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Keith66

Distributor Refurb.

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Hi All

Some more advice please.

My car has not run in a long long time, in reality it probably ran for less than 15 years before being taken off the road.

So I’ve got what appears to be an original Lucas distributor.

Do I just clean it up stick in new points and a condenser and put it back or get it refurbished by Distributor Doctor (or similar) or exchange it? (any other suggestions welcome)

What slightly puzzles me is that if Distributor Doctor refurb it that’s £195 but if Moss (not usually that cheap) supply a refurb one on exchange its £165.

I’m tempted by the Moss one but has anyone any knowledge or experience of the quality of the work or know who they use to rebuild?

Cheers

Keith

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Keith, if the innards are generally clean, the main shaft has little or no play in it and the springs/weights all move freely it is probably good to go with just a lube and a new set of points, condenser and rotor arm. If the shaft or bearings are worn the timing will be all over the place and if the weights dont move properly the advance will be wrong. The short braided strap to the points seems to be the first thing to go but you can get a new replacement.

Stan

Edited by foster461

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Keith I don't think there is a choice, DD every time. (A very happy customer.)

Iain

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Keith,

I did as Stan recommends.

dismantled it, but left the shaft in the housing, it had virtually no clearance. All was full of dirt, I was surprised what collects in there over time; it also did not operate smooth. Note the springs and be very carefull with them, they are different and with the weights determine the advance characteristics.

I then cleaned with a solvent and assembled (be carefull with the springs); it moved freely, then lubricated it with engine oil (but a bit of grease on the cams).

New earth strap (not just a wire!), condensor and good quality points.

it works smooth, but I have not tested it.

The first engine firing (expected this year) will tell if it works ok, if it properly advances. I made degree marks on my pulley for that, so can check the advance at the indicated rpm in the WSM.

The advantage of the DD is that he tests /calibrates the dizzy on a bench, so it will be spot on for your engine spec. I wanted to try myself first. 

Waldi

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Don't forget to test the vacuum capsule with a vacuum pump, it must hold a vacuum.

The numbers of the advance are stamped into the body near to the vacuum connection, check these with the WSM, to make sure the correct one is fitted for the number on the distributor body.  DD will do all this, and check the advance curve probably with new springs.  From what people have said it does make a difference to have it right.

John

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I have Martin (Distributor Doctor http://www.distributordoctor.com/ ) do all of mine and have done since he started and wouldnt go anywhere else. He does a proper rebuild not just a refurb.

Stuart.

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Martin at DD did mine in March, tested and printed an output graph, excellent job car runs well, now. If yours is a CP1972 PI it does not use the vacuum tube, Martin blanked mine off

Rgds Phil

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