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Surrey Top flying off at front


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For interest, I tarted up the appearance of the rear window assembly with a further innovation. The stopper filling the upright hole would normally be found in a laboratory flask. The "bung in the horizontal hole is filled with a plastic bump stop from stacking chairs which just happened to fit!  See pic. Luckily the stopper is roughly signal red!!

 

Best wishes    Willie

Tidying the Surrey.JPG

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Roger - many thanks for your very kind offer. I’ll p.m. you at some point. Meanwhile ................I tried the sequence as advised, starting at the front. I couldn’t get the rear fixings in despite slackening the frame. Admittedly it was cold so not flexible. Left it, maybe go back to it next week. In the garage this morning there it was sat like this. It’s a repro top, original metal strips and always has been tight. Very very difficult to fix the front. I have managed to put it on previous years but strength in fingers is declining. Any suggestions? JJC

 

2BF33831-24D2-4C5A-94C0-1A3BE27557D2.jpeg

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i JJC,

                  has the front popped out because the back is not attached?

Doing mine, after I insert the front metal plates/pouch under the capping I then screw in some pins in the back rail (where the screws would normally go to hold it down)

See pic

This allows the  rear rail screw tubes to be inserted into the holes in the rear frame . This allows the 5/16 screws to be inserted and tightened.

I find the hardest part is pushing down the 2nd of the two popper across the centre.

 

The gap under the front capping does need to be wide enough to allow the metal strips/pouch to fit in as deep as the seam in the roof fabric.

You may be able to raise it slightly with a spatula but I've never been lucky this way. I've had to fit spacers at the rivet positions of the capping.

 

Roger

 

 

 

Edited by RogerH
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may be a picture of your screen capping may give us a clue.

My way is first the frame then the front ensuring fully in and the 2 popper studs connected.Next the rear rail screwed in and poppers fitted and last the 2 that are on the centre rail.Finally the 4 elastic straps to front and rear hooks.

Roy

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Hi JJC,

               the picture doesn't show the profile of the capping to well but it looks as though it may be for a non - Surrey top. This has a shorted lip !!

Is yours a 4 or 4A.  The 4 should only have one option - extended lip. The 4A has a short and extended.

item #29  https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/windscreens-glazing-fittings/windscreen-sun-visors-rear-view-mirror-tr4-4a.html

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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I’ll take another picture from above. Car sat for years in barns gently decaying away. The original soft Surrey was with it the screen and capping are as it came. But who knows? Need to find another 4 and have a look. Alternatively a measurement might solve it. Is it the front to back depth of the capping that’s different? JJC

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6 hours ago, roy53 said:

may be a picture of your screen capping may give us a clue.

My way is first the frame then the front ensuring fully in and the 2 popper studs connected.Next the rear rail screwed in and poppers fitted and last the 2 that are on the centre rail.Finally the 4 elastic straps to front and rear hooks.

Roy

Roys' method is exactly what I do to fit mine without any problems.

I would agree that the photo of the screen capping, whilst it is from an awkward direction, looks like a standard soft top capping - i.e. without the lip required to locate/fix the surrey soft top front metal stiffener "bar." This is actually 3 parts, a long piece in the centre with 2 shorter end sections for flexibility.

Dave McD

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13 hours ago, JJC said:

I’ll take another picture from above. Car sat for years in barns gently decaying away. The original soft Surrey was with it the screen and capping are as it came. But who knows? Need to find another 4 and have a look. Alternatively a measurement might solve it. Is it the front to back depth of the capping that’s different? JJC

Hi JJC,

             the fore/aft length is different on the surrey & non-Surrey cappings.  I'll take a measurement this morning and post it.

 

Roger

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37 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi JJC,

             the fore/aft length is different on the surrey & non-Surrey cappings.  I'll take a measurement this morning and post it.

 

Roger

Roger, for goodness sake take a picture of the front capping too and post it here also. It might also be helpful to take a pic of how the fabric tucks under the capping.

a picture is better than a thousand words and all this talking  at cross purposes.

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Hi JJC,

         the fore/aft measurement for the Surrey capping  is 72mm at the centreline.

I can get a steel rue apprx 18mm under the capping.

 

Roger

 

PS - note where the pop rivet is and the front edge.

 

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Edited by RogerH
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Hi JJC,

           from above you capping looks about right.

Next thing is to sort out the gap between capping and screen frame.  If needs to be wide enough to accept the pouch with the metal strips in.

If it is not then it needs opening up a touch.

You could try a wooden spatula and lever it up - this may distort the capping.

Remove capping and put spacers in to raise the cap.  This will make you scratch your head

 

Roger

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Roger - brilliant advice by return. My capping isn’t exactly pristine so maybe that’s part of the problem. I’ll fight off the urge to go down the beach for a coffee in the glorious sunshine we’ve got at the moment and go back to the garage.

The car isn’t going anywhere right now see picture below, but maybe next week!

JJC

3D87BF3C-B307-4E91-B5FA-3385C7350214.jpeg

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Just measured under the lip. Nowhere more than 14mm and in places down to 10mm. Reshaping needed. Looks as though it needs reshaping at the upward facing  bit just in front of the rivets. That is, not just bending the front up?  I guess spacers might be easier. A washer glued on the rivet holes?JJC

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Hi JJC,

              if you go down the spacer route (and it does work) you need to think about where the spacers go.

If you fit the spacer (like a washer) under the rivet then you stand the chance that the capping with pivot on it and you will have other problems.

If you put a spacer forward of the rivet then the rivet may pull down the  capping and give a super dimple effect.

 

So you need to consider a spacer in front of the rivet (to give the gap). and a washer etc under the rivet to stop the dimpling.  It can be done but will take all day.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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