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AlfredHitchcock

What have you done to your TR today?

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I've been thinking about the fan warning light issue....(Badhuis)

 

"As Bob says if the feed to the WL is taken from the relay input (sensor wire), then the light will not come on a little when in the air stream. But then if the relay is faulty (which can happen, in my 37 years of motoring I have had the experience of three relays which suddenly stopped working) the light will come on even if the fan is not working. Which is a false indication."

 

Even on the output side of the relay, the light will come on if the fan is not working. The indicator bulb will have an earth so will light up if there is power from the relay. Take the lead off the fan and power up the relay and see what I mean.

 

One possible but complicated work around would be to put a second relay after the first so when power flows to the fan it also operates the second relay to switch on the light bulb. The bulb won't light up in the air flow because the reverse current from the fan shouldn't operate the second relay. Also the bulb will only light up if the fan is drawing power. However not entirely foolproof because fan may draw power and still not turn because of an internal fault.

 

Over to you now Bob (Lebro)

 

Keith

 

Oh just to be on the safe side you could duplicate this arrangement in parallel so if one circuit failed the other would still work but getting into realms of overkill now. See what happens when you start messing with the electrics of a TR!

Edited by keith1948

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Life is too short !!

 

You will know if the fan is not working because

1) you will not be able to hear it &

2) The car will overheat

 

Bob :ph34r:

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Life is too short !!

 

You will know if the fan is not working because

1) you will not be able to hear it &

2) The car will overheat

 

Bob :ph34r:

+1 I have only ever taken the light being on as an indication that power is being fed from the relay, nothing more.

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Overkill, yes indeed. How far can you go?

Having a WL for the fan can already be classed as overkill but still I wanted it. Happy as it is now, no need to complicate things further.

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Welded up a fractured rear shock mount. Rectifying insufficient weld when it was produced.

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Was out in the 6 on Monday and covered approx 200 miles but ended up on 5 cylinders for the last 20 - pulled out the plugs to reveal the cause, so come on all you TR Doctors - a diagnosis please

 

 

post-4947-0-41235500-1536184774_thumb.jpg

Edited by B Fitzpatrick

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Overkill, yes indeed. How far can you go?

Having a WL for the fan can already be classed as overkill but still I wanted it. Happy as it is now, no need to complicate things further.

 

Sorry you misread my tongue in cheek reply. Didn't really intend you to add extra relays and duplicate circuits - as I said "into realms of overkill". Leave it as it is.

I have an 8- bladed plastic fan as used on TR5's on my 4A and never found the need for an electric fan even in the south of France with temperatures of 37C in the shade. Car has never overheated but maybe just lucky.

Keith

 

p.s. spent today refitting now working speedo into friends car only to discover another problem - the inner part of the cable not turning. Suspect the angle drive on the overdrive is faulty. Oh hum - no rest for the wicked.

Edited by keith1948

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Was out in the 6 on Monday and covered approx 200 miles but ended up on 5 cylinders for the last 20 - pulled out the plugs to reveal the cause, so come on all you TR Doctors - a diagnosis please

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5783.JPG

No fuel getting to No. 1 - blocked injector ?

 

Bob.

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Agree no.1 not working.

But could it be no spark ?

H

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Thanks Bob and Hamish

Pulled in to investigate when it happened - checked 'pulses' on all 6 injectors so kept going- checked plugs with multimeter indicates No 1 duff, so have a new set which I will install

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Back to the original question - adjusted the position of the distributor. I have been running with it on gear out of alignment with a result the the vacuum advance module is too far anti clockwise.

 

Didn't need to do it but its something that I put back wrong when I replaced the camshaft and at the time I was in a hurry to finish so that I could use the car. At least it gave me a chance to check the tappets and reset the timing.

 

Rgds Ian

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Hello all.

 

Wired in a pusher revotec via relay and manual switch only. All good and feeling smug. Went for a drive around Curborough area then filled up with fuel. On restart the starter merely clicked. On the third attempt it started so we got home ok. On the drive it repeated the click but restarted on the second attempt. Is this the battery on its way out or the starter? I will clean all contacts on the starter when I am able (I’m working away from home until October).

 

Cheers

 

Dave

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Dave.

Check all heavy cable connections, including the battery earth cable, also check the braided cable from chassis to engine.

If you have a volt meter, measure the volts on the battery while cranking (if you can get it to crank) if it drops lower than say 8 volts, then battery is either badly discharged, or knackered.

 

Bob.

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There I was, fitting some braided brake cables to the brake master

cylinders (I have a twin brake master cylinder setup).

 

I had one cable loosely in place, trying to work out the best routing

when I heard the noise of a low flying plane. Not a usual occurrence.

 

As the noise became loud enough to be abnormal, I rushed outside

to see what it was.

It was the Red Arrows, flying low, connected I think with the start of

the Great North Run.

 

Only 10-15 seconds later, back to the job in hand, only to find that

the braided pipe had somehow flicked against the battery terminal

and shorted against something.

 

So - braiding discoloured and rubber core melted! Bu**eration.

I blame the Red Arrows.

 

AlanR

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post-13797-0-19372000-1536515936_thumb.jpg

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Removed TR6 bottom T shirt not a pretty sight underneath.

Paul

 

Looks like there was already a patch over the rusty original.

 

AlanR

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Dave.

Check all heavy cable connections, including the battery earth cable, also check the braided cable from chassis to engine.

If you have a volt meter, measure the volts on the battery while cranking (if you can get it to crank) if it drops lower than say 8 volts, then battery is either badly discharged, or knackered.

 

Bob.

Thanks Bob. Will do.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

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Driven it!!! A few hours up and back to our cabin on the lake - top down. Cold, but wonderful.

 

Replaced the RHS track rod end last week so the steering was both more direct and less shaky ;)

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Looks like there was already a patch over the rusty original.

 

AlanR

Hi Alan

This 6 had the trailing arm beams replaced without removing the floors or body so there were some extra reinforcing plates welded in wherever access would allow, the original T shirt had been cut to remove the beams, then patched. I have removed and replaced the top T shirt and welded the top beam seams also. Have now plated the holes and fitted a new bottom T shirt plate. Ready now for the blasters to do their bit.

Paul

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Hi Folks,

driving around the Hebrides last week the wipers decided to finally die.

 

They had been playing up for a while but wiggling of the switch always made then eventually work.

 

Two week ago I bought a new TR6 wiper motor but didn't have time to fit it.

 

What do you do when the motor dies?

Obvious really - remove the motor and spiral drive. Take the laces from your trainers and rig up a string double pulling system.

 

Result - not as good as a fully working system but far better than looking through the eyes of a 'Blue Bottle' for a number of hours.

 

Tomorrow should be fun. Do I simply fit the TR6 motor or do I go the 'Project Binky' route.

 

Roger

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Drove from Somerset to the Goodwood Revival on Saturday. Fab day out and the TR performed perfectly on the 240 mile round trip.

 

Only minor problem was the wipers playing up in the rain on the way home - not parking and the two arms getting out of sync a bit. Looking at it today, the parking was easily fixed (the earth cable had come off the from the motor). Also found that the driver wiper arm is not tight on the the wheel box spindle so it can slip when the screen gets a bit too dry, hence the loss of sync between the arms.

 

The wheel boxes and arms were both new 3 years ago, so I don't think it is wear, I think the arm is just not a good fit on the spindle - there is a bit of play of the arm up & down on the spindle and I can make it slip over the splines by hand. The passenger arm doesn't move on the splines and feels much more solidly fixed. Might try another replacement arm unless anyone has other suggestions?

 

jeff

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