roger murray-evans Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 Got my 'previously restored' car back from the panel man yesterday. Only 350 hours of repair work under the filler!One of the downsides to distance buying!! Got the hardtop on and it fits, which is more than can be said of my supa dupa Ebay purchase of an unused rear screen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Well done Roger looks nice (not keen on the spats but thats your choice) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 +1 on spats never been a good look on a TR IMHO. Roger, I bought some paint on rust inhibitor used in body shops for unseen surface rust that really does work. Ideal for areas that are going to be hidden and gives time to look at how you are doing things. With winter coming rust forms almost instantly and a faint film sits there. I dig out my barrel and give details. https://www.spcb.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&description=1&search=Netphos 50 It is called Netphos 50 and I would not consider using anything else. Great for immersing items in and it is reusable unlike many other rust treatments. I use a pre-pasted wallpaper tray for long items and leave to soak fully overnight or just brush on. I am going to trial mixing wallpaper paste to make a gel like Jenolite at a fraction of the price. At £25 for 10litres it's a no brainer/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted September 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Yes, Spats very much Marmite.Obviously I'm a big fan and always have been, and they certainly do look different! Rod, thanks for the recommendation I've just immediately ordered the Netphos (£42 with vat and post) 10Litres and can be diluted 50/50 apparently.I'm interested in anything that does away with rust. Instead of getting your wallpaper paste out, why don't you just buy the gel option they have for sale?£21.50 for 5Kgs.Excellent for your oil rig or leaking TR by all accounts! Cheers Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Spats are perhaps not the best-looking part of a TR. But they're so related to the history of the model that I think that you should use them. It sets this car (model) apart from any other! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Hi Roger, Not available at the time I bought mine I think and I don't think I would ever have the need for that quantity so smaller amounts make sense to me. I tend to use straight from the the can as is and works a treat. Just brush on and leave to do the work. This stuff is brilliant at cleaning out old threads and will strip paint off so an all in one solution LOL. The guys were also very helpful if any advice needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 cannot wait for your comments on this new magical product Roger. SPATS: The first group meeting that i went to in the 70s . It was there the first person i had a conversation with was Roger and remember how proud he was of the fact he had a set of original spats. At last he has found a place to fit them. Although he was more into ALLARDS then, he did use a TR2 reg NEW *** as a daily driver and used to see him leaving the city in the south circular traffic. Coming along nicely Roger, ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted September 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Roy. What a memory! Afraid I still have strong leanings in the Allard direction.4 still on board, but all taking a back seat to the TR for the moment. I'm thinking the Netphos is rather like a POR15 Metal Ready coating, but somewhat cheaper. I'll keep you posted re it's use. Cheers Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) I am not sure if there are any aluminum pieces (around the hardtop?), but if the product being discussed is phosphoric acid-based and there are dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum near each other where the product can creep, then it may cause some corrosion issues. But again I may be off base here because I was mostly worried about using phosphoric acid products on the Doretti with lots of aluminum around. Cheers Dan Edited September 24, 2018 by 2long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hpremote Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Although l'm not a spatman myself, for me, the spats on your car somehow go well together with the hardtop, Roger. The fit is v. nice. The rebuild looks to be coming along nicely. To avoid thread drift, l've sent you a PM re. Allards. Tim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Looks great ! For me, i am a spats man.. esp when i saw it on Mvc575. so if theres someone with a pair willing to depart, let me know !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Hi Roger, I would treat the wing area under the rear alloy stone guards liberally when you take them off to polish. Not forgetting the wing flanges that can flex and take the paint with them. My objection apart from the look stems from a fear of braking efficiency. The air flow must be restricted around the drum and given that you have drums all round would be a concern for me. Drums all round works well if they are set up and working fully but they must need extra cooling in driving in a spirited way or else way would there have been the alloy Alfin rear drum. I am sure you have thought of this and have a solution which I would be interested in hearing. Given the amount of debris that impacts the rear stone guards I wonder how rain water flow is effected around the drums? Perhaps under certain conditions it would be prudent to remove them and put them in the boot. Let me know by pm how you have sorted the above as I my use in my own early car. BR Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 14 hours ago, roger murray-evans said: Roy. What a memory! Afraid I still have strong leanings in the Allard direction.4 still on board, but all taking a back seat to the TR for the moment. I'm thinking the Netphos is rather like a POR15 Metal Ready coating, but somewhat cheaper. I'll keep you posted re it's use. Cheers Roger M-E FWIW You do have to be careful over-painting anything that has been treated with the POR 15 Metal ready as some types of primer will just fall off it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Hi Roger, +1 on the issue of overpainting. So far I have not found any etch primer I have used that fights with the Netphos but worth trialing on a a spare object before trying to overcoat. If you leave items in too long you get a black crust forming but easily scraped off and the metal is clean and seems protected underneath. I rate it above any of the usual rust treatments and it is significantly cheaper even than Milkstone remover dairy use cleaner. Jenolite is so expensive and a one off use. You can use Netphos on a cloth and just wipe over surfaces. BR Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted September 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Dan, The hard top shall is all alluminium with the inner and outer cant rails and front header rail all in steel. The steel parts have already been prepped up and once the h/t is painted the steel parts are seperated from the ally by various seals and piping during final assembly, so shouldn't cause too many problems, during my lifetime I hope! Surprisingly the steel parts seem to have survived rather better on an ally hard top than the ally parts on a steel hard top!Much depends on past use I suspect. Stuart.Thankyou for the warning on the Metal Ready.My panel man liberally squirted it over the bare shell immediately I delivered it straight from the blasters.What should I try to avoid? I had intended to DA the whole exterior, then epoxy primer, 2k primer and then cellulose the final finish. I know cellulose it's not as robust as the alternatives, but I get on OK with it and any (many!) cock ups can easily be recovered.Plus I just like the finish. Rod and Tim I'll PM you. Cheers all Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Its the interaction to the primer where the problems occur, you need to at the least heavily scotch the panel where the metal ready has been used and/or 80 grit too and then give it a good clean with a good quality spirit wipe. I use the 2K primer/Cellulose finish myself and its a much more period correct finish and it can be easily repaired afterwards at any time. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted September 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Stuart, Thanks for the advice.The last thing i want at the end of the process is micro things popping up in the future! Cheers Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 I only know this as I had it happen to me on the inside of a wing once and some net searching in the US where this stuff originates from turned up that its the reaction with the zinc protection element of it that causes the adhesion problems. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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