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Keith66

Spin on filters

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Hi All

Although I’m still way off finishing and starting up I’m starting to think about where things will end up, like pipe routing etc.

One of the thinks that might affect that is do I stay with the original filter housing or convert to the more modern spin on type?

Now my understanding of the main benefit of the change is that oil drains out of the horizontal old style filter but doesn’t out of the modern vertically mounted spin on cartridge type. Meaning after and engine start the oil pump has to fill the filter before oil reaches the bearings and as the vertically mounted spin on is always full the delay is very much shorter.

So a few questions, is that thought process correct? do they perform that function well? and how much additional wear to the bearings suffer with the old style?

Cheers

Keith

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You are correct regarding the delay in oiling the bearings if the original cartridge type filter is used. 

I have no idea how much more wear is incurred by using the original style filters but I changes mine because I thought i’d Rather not take any chances.  

I have had my conversion on for close to 10 years now and it has been great.  Oil changes are less messy.  And no leaks.  If you do change to the spin on style adapter, just make sure you are able to remove the old o-ring completely from inside the block so you can replace it with a new one. It might take a pic or a small screwdriver to get it out but it must come out or you will have oil all over your garage floor.

plus, there are many high quality filters to choose from.

c74

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Keith,

I converted to a modern quality filter too for better filtering, less time without oil during starting (not sure if really needed if the car is regularly used) and easier filter changes. There are several sizes of cartidges and different filter manufacturers. I fitted the relatively large K&N2009. If you buy the adapter, be carefull not to damage the thin O-ring between the inner and outer section. Both sections can move relative to each other to allow for (slightly) differing machining heights of all TR blocks produced, and an O-ring is fitted between the two parts as a secundary seal (to avoid oil by-passing the filter). Put a bit of oul on it before installation. Also fill your new filter before installing it. The larger (longer) cartridges will have to be installed slightly tilted fwd to allow for the clutch slave cylinder.

Waldi

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Make sure that you have adequate thread engagement for the filter cartridge on the centre threaded nozzle. 

I purchased a unit from a UK supplier that was fitted with a short nozzle. Blew the cartridge  off on the first start with the higher cold oil pressure.

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1 hour ago, Mike C said:

Make sure that you have adequate thread engagement for the filter cartridge on the centre threaded nozzle. 

I purchased a unit from a UK supplier that was fitted with a short nozzle. Blew the cartridge  off on the first start with the higher cold oil pressure.

+1

Also, I always fill the filter with oil then remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over on the starter until oil pressures registers on the gauge.  I do the same if the car has been sitting for an extended period before I start it again.

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19 minutes ago, KiwiTR6 said:

+1

Also, I always fill the filter with oil then remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over on the starter until oil pressures registers on the gauge.  I do the same if the car has been sitting for an extended period before I start it again.

As above and I always use a filter with a non return valve in it as the original Tecaliment instructions of 40+ years ago? My oil light goes out more or less instantly.

Bruce.

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Even as a stickler for originality on my very early car... I eventually changed from the Original to the convenience of the Spin-on type for all the reasons above.

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