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High Torque Starter -- Last to post?


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Tell us how old your still working High Torque Starter Motor is, which make and which TR model.

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"New posts must be older than previous!"

I haven't got the hang of the time machine yet. Mine only seems to go forwards at an ever-increasing rate.

MOSS -sourced  starter fitted about four years ago and still OK.

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Powerlite Model RAC102 from Eurolec Components, Brierley Hill. Fitted on TR4A, November 2011. ~ 40K miles since, no issues to date.

Tim

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Test & development item to replace TR2-3 'bomb starter' received from Trent Automotive in 1998. They were doing a range for Ford cars at the time and produced suitable units for all TR's for me to test.  All units tested correctly on a couple of cars of the TR range.  I finally fitted the TR2-3 item to my own TR3A car in 2004, it still works fine. 

The small Nippon Denso alternator they also gave me to test at the same time failed in 2012. - Replaced with a unit from Racetorations.

Cheers

Peter W

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I've had a high torque starter on my GT6 since fitting a stainless steel extractor manifold circa 2000. Can't be any more precise since I can't find the receipt although I think the warranty may have expired by now.

I only fitted one because the original starter would not fit between the bellhousing and the new downpipes.  Anyone else had this problem?

It's done approximately 15k miles in that time and never missed a beat. It's also much lighter than the old unit which is a huge bonus if you need to fit/remove it multiple times. I had this hassle with the E-Type after the flywheel had been skimmed.

Cheers

Alan

 

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I have had a WOSP type starter on my TR4A since 2002. No problems at all and it has seen a lot of wet conditions and high temps in the South of France and California.

I don't intend going to Alaska to test its cold starting performance. :wacko::o

Cheers

Graeme

 

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WOSP type on my 3A since April this year.  Hell of a game fitting it. But it works fine now it's fitted. 

The problem was that the original s. motor is fixed to the block with 2 x 3/8" bolts but, significantly, whilst the holes in the block are a snug fit on the bolts the holes in the s. motor are 7/16". This allows the motor to be located by the shoulder machined in the end plate of the block but allows for some misalignment of the machining of the bolt holes in the block. 1950's motor engineering wasn't always an exact science.

The fixed position of the stud in the top of the WOSP s.motor combined with a close tolerance 3 1/2" diameter shoulder, meant that the shoulder just would not go in the hole in the block. Rather than return it, I decided to persevere with some engineer's marking blue and a scraper. The "scrape a bit, try to fit, then scrape some more" technique took me the many hours to get a good fit as the branched manifold was still fitted. I've probably only taken 20 or 30 thou. off mostly one side of the shoulder.

My experience may well be a one-off?  Perhaps my block was the last one through before the summer shutdown in 1959!

I spoke to the nice guys at WOSP and they said it wasn't a problem they had heard of before but would check it out with thr TR suppliers they deal with. 

Phil.

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