MRG1965 Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Hi all, just wanted to pick the guru's brains. Replaced the diff cover gasket as it has a slight leak. Took the car out for a quick blast to check for leaks. On the way back car started splutter and died at the side of the road. Became obvious no fuel reaching the carbs, pumps manual primer did not feel right and was not pumping fuel, but fuel ran out of the feed pipe from tank, so fuel in tank and no blockage to pump and bowl clean and clear as always. Wife towed me home and swapping the fuel pump for one I had from previous owner so I connected the fuel lines up and operating new pump manually pumped and fuel and engine started, so looked like pump. Took old pump off, but operating the old pump manually it made the right sounds and seemed to work correctly developed a vacuum or pressure depending on which end I blocked with my finger. Only thing I could see was the pumps cam lever seemed to have a lot of lateral movement and the wear pattern seemed to be on one side of the lever. The only thing I can think of is the lever fell off the side of the very narrow cam lobe, although I could not see any marks on the casting on the cam next too the machined pump lobe to indicate this. Any thoughts on if this is possible and is there somebody who rebuilds pumps as new parts tend not to last long or be of any reasonable quality and I have no idea where the new pump came from... And the diff case cover plate still leaks, but car runs just as well as before. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Hello Mark, Dave Davis was recommended to me on this forum and, no relation or connection, he does a brilliant job; all original and better than new. You will find his details on forum and or let me know if you want contact number Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 +1 Pm sent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted August 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Thanks guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 The new repro pumps avail from the usual suspects have a narrower cam lever than the original and a poor pivot bearing resulting in occasional slipping off the cam lobe, if you have an original to rebuild then +1 for Dave Davies. He did mine over two years ago and it's been spot on since, 9000 miles and counting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 I am sure that what you suggest is perfectly possible Mark. I have an original pump with solid operating lever but noticed last year that the lever was bearing on one side of the cam lobe and I was concerned it could slip off completely. I removed the pump and took off the small plates retaining the lever. I then shimmed one side of the lever pin to bring the lever central on the cam lobe. Worth doing. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted August 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Hi Mark ~ I'm a dyed in the wool SU electric petrol pump enthusiast! All my cars over the years have been fitted with electric SU fuel pumps. My 3A has been converted to an electric pump. Switch on the ignition and the carbs. are fully charged. The pump is for a Morris Minor ~ Low Pressure type ~ Long suck ~ Short blow. All our Fire Engines were fitted with both electric and mechanical fuel pumps but were always run on the electric pumps for instant starting. Tom. IMG_1209 - Copy.JPG ,Thanks Tom, thats definitely an option to consider and the install looks very nice. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Without any problems on my replica fuel pump I did this some years ago, pump works without problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 If using an electric fuel pump, I think it important to feed the electrical power via an isolator such as that used on the PI cars so that, in the event of an accident, the power to the pump is cut and hence fuel does not continue to be pumped. If power is not cut, petrol could possibly feed a fire and lead to an almighty conflagration - I feel sure that Fireman049 Tom could talk about this in graphic detail! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Nice job Z320, that's much what I did to my pump to centralize the lever on the cam lobe. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Hi all, just wanted to pick the guru's brains. Replaced the diff cover gasket as it has a slight leak. Took the car out for a quick blast to check for leaks. On the way back car started splutter and died at the side of the road. Became obvious no fuel reaching the carbs, pumps manual primer did not feel right and was not pumping fuel, but fuel ran out of the feed pipe from tank, so fuel in tank and no blockage to pump and bowl clean and clear as always. Wife towed me home and swapping the fuel pump for one I had from previous owner so I connected the fuel lines up and operating new pump manually pumped and fuel and engine started, so looked like pump. Took old pump off, but operating the old pump manually it made the right sounds and seemed to work correctly developed a vacuum or pressure depending on which end I blocked with my finger. Only thing I could see was the pumps cam lever seemed to have a lot of lateral movement and the wear pattern seemed to be on one side of the lever. The only thing I can think of is the lever fell off the side of the very narrow cam lobe, although I could not see any marks on the casting on the cam next too the machined pump lobe to indicate this. Any thoughts on if this is possible and is there somebody who rebuilds pumps as new parts tend not to last long or be of any reasonable quality and I have no idea where the new pump came from... And the diff case cover plate still leaks, but car runs just as well as before. Mark Hi Mark, I have had two problems on my repro pump. 1 - the pivot pin slid out and so the lever arm had no effect. The pin ended up sitting on the top of the pump body, so could repair by side of road. I no have a shaped washer either side of the pin with flanges to stop the pin sliding out again. 2 - One of the non-return valves on the lid of the pump body dropped out of place. This has happened three times. Each time defeating the locking device I had. I not have a better locking method - sorted - maybe. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Hi Mark, I have had two problems on my repro pump. 1 - the pivot pin slid out and so the lever arm had no effect. The pin ended up sitting on the top of the pump body, so could repair by side of road. I no have a shaped washer either side of the pin with flanges to stop the pin sliding out again. 2 - One of the non-return valves on the lid of the pump body dropped out of place. This has happened three times. Each time defeating the locking device I had. I not have a better locking method - sorted - maybe. Roger DSCF0012a.jpg Hi Roger, mine is definitely the lever. Looking more closely I can now see that there are two wedges that hold the pivot pin in place and are working their way out and allowing the pivot pin to move back and forth unevenly causing the lever to have too much lateral play. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 This is a later generation of replica pumps than Roger and me are talking of. The pin does not go through the housing anymore, I have one of these as a spare-spare pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 If using an electric fuel pump, I think it important to feed the electrical power via an isolator such as that used on the PI cars so that, in the event of an accident, the power to the pump is cut and hence fuel does not continue to be pumped. If power is not cut, petrol could possibly feed a fire and lead to an almighty conflagration - I feel sure that Fireman049 Tom could talk about this in graphic detail! Ian Cornish +1. I had an MGB once that tried to immolate itself. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Just wish I'd looked more closely when I put the other pump on to see what the pivot set up is. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Hi Mark, Interestingly the later repro has the benefit of the pivot pin not migrating out sideways (as happened to me). However, their fix created a new problem. The pivot pin side plates become misplaced. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Mark PM sent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MKTR Posted August 29, 2018 Report Share Posted August 29, 2018 Hi Mark, I see that there is a lot of discussion about replica pumps, although it is not clear if your 'failed' pump is one of these. I wonder if it is an issue with the pump diaphragm instead. I had an orignal pump that gave the same symptoms as you listed but it would be fine again once the car had cooled down. It appeared to be ethanol related and the rubber material had gone 'floppy' (there is probably a non-technical term), which was OK on start up but would not give enough pressure after a few miles - even with manual priming. A change of diaphragm to ethanol resistant material cured it. Just a thought. MF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.