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Try the search box under "Liner heights" , all the "how to and where to gets" are there, about 2 dozen . I've just searched but can 't get the link to copy paste here for you

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Last time I tried Revington didn't have any 0.021"FO8 seals and in any event, I wouldn't really want them in aluminium, too many potential corrosion issues.

 

If you search on line for Artic Metals, they sell .55mm thick copper plate which is 0.0216". Don't ask me how I know.

 

Rgds Ian

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Just looked at the FO8 seals I took out. After just a few years cylinder 4 had rusted through from the edge (causing the failure) and number 1 was about follow suit. I’m told the antifreeze probably wasn’t strong enough to inhibit corrosion. JJC

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Fergy tractor dpares suppliers have them in different thicknesses.....They fo not call them FO8s, they call them 'spectical glasses'.

If you go down this route then you will need the ones from the larger 85mm Vanguard engine not the earlier 80mm as on this engine the spigot diameter is smaller.

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Cut your own.

 

When I was into building 3 or 4 engines a year I'd buy a bunch of different thickness copper sheets, maybe 8 or 10 covering the range needed, say18-24 thou and clamp them together outside and inside the spigot diameters between some thin alloy sheet. Then drill the centre with a hole to suit a boring bit (the sort you clamp to a T bar) and bore out the inner spigot diameter (about 5 thou clearance on the spigot ) then when through to the bottom sheet unclamp the sheets.

Deburr the cut edges of the shims and cut the outside diameters to suit your Fo8 shoulder width around the bored inner spigot dimensions and make sure the cut single gaskets are flat and have no burrs caused by the process.

Sods law says unless you plan to use a number of gaskets in various rebuilds even this relatively short process (under an hour) means you have copper Fo8 gaskets left over.

For single engine rebuilds I find it easier to measure the liner heights dry without Fo8 fitted and then remove the liners and alter the block or liners accordingly by machining and use standard copper gaskets. Normally the variance will be under 5 thou difference to machine off either the block top or liner tops. If the engine block has been together 20+ years it's likely the surface has moved or been lifted by the hot/cold engine sequences and head clamping forces anyway, so skimming is sensible step towards a reliable rebuild.

 

Mick Richards

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