Graham Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 Is it possible/advisable to remove the strengthening rib that runs along the bottom edbe of the boot ? the one that the boot handle fits through and runs across the bottom edge of the boot-lid. My reason for asking is that with my current bottled needing a full repair panel I have managed to get hold of a good replacement lid that although the outer skin is absolutely fine there is just the start of rust on the return flange, there is also a crease on the bottom edge of the lid that removing the strip would make knocking out easier, and I notice the reinforcing rib appears to be only held in place by the crimp on the return I can't see any sign of spot welds. Was wondering if I should separate the 2 clean up and get some rust proofing in there or if I should jus leave the thing alone, manage getting the crease out, and dose well with Dynotrol once its all finished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 Graham, you must kill the rust or you'll be wasting your time, and money for paint. Seperate the two peices, it is just a folded flange, perhaps a tack or two, take your time its simple enough, then clean up the rust, if you have solid metal, then rustproof and prime, paint and replace. Lets have some close up photo's and we'll help more. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickKerfoot Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 I took mine apart more than a few years ago now and recall finding 4 shallow spotwelds as well as the folded over edge. Try to open the fold as little as you can get away with as the action will tend to reduce the curve of the lid and it will stand proud at the lower corners... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 Hi Graham, as per John and Nick. A few simple spot welds - do not drill through the outer skin. If the internal rib is in reasonable condition then that will return the skin profile. I would open the folded edge a little more than just enough in order to grit blast ALL the muck out. After grit blasting use Kurust to kill any remaining rust. BondaRust primer over that and then a top coat. When all fitted back together waxouly/dinitrol etc in all the mating faces. I have found that the original ST internal rib actually causes the bottom corners of the lid to stick out. I make my own ribs and they do not stick out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted September 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 I have managed to separate the reinforcing rib from the boot and have to say was surprised at the amount of rust that was trapped behind it, chasing the blasting man now to see when he can fit me in and how much time he has ( hence previous post about paint stripper, if he has the time I'll get him to do the lot, if not looks like its the Starchem, with rubber gloves goggles and respirator plus having emergency services on speed dial ) To the point of this post there are 2 very small pin holes and some heavy rust pitting on the back of the lid behind the reinforcing rib, should I just spay these over with a zinc primer and re fit the rib or would the recommendation be to fill these pits and if so what with ? Current thinking was blast clean, zinc spray then refit rib with a very thin bead of body adhesive like Sikaflex 252 then dolly the seam shut again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Hi Graham, you shouldn't need the respirator if done outside or a well ventilated garage. if you intend keeping the bottom edge of the lid I would coat in Kurust to kill any exposed intergranular rusty products. Paint with Bondarust primer then normal primer and top coat. Seal any edges to stop water getting in. If you have pin holes then the rusty metal will be quite thin. Consider replacing the bottom 2" or so before Mr,Gritty turns up. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 (edited) Clean it properly in there and kill all the rust then spray weld through primer in between and spot weld it back together, clean the outside up properly and then lead fill the holes and the bottom edge to get it to fit properly on the car Stuart. Edited September 13, 2018 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JPD Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Graham If you run in to problems and the rust turns out to be worse than you expected, I have a stanpart repair panel that replaces the lower 4" or so of the boot lid, including the strengthening rib that runs along the bottom edge. I bought it from Walter Petchey when I was doing my 4A restoration, but actually ended up using a complete replacement boot lid as mine was worse that I originally thought. It's rust free and I was soon going to advertise it in the buy/sell area, but DM me if you're interested Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted September 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 Graham If you run in to problems and the rust turns out to be worse than you expected, I have a stanpart repair panel that replaces the lower 4" or so of the boot lid, including the strengthening rib that runs along the bottom edge. I bought it from Walter Petchey when I was doing my 4A restoration, but actually ended up using a complete replacement boot lid as mine was worse that I originally thought. It's rust free and I was soon going to advertise it in the buy/sell area, but DM me if you're interested Jeff s Jeff many thanks for the offer, but fortunately for me the rust in my boot lid is confined to a 3" length of of the bottom seam and it is literally 2 pin holes ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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