ronhatch Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Hi all, I am installing a new loom in my TR4, I have changed to an alternator. I assume I change the old dynamo regulator to a alternator regulator ? also do I need to upgrade the fusebox ? Regards Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) Hi Ron, the alternator should have its own internal regulator. The Dynamo regulator becomes redundant. You need to connect all the dynamo wires in some sort of order. I believe that some people keep the dynamo regulator box and connect the wires in there. The new loom should be able to use the 'what is now' standard 35 amp glass fuse. I'm sure somebiody will be along telling which wires go where. Roger Edited August 27, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 All modern alternators have a built-in regulator, so there is no need to install an external one. Your present regulator can be left in position but needs disconnecting. You can use the A (or A1) terminal as a junction point for the new wiring as shown below but all the other connections should be isolated. Is your new loom adapted for an alternator? as if so some of the regulator wires will not be present anyway. There is no need to change the fuse box but if you do it would make sense to individually fuse some of the circuits though you new loom probably won't have provision for that. Don't forget that if your dynamo system was positive-earth you will have to swap some things around for the new negative-earth alternator; e.g. the battery terminals, the ammeter polarity and the ignition coil polarity. e Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 I can confirm the above diagram to be correct The linking can be done inside the old regulator enclosure (once the existing insides have been removed), or just ditch the old reg, & make the connections in the loom, thus freeing up a bit of bulkhead space for a 2nd fuse box Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Thanks for all the swift replies, having not done it before the amount of connections was somewhat daunting but things take a logical route ( sometimes, expect more questions ) I am going to change the voltage stabiliser for a solid state one should I also change the temp sender and flasher unit ? Regards Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) The temp sender doesn't need changing. The flasher unit will be be OK if its the original bi-metallic type. If its a newer electronic one you need to make sure its still the correct polarity. Coming back to your earlier question about fuses - when I swapped to an alternator I took all the guts out of the existing dynamo regulator and fitted an auxiliary fuse box inside. that way the arrangement still looks standard-ish. Edited August 27, 2018 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 And I would keep your original voltage stabiliser as they are usually a lot better. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 IF your car is +ve earth, then it will change to -ve when you fit an alternator, so be aware you need to swap battery terminals, swap ammeter terminals. and possibly radio polarity ? As Stuart says original type flasher unit will be OK, as will an original voltage stabiliser. You might consider fitting LED type bulbs, in which case you would have to change the flasher unit. If it is -ve earth already, then no problem. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Hi all, the car was originally positive earth (1962) and it is now negative earth, I bought the car dismantled so most of the problem is finding out where things fit. Any photos of the engine bay regarding electrics will be appreciated. Regards Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Thanks Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 another way of killing the cat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Tom's is correct, not sure about yours Jim ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted August 29, 2018 Report Share Posted August 29, 2018 Tom's is correct, not sure about yours Jim ! Bob. Works fine Bob. Did it that way so a subsequent owner (or me) could solder across the cuts if he wanted to go back to a generator Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 29, 2018 Report Share Posted August 29, 2018 Sorry Jim, had not noticed the cuts !! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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