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Hamish

Undoing Flywheel bolts ?

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Can someone tell me how to lock the flywheel so I can undo the flywheel bolts as a one person job.

 

A picture would save a thousand curses.

 

Thanks

H

 

Contemplating one of those impact drivers that you hit with a hammer if I can work out how to attactch a socket. Rather than the screw driver bits it comes with. !!!

 

Like this

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p90581?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Y-3vKmj3QIVY7XtCh2N_Q0FEAQYAiABEgKopPD_BwE

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Impact wrench is the easy way.

 

Bob.

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Impact wrench is the easy way.

 

Bob.

I need to buy An impact wrench.

 

These are inexpensive and quite powerful

https://www.domu.co.uk/vonhaus-240v-impact-wrench?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImfzQhbCj3QIVBrXtCh1f_QOeEAQYAiABEgLpUfD_BwE

 

Too cheap tho?

 

This is only the second time in 3 years Ive needed one.

 

I know the Clarke CEW1000 is popular too.

H

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At Maximum torque of 500 Nm = 370 Ft Lbs that should do it.

 

Bob.

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Hamish,

 

No arguement with the above, and I'm not familiar with TR4s, but the TR6 engine has a pin in the rear engine plate, at the top. This can act as the fulcrum for a large screwdriver or similar tool that engages with the starter ring, so that counter traction can be applied to oppose the wrench on the flywheel bolts.

In the same way, "flywheel locking tools" are available for other cars, that may work, need adapation or else be the model for your own version. A lot cheaper than an impact wrench!

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=flywheel+locking+tool&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjPuer9u6PdAhXKK8AKHSvCCFsQ_AUICygC&biw=1920&bih=943

JOhn

Edited by john.r.davies

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Hamish

 

Is engine in the car or on the workbench floor?

 

If still in the car and you have the original crank extension on the front, you could try putting a pair of stillsons on it so that it locks against the chassis to hold crank solid, and then undo the flywheel bolts.

 

Alternatively, if the starter motor is off, an old trick used to be to put the flattish shaft of an open ended spanner through the hole and engage into the ring gear cogs, to lock the engine - bit more of a fiddle but doable.

 

In this day and age though, an impact driver is probably the way to go and can be used for lots of other things - I bought a mains one from Lidl recently for less than £40, IIRC and seems more than adequate

 

Cheers

Rich

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Theres always the rope trick.

Stuart.

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I can see the utility in using an impact wrench for removal but what about torquing up on reassembly? How accurate are they? Plus one for the rope trick. Works at both ends of the job.

Edited by peejay4A

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You should never really use an impact wrench for doing up bolts, torque wrench is safer. An impact driver for final tightening of the screws on door catch plates is about it.

Stuart.

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+1 for not using an impact wrench for final tightening, much too cavalier a practice.

Depending upon a factory preset to limit the torque when it's being applied by an electric motor is surely a recipe for stripping nuts or threads or even shearing bolts if it malfunctions. Yes...I know a manual torque wrench has a release set limit which relies upon it being calibrated but at least you have the chance to think "Hmmm,m this is taking too much effort" or even feeling the torque releasing as a bolt stretches or thread strips, not with an impact used for tightening. The most I do is use a Makita impact driver to run nuts up on long threads and then use hand tools when getting anywhere near it clamping up the object.

 

Mick Richards

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I'm expecting to be in the same place as Hamish later in the year and have been thinking about this problem. I'd considered an impact driver but realised that I would still need a means of tightening the bolts again.

 

I have a narrow belt conversion so I don't have a crankshaft extension that I can put a stillson onto but I do have a large socket that is a snug fit on the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley so I can use that (plus a suitable breaker bar) for holding things steady whilst I tighten up to 42 - 46 ft-lbs. I guess the issue will be whether or not it works the other way or will the crank pulley bolt come undone? (That's not a question I'm expecting anyone on here to be able to answer BTW).

 

I hadn't thought about a proprietary Flywheel retaining tool, I rather like the Sealey one, so thanks John.

 

Rgds Ian

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When I fitted a new flywheel to my 3A (Narrow Belt conversion) I fitted a large socket with a ratchet handle to the crankshaft bolt.

This allowed me to remove the flywheel bolts easily and also to replace them. (Cost ~ nothing).

 

Tom.

post-8925-0-99214500-1536150224_thumb.jpg

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Looks like you have answered my question Tom, the crank pulley bolt will work to hold the crankshaft steady whilst I undo the flywheel bolts. (well it did on yours, so presumably it will on mine.)

 

Rgds Ian

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That applies the same torque to both bolts. The crank bolt is the tighter, or should be, but if the crank bolt gives, then you're stuffed. Or have to find another way, anyway.

John

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Use the top mounting studs (for gearbox)and a suitable bent bit of flat steel to fit in the flywheel ring gear and you then can undo and torque up with no problem.

Regards Harry

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With regards to the Torque at both ends. You're quite right John.

But the crankshaft bolt is very tight and if you fit a socket and bar to the flywheel bolts and give the bar a smart smack

with a fairly heavy hammer then the bolts will give way long before the crank bolt.

 

Tom.

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Insert a bolt into one of the clutch cover attachment holes on the flywheel, another bolt somewhere in the rear engine plate or rear of the block, using a ring spanner put one ring over the bolt on the engine plate, rotate engine until the other end of the ring spanner will slip over your bolt on the flywheel, engine is now locked.

 

If the sump is off, an appropriately sized lump of wood (hammer shaft) between the crankshaft weight and inner block, engine locked.

 

Regards,

Richard.

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As Richard above, I used a 4" long bit of scrap bar. A hole at both ends, one end bolts to a clutch pressure plate threaded fixing hole on the flywheel, the other end of bar bolted to a suitable clutch cover plate hole.

 

Alan

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Hi and thank you every one.

All great tips.

 

Not sure I know the rope trick ?!?? Too young and innocent.

 

In the end - this morning - I replaced some clutch bolts and placed a piece of long right angle metal up against the flywheel and across the floor bridging the gearbox opening. The anti clock rotation (undoing the flywheel retaining bolts) meant that a bolt moved round and came to rest left of center on this angle iron.

Rightly or wrongly I then used a short extension bar and socket and -tapped- this with s small hammer. Enough of a shock to loosen the 4 bolts.

I am sure it will work in The same way when doing it all up with a torque wrench.

 

Mr cox now has both box and flywheel to work his magic.

Im unable to post pictures at the moment.

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Hamish,

Over the past 40 years I have had a great deal of success using a piece of light duty chain. Bolt one end (with a washer) to a clutch cover securing bolt hole in the flywheel and the other end (or one of the links. It does not have to be the end) to one of the transmission to engine securing bolt holes. It can be used also for torquing.

Dave

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Thanks for the tips everyone.

I understand I am being supplied stretch bolts to put it back on with. Ill have to ask for the torque setting for these.

 

Great forum help

Thank you.

H

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H. If you need a hand putting you box back in give us a call, in most days if not out in the TR. Or I could just come and watch you put it back in.

 

Mike. Redrose group.

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