does anybody know why TRiumph fitted the plate - I think it may be for a saloon box. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 5 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Folks, driving up the M40 to collect the Diff I had what I thought was a daft idea to try and stop/reduce the selector rod oil leak. Chatting to my Diff man he showed me a top cover with a plate attached. This gave access to the hollow part of the top cover where the rods pass through. Hmmmmm Is there anything in there to intercept the oil on the rods to stop the leak ? Does anybody know why TRiumph fitted the plate - I think it may be for a saloon box. Roger Hi Roger Did they find anything wrong with your recently rebuilt diff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 "Roger Ive had 3 diffs reconditioned by two different specialists , both of whom came well recommended. 2 diffs from one of the specialists felt very notchy when turning output shafts after reconditioning, but I was assured this was how they were meant to be .The second specialist confirmed this was correct despite the diff he had reconditioned being nowhere near as notchy. I have to say I was a bit nervous about this, but when a fellow member was in trouble and needed a new diff, he had one of the two "notchy" ones but he found it to be spot on, quiet , smooth and no clonks at all - he was very happy and I trust he still is. From my experience then, notchy appears to be fine - hopefully one of our forum diff specialists can expand on this and explain why this is the case, if indeed it is! Waiting nervously! cheers" Roger - the above is a copy of my post in a similar thread about "clonks" - in order not to cause confusion, I've rechecked my refurbished diffs and the notchiness only occurrs when you turn the output shafts - if you turn the input shaft, it feels smooth and the free play is only about 2mm Does this agree with how you find your newly refurbed diff? Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 1 hour ago, RogerH said: Hi Folks, driving up the M40 to collect the Diff I had what I thought was a daft idea to try and stop/reduce the selector rod oil leak. Chatting to my Diff man he showed me a top cover with a plate attached. This gave access to the hollow part of the top cover where the rods pass through. Hmmmmm Is there anything in there to intercept the oil on the rods to stop the leak ? Does anybody know why TRiumph fitted the plate - I think it may be for a saloon box. Roger Later saloon boxes do indeed have that plate but I have no idea why. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 52 minutes ago, rcreweread said: "Roger Ive had 3 diffs reconditioned by two different specialists , both of whom came well recommended. 2 diffs from one of the specialists felt very notchy when turning output shafts after reconditioning, but I was assured this was how they were meant to be .The second specialist confirmed this was correct despite the diff he had reconditioned being nowhere near as notchy. I have to say I was a bit nervous about this, but when a fellow member was in trouble and needed a new diff, he had one of the two "notchy" ones but he found it to be spot on, quiet , smooth and no clonks at all - he was very happy and I trust he still is. From my experience then, notchy appears to be fine - hopefully one of our forum diff specialists can expand on this and explain why this is the case, if indeed it is! Waiting nervously! cheers" Roger - the above is a copy of my post in a similar thread about "clonks" - in order not to cause confusion, I've rechecked my refurbished diffs and the notchiness only occurrs when you turn the output shafts - if you turn the input shaft, it feels smooth and the free play is only about 2mm Does this agree with how you find your newly refurbed diff? Cheers Rich Hi Rich, the three flanges have a degree of stiffness to rotation but not exceptional. The free play is very small - probably in the order of 2mm or less. I feel that this should work OK now. Hi Stuart. if ever I found out I'll inform one and all. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2018 Hi Folks, whether the top cover has a plate or not the cavity is empty. I had a plan to try and insert some form of oil seal in the cavity. Annoyingly there isn't really enough room to install any form of seal. I have attached one plastic tie wrap to each rod. Hopefully this will cause and oil running along the rod to drip off into this cavity. I have renewed the packing on the Q seals at the rear of the rods and added some liquid gasket goo around the area. Will it all work - who knows. Regarding the reply above about the diff - there is a 'notchiness' on the output dives. This isn;t the normal dodgy bearing notchiness but the engaging of the planet great teeth with the crown wheel. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Geoff Posted October 13, 2018 Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 Roger, Is it worth having a word with Bill at Hardys - I can't help feeling he must have come across this problem with Triumph "Boxes" at some point. Geoff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 Hi Geoff, I've improved the sealing so I'll check that out before seeking help form the Pro's Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Folks, I noticed the other day that the GB was dripping like a good 'un. So I popped it up on its mega ramps and had a good look around. There was drippy oil !! I removed the internals of the car believing that when I had the top cover off the other week I had not sealed it properly. The top was bone dry Yesterday I cleaned the underside of the GB. Today there were drips hanging from the GB. On careful examination I think the oil is leaking from where the OD joins the GB - I think Hamish had the same problem earlier this year. Just rear of the big brass nut there is an undercut and I tyhink that is where it starts. So, as I do not want to remove the GB just yet, I have dome the worlds biggest bodge to stop the flow. The oil is not under pressure so I have put a coating of sealant all over the area. That should sort it good and proper (dream on sunshine) It would appear that the fix I did to the selector rods is working. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Rodger yes it was Hamish with this problem and his has been to Peter Cox for repair. I have the same problem with my gearbox/overdrive and I also put loads of sealant on but it still found its way through, the car is coming of the road in November for some bodywork repairs so may look at taking the box out then. mike. Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Roger ~ Many years ago I had the same problem with my 3A. ~ leaks from between the GB and OD. I scraped the joint between the two with a sharp knife and then rubbed 'Oyltite' stick into the joint. For me, this cured the leak. I got the 'Oyltite' stick from Frosts Restorations. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi again Roger ~ The Frost's catalogue shows the 'Oyltite' stick against what appears to be a TR gearbox and overdrive! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Tom you are correct, the part number 301039 - visible in the picture in the Frost catalogue is a clutch and gearbox casing for a TR2. How sad is that? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Tom, thanks for that. I have seen this product over the years but never used it. Sadly it will not help me as the leak area is just rear of the big brass nut and covered by on overhang of the brass nut body casting. If my mega bodge fails then I have one more trick up my sleeve. At BA we used a rather good sealant for fuel tanks. A two part rubbery stuff - Thiokol. I think it may be rather expensive though. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 That leak can be caused by a crack in the adaptor plate, thats quite a normal fault with them but also that plate can be twisted as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Stuart, I was aware that there could be a mechanical problem. If the leak persists then clearly the GB will need removal and fixing properly. I have great faith in sealant and a bl**dy good bodge. I wonder if the GB will be out before or after Christmas. !!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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