Rear Springs

[bhunt001]

I am finishing a body off restoration. I installed new rear springs, trailing arm bushings etc but when I got everything back together and the wheels back on, the positive camber of the wheels was almost 5 degrees and the arms of the shocks were squishing the bump stops. There is obviously something wrong so I dismounted everything and removed the springs. I have tried from various forums to determine what the factory spring length is and have found various lengths and coil numbers.

What I have is 11.25 inches long and has 10 coils. There is no colour code paint on them. Im pretty sure this is the wrong spring and this is what is causing the positive camber and the extended shocks. Can anyone confirm:

1. If I am on the right track

2. What the correct spring specs are

 

Thanks in advance everyone

[graeme]

Hi,

 

Have you completed the rebuild, interior, carpets, seats, hood, all external panels, boot & bonnet? Until all this weight is on the car, I would not be unduly worried about the positive camber.

 

If all the weight is on the car, the other thing to consider is the swinging arm brackets, they are different, have you got them in the original positions?

 

Hope this helps you.

 

Cheers

Graeme

[barkerwilliams]

My TR6 came with much shorter springs, but the ride was very, very solid, poor road holding and generally unpleasant I went back to the original length springs which were 11.6" and the car ride and handling improved dramatically. 216275 was the original rear spring.

 

As Graeme above, the trailing arm brackets set the camber and can be fitted in numerous positions and orientations, so I would start there.

 

see http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

 

 

Alan

[Waldi]

Hi Bhunt001,

To add to the above:

The shims between chassis and brackets are used for alignment, so hope you noted the amount per bracket when you dismantled, that will give you a good starting point for alignment.

Waldi

[Peter Cobbold]

Its is important to tighten the bolts through the bushes with the car fully laden. If they were tightend at full droop on the t/a that might be the problem - additional spring action from bush-torque. Its quite tricky to loosen-retighten with the weight on the wheels but that would be my first action.

Peter

[Geko]

Concluding on the camber without having taken the car on the road after the above described changes seems a bit premature to me.

[michaeljf]

Hello, The car should be moved forward/backwards while moving the suspension down/up to settle it.Regards,Michael.