TR4Geoff Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 +1 for the adaptor plate - but hope this is not the case with you Roger! Geoff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 1 hour ago, RogerH said: Hi Tom, thanks for that. I have seen this product over the years but never used it. Sadly it will not help me as the leak area is just rear of the big brass nut and covered by on overhang of the brass nut body casting. If my mega bodge fails then I have one more trick up my sleeve. At BA we used a rather good sealant for fuel tanks. A two part rubbery stuff - Thiokol. I think it may be rather expensive though. Roger Wasn't it Morton-Thiokol who were responsible for the failed seals on the Challenger solid rocket boosters? That didn't end well to say the least. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Roger A type? if so the link plate will not be flat common fault. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 1 hour ago, peejay4A said: Wasn't it Morton-Thiokol who were responsible for the failed seals on the Challenger solid rocket boosters? That didn't end well to say the least. Hi Pete, quite right. Some naughty things going on that caused a serious loss of life. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 16 minutes ago, ntc said: Hi Roger A type? if so the link plate will not be flat common fault. Hi Neil, either not flat or cracked - if it is still leaking tomorrow then plan 'w' will be brought forward. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 I found there was a bit missing from the gasket on my o/d adaptor plate. Managed to change it without removing the gearbox. Would have been easier with the gearbox out, but I didn't have enough room. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 @Roger you have a PM dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SuzanneH Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, RogerH said: I wonder if the GB will be out before or after Christmas. !!! Probably Christmas Eve if I know you. we always have to have a panic over Christmas, for years it was Concorde. Before that it was Stylophones for colleagues kids. Edited October 22, 2018 by SuzanneH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted October 23, 2018 Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 Roger replied to pm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 (edited) Hi Folks, I took the 4A out for a 100 mile drive today to see if my leak repair has worked. It appears to have done the job so far. However I noticed that the sump screws looked rather leaky. They were all tight. One of the front screws appeared to be too long , so this left a corner not too secure. Removed all the screws and put them back with copious gloops of sealant. Upon getting out from under the car I notice a new drip of GB oil hanging on the back of the OD. Can the seal be replaced with the GB insitu - item #89 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/overdrives-components/overdrive-units-components-tr2-4a.html I suspect that the flange #90 may have a groove in it and need a sleeve. Roger Edited October 24, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted October 24, 2018 Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 I'm sure the seal can be changed but I think you may have to check the endfloat before you undo the coupling, there are calibrated washers to adjust the endfloat. It may be better to get a different seal from a supplier perhaps with a double lip to keep the grit out as well, there may be better seals/material than are supplied by the usual suppliers. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RdeJ Posted October 24, 2018 Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 (edited) Hi Roger, I replaced the seal with the box in position. It was required to remove the propshaft to get space for sliding off the flange. Also you need to make somerhing up to force the new seal back into the taill of the gearbox. In my case it was leaking because the drive-flange surface was pitted on the outside which caused the seal not to function properly. I ordered a "new" flange at a well known UK supplier, unfortunately the "new" flange did not even meet the quality of refurbished. It was just a piece fresh painted old ****. Robert Edited October 24, 2018 by RdeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 Hi John/Robert, many thanks. I may get myself sorted and attack it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RdeJ Posted October 24, 2018 Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 .....forgot to mention that I did it from above. So gearbox tunnel cover removed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 Hi Robert, that may be good. The rear end of my tunnel comes off separately so I have access from have and below without too much strip down. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 24, 2018 Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 On 22 October 2018 at 4:21 PM, RogerH said: Hi Tom, thanks for that. I have seen this product over the years but never used it. Sadly it will not help me as the leak area is just rear of the big brass nut and covered by on overhang of the brass nut body casting. If my mega bodge fails then I have one more trick up my sleeve. At BA we used a rather good sealant for fuel tanks. A two part rubbery stuff - Thiokol. I think it may be rather expensive though. Roger PR1422 B2 is the stuff - Fixed my 3A tank when I worked at Lakers, still working today. https://www.amazon.com/PRC-Desoto-PR-1422-Fuel-Sealant/dp/B00DJBU9N0 Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted October 24, 2018 Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 A thixotropic paste? How did you apply that inside your tank Peter? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Hi Folks, the sealant on the GB leak appears to be holding - so that is a tick. I replaced the GB/OD rear seal and flange and that is now dry - so another tick. The sump has given up and doing as I say - no leaks - another tick The diff looked damp at the 6-o-clock position so I have put a coating of sealant on that - the jury is out on that one. There is something going on with the crank rear seal. It is a Christian Marx seal so should be good. But there is always a small smudging of black oil at the bottom of the bell housing drain hole. I feel I am winning but have I won !!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 26, 2018 Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Hi Roger, Mine leaks from the (new) brass tapered GB drain plug, o km of use. That’s a poor start after a restauration, so I plan to drain the GB oil and use a sealant on the thread. Is this leakage on the plug “normal”? I think I torqued it enough. Did not want to hi-jack your post, but thought relevant so posted here. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Hi Waldi, that is one of the few places on mine that was not leaking. Use PTFE plumbers tape. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 26, 2018 Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Thanks Roger, since it is a tapered thread I assumed it would not need any sealant, apparently... it does. will drain and apply ptfe tape. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted October 26, 2018 Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Be careful. PTFE will lower the friction between the plug and the casting, and if you overtighten the plug the casting can crack. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 26, 2018 Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Thanks Pete, will bear that in mind. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2018 Hi Folks, whilst under the 4A, removing the diff, I checked the area that I tries to seal last month (October). I failed, it is still leaking. I shall remove the slurp that I put on and replace with better slurp and see if that does the trick. I know damn well that I will be removing the GB in a month or so's time to do it properly but I can't resist a good old fashioned bodge. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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