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AlfredHitchcock

What have you done to your TR today?

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Fitted radiator hoses and returnpipe with temperature switch for the electric fan

 

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TR3a

Bit of stone chip touch up

Took wheels off to check brakes ( do I REALY need to upgrade the fronts?)

Looked at the rear drums (bit of a lip) and realise I cant tell by looking if they are out a bit and thus causing the slight pulsing though the peddle on light braking.

H

Edited by Hamish

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Last week i fitted my replacement fuel pump and new hoses to make sure it works, old one is know a ‘known good’ spare

 

Gave it a quick wash

 

Admired it in passing on my various motorbikes !

 

Might take it to Winchester on monday

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Fitted voltage regulator and put everything back together after sorting out my lighting switch.

 

Have lost one of the brackets that hold the tacho in place, it was there as I remember removing it and the knurled nut is in the box with all the other bits and pieces. So where is it??

 

Received a new rotor arm, condenser, points and base plate (long post so I can use 2 piece points) from Martin Jay. Was going to fit before our trip to ANGOULÊME and then the Italian lakes, but took it for a blast and it was perfect. So will take as a spare and follow the rule that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!

 

Nigel

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Checked all the levels, cleaned all the glass, all ready for a run tomorrow to the large (& I mean LARGE) model aircraft show @ Much Marcle near Ledbury complete with a picnic then followed by a shorter run the the Classic Motor Hub near Bibury on Sunday morning. Let's hope the weather holds for all of us taking the cars out!

Cheers.

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Removed seats, prized 30 year old carpets and underlay off the floor and consigned to bin, shovelled out 30 years plus of detritus and dead things, emptied contents of gloves box, ashtray and door pockets to the bin and hooved out the passenger compartment, of new project. Wife wouldn't let me back in the house until I had been well and truly dusted with 'Flit' ( no I'm not that old my Grandparents told me about Flit) now need a good spray down with Detol and a LONG shower....................... Ugh

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Ah , yes the TR. That reminds me to spray on belt slip before heading off to VSCC Loton Saturday.

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Ah well to conclude today, the car has been driven around and the speedometer cable now positioned so it zero's properly. "Fixed" worn passenger hinge problem by moving top hinge forward a bit so door doesn't drop now when I open it. Fiddled around with the panel light rheostat and pulled a wire off so had to fix that (leave well alone if it is working is the moral of that one!).

 

Still to see how to fix rattling surrey top frame?

Keith

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Searched mine for the rethreading file I bought when refitting the diff. Didn't find it, so can't finish fettling my elevating ramps.

Refitted the back panel to the driver's seat (again).

 

Pete

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Mounted the American heater valve I received yesterday. Now I can really turn off the heater with the knob!

Also installed a small warning light to check when the electric fan is on. This worked well when testing in the garage. On the road, when speed is over 50 mph, the light goes on dimly and increases with the speed. The fan motor is generating power from the airflow going through the radiator :D

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On the road, when speed is over 50 mph, the light goes on dimly and increases with the speed. The fan motor is generating power from the airflow going through the radiator :D

 

Ups, that will cost you at least 2 HP!

 

:ph34r:

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Mounted the American heater valve I received yesterday. Now I can really turn off the heater with the knob!

Also installed a small warning light to check when the electric fan is on. This worked well when testing in the garage. On the road, when speed is over 50 mph, the light goes on dimly and increases with the speed. The fan motor is generating power from the airflow going through the radiator :D

Sounds like the circuit you have installed has a problem. The fan motor generates power when the wind blows through it. The warning light that is presumably between the temperature switch and the fan is earthed allowing the current generated by the fan to pass through it to earth. Can't immediately see a fix for this but no doubt others will know how to solve this one.

Had a similar problem once with a bad earth on the horns. When I pressed the horn the high beam warning light came on. Took a while to solve that one!

Keith

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Not really a problem, but it does sound to me that you may not have wired your fan through a relay ?

If a relay is used (recommended) then if the tell tale light is wired on the input side of the relay (where the thermo switch / override switch would go) then it will not light up unless fan is switched on.

 

Bob.

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Hi

 

Put my TR3A up on my horizontal ramps 13 " off the ground, Reason is two fold as we are off to Canada tomorrow and it adds security in my garage with extra locks and the power turned off. On my return it is to fit the proper clutch slave cylinder support bracket as the one I have on is off a TR2 apparently. Also to replace cylinder return spring.

Once on the ground, it is off with the rear wheels to check the Armstrong shocks and refill if needed.

 

Dave

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The fan is wired through a relay. The warning light is tapped off from the output wire of the relay (which is the feed to the fan motor).

If the WL wire is tapped from the input of the relay, it will still light up when the sensor works and when the relay is faulty. In other words, it will not catch a failing relay.

What would be the problem if I leave it as it is now (ie tapped from the fan motor feed wire)?

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No problem at all, but it will come on as the fan rotates in the draft.

Only way I can think of to stop that happening would be to feed the fan through a high power diode, & connect the WL to the relay side of the diode. that way the voltage generated by the fan can't get back to the WL.

 

problem would be finding a diode capable of passing the fan's full current.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro

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No problem at all, but it will come on as the fan rotates in the draft.

Only way I can think of to stop that happening would be to feed the fan through a high power diode, & connect the WL to the relay side of the diode. that way the voltage generated by the fan can't get back to the WL.

 

problem would be finding a diode capable of passing the fan's full current.

 

Bob.

If the fan is a puller,ie on engine side of rad then are you sure this will happen, mine certainly doesn't.

Chris

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If the fan is a puller,ie on engine side of rad then are you sure this will happen, mine certainly doesn't.

Chris

It is the puller fan Revington sells. How can you be sure your fan is not turning? I do not think it is wrong. Would be wrong if it is NOT turning because it would then block the flow of air through the radiator.

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Who of you uses LED or standard bulb for the controll light,

LED needs less current, lights with less electric energie.

I would solve the problem with one of my Knipex.

 

Ciao Marco

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It is the puller fan Revington sells. How can you be sure your fan is not turning? I do not think it is wrong. Would be wrong if it is NOT turning because it would then block the flow of air through the radiator.

You miss my point, what I meant was that the light only ever comes on when the fan is running under power. It may turn in the wind slowly when not being powered but this is not powering the warning light as suggested.

I think my lamp is an led as it was fitted new 2 years ago when I added the relay and most are now.

Edited by ChrisR-4A

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You miss my point, what I meant was that the light only ever comes on when the fan is running under power. It may turn in the wind slowly when not being powered but this is not powering the warning light as suggested.

I think my lamp is an led as it was fitted new 2 years ago when I added the relay and most are now.

What can I say. The feed to the warning light is taken from the wire: output relay to input fan motor. So, when the fan turns in the air flow the light goes on a little. Mind you this is never as bright as when the fan is turned on by the temp sensor.

As Bob says if the feed to the WL is taken from the relay input (sensor wire), then the light will not come on a little when in the air stream. But then if the relay is faulty (which can happen, in my 37 years of motoring I have had the experience of three relays which suddenly stopped working) the light will come on even if the fan is not working. Which is a false indication.

My warning light is an old small chrome rimmed with a yellow glass, taken from a spare dashboard of a 1967 Daimler Sovereign where it functioned as the warning light for the rear window heating element. It has an old fashioned bulb and I have no plans to change it to a LED. If the bulb fails I have several others as spare.

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TR3a

All a solo job .......,

Seats out

Carpets etc out

Gearbox with od out

Clutch off.

Couldnt budge the flywheel bolts Ggrrrrrrr

 

 

Those gearboxes are heavy arent they !!!!

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Yes, especially with overdrive

 

Bob

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