Ignition Switch & key

[ChrisR-4A]

Hi all, my main question is when buying a new ignition switch should I buy complete with new barrel & key or retrofit my existing key and barrel ( preferred as current key also operates doors.) Also if buying complete with key then which is best, original or aftermarket?

The reason for new switch is since fitting a new battery about 4 years ago I have also fitted a new solenoid & new earth leads and car has started fine except for a couple of occasions, the last being in a 40 min  stop start traffic jam the other day when I stalled the engine and when I turned the key it just clicked, did this twice and then turned starter and car restarted. Have checked system today and battery has 12.48 volts and when cranking drops to 9.8 turning engine over ok, (original starter, reconditioned 5 years ago)

Edited September 30, 2018 by ChrisR-4A
Added detail

[stillp]

If the solenoid clicks in then there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch.

Check the earth straps, and if you're feeling energetic check the brushes in the starter motor are moving freely.

 

Pete

[MRG1965]

Hi agree might also be starter, my 4 refused to turnover this summer when sitting in a traffic queue, Silly hot temperatures. Had to try several times, begrudgingly started eventually, and was totally fine once the temperature cooled right down. Also ran like a pig, but again high under bonnet temp was probably causing fuel issues.

I'm looking to get starter serviced over the winter.

 

Mark

[ChrisR-4A]

Thanks Guys, my money is on starter as well now. As no more hot weather is expected until next year I will probably buy a high torque starter when one of the usual suspects has a sale.

Chris

[Geko]

The inertia starter is easy to recon. Buy a sundry kid with brushes, a good contact cleanup and you're away.