fitting wings - sealing?

[graham.dillaway]

I am coming to the end of a long restoration on my TR5 and I am currently fitting/aligning the wings getting the gaps correct etc.

 

I am going to keep the wing beading unpainted - I know there have been a few discussions previously with opposing opinions re painting/ not painting. I personally think they look better unpainted so mine will be unpainted.

 

However that aside has anyone got any views/advice views on how the wings should be sealed?

[Don Elliott]

I have restored 2 TR3As and I never used any sealer between the wings etc. and the tub. All parts were painted off the car, therefore all joint faces are pre-painted face to face. In 16 summers with my own TR3A, I've driven 87,000 miles of which 4,000 miles was in the rain. You don't get any more water in the joints as you do on the outer painted panel surfaces, either by the rain or when you wash the car. When I'm not driving it, it stays in my warm humid-free garage as well as all winter when I store it. Granted we have less humidity here in North America, but my opinion of sealer (or dum dum) is that it makes it all very difficult to remove a wing etc. afterwards, if you need to. I have no paint blisters or rust anywhere on my TR. The joints are still as they were in 1990.

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal, Canada

 

http://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/...919/ppuser/4127

[Tom Fremont]

My experience with a TR250 repainted in 1980 is like Don's; no sealant and no resulting rust either, after 24 years and over 100,000 miles.

 

As for the wing beading, it's difficult to paint this and have it look right; most are loose and the paint doesn't flow uniformly over the bead as it would if it were tight to the body, so your decision will make it easier on you. My '250 did without the first time but will get it ( right I hope and expect ) this time.

[graham.dillaway]

I have restored 2 TR3As and I never used any sealer between the wings etc. and the tub. All parts were painted off the car, therefore all joint faces are pre-painted face to face. In 16 summers with my own TR3A, I've driven 87,000 miles of which 4,000 miles was in the rain. You don't get any more water in the joints as you do on the outer painted panel surfaces, either by the rain or when you wash the car. When I'm not driving it, it stays in my warm humid-free garage as well as all winter when I store it. Granted we have less humidity here in North America, but my opinion of sealer (or dum dum) is that it makes it all very difficult to remove a wing etc. afterwards, if you need to. I have no paint blisters or rust anywhere on my TR. The joints are still as they were in 1990.

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal, Canada

 

http://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/...919/ppuser/4127

 

 

 

I have restored 2 TR3As and I never used any sealer between the wings etc. and the tub. All parts were painted off the car, therefore all joint faces are pre-painted face to face. In 16 summers with my own TR3A, I've driven 87,000 miles of which 4,000 miles was in the rain. You don't get any more water in the joints as you do on the outer painted panel surfaces, either by the rain or when you wash the car. When I'm not driving it, it stays in my warm humid-free garage as well as all winter when I store it. Granted we have less humidity here in North America, but my opinion of sealer (or dum dum) is that it makes it all very difficult to remove a wing etc. afterwards, if you need to. I have no paint blisters or rust anywhere on my TR. The joints are still as they were in 1990.

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal, Canada

 

http://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/...919/ppuser/4127

 

Don - Gosh 87000 miles and only 4000 in rain - wish we had weather like that over here - thanks for the response

[jerrytr5]

I used a good quality non-hardening sealant when I fitted mine. I don't remember which make, but just one of the clear external frame sealants I think. I haven't removed the wings since, so can't comment on how effective it has been, but there is no visible rust in the flange areas in the intervening 7 or 8 years.

I'm surprised that fitting them 'dry' is effective. I should have thought that with the body flexing the paint would get worn through - you guys must have spent a lot of time getting the flanges straight, mine were like the himalayas.

[TR 2100]

has anyone got any views/advice views on how the wings should be sealed?

 

I have to say that my experience is totally different to that of Don Elliot.

 

On my TR4, I did not fit any sealant to the wings - the car wasn't supposed to get wet! First time it did, on the way to an International TR Day, the spare wheel compartment was 6-8" deep in water by the time I arrived and checked. I was horrified.

After that, on any wet road, water would penetrate between the rear wing flange and body and down to the spare wheel. No need to guess what I'LL do for my next rebuild!

 

Despite the comments of "no rust" from Don and others, I find it hard to believe that you can tighten the wings without getting a crack or two in the paint. Without sealant, surely this is a potential rust point?

[ST TR5]

Hi,

 

When I rebuilt my TR4A I put plenty of Waxoyl along both edges before bolting the wings to the tub so if the paint cracked the Waxoyl should help to prevent any water which may pass through between the panels getting to baremetal, I intend to do the same with my TR5 when I get to that stage, Write or Wrong? You tell me!

 

Sean

[TR 2100]

Hi,

When I rebuilt my TR4A I put plenty of Waxoyl along both edges before bolting the wings to the tub so if the paint cracked the Waxoyl should help to prevent any water which may pass through between the panels getting to baremetal, I intend to do the same with my TR5 when I get to that stage, Write or Wrong? You tell me!

Sean

 

I would say 'Right', certainly for rust prevention. Use enough waxoyl and it may fill the gap and stop water penetrating as well.

[Red 6]

Hi,

 

Try using dum dum which is a black non hardening compound.

 

Think of it as being black placticene, and all thats required is a thin bead along the rear wings, i have never bothered with it on the fronts and by the way i think that leaving the wing beads unpainted ie shiny stainless steel looks best having tried both ways.

 

As an alternative try tiger seal, this is similar but comes in a cartridge therfore easier to put on. I will be using it tomorrow to seal the rear wings and deck on the 6 i am finishing, 2 weeks ago i used it on a vitesse excellent product.

 

Hope this helps.

[Tom Fremont]

on any wet road, water would penetrate between the rear wing flange and body and down to the spare wheel.

 

I DID however use a silicone caulk around each washer under each wing fastening screw - so no issues with water inside the boot for me

 

This time I'll be getting some sort of sealant mainly to ensure uninterrupted paint flow over the bead ( I'm smitten by the un-cut-up look of the body when the bead IS painted - properly, of course ). As for the choice of sealant, I'll leave it up to the body shop - they don't fool around

[heliguy]

I may be a bit pre-mature in replying here as I have yet to get my front wings off. The rears came off with not much problem, and the fronts dont want to budge. I have ( hopefully ) all the bolts and screws out. It is stuck at the back edge. Could someone tell me just how many fasteners there are at the rear edge?

Thanks in advance.....................

 

Mitch

[heliguy]

OK, i think i have answered my own question. There was just too much undersealant on the inside of the fenders ( sorry, wings ) for me to see some of the hardware. Should be no problem now. Back wings had just a bit of corrosion on the flange that will need a small repair, but the flange on the body just needed wire brushing to get down to bare metal. Not bad for a car that spent a few years at the bottom of a lake!