Jump to content

Replacement for Kenlow electric fan control


Recommended Posts

Hi everybody

Kenlow fan controls are good because they have an automatic function when the water temp gets too high and a manual override and a fan teltail light to enable the driver to manually switch on the fan and also be aware when the fan is running

very good but the fiddle of getting a copper tube into the upper waterways is difficult and difficult to seal

What other methods are used to give the auto control with manual override and tell tale light?

I have used kenlows for years but feel it might be time to move on

Would appreciate more modern solutions that others have found to work

Hopefully

MichaelH

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why do you wish to manually turn the fan on? And why do you need to know the fan is running? You wouldn't expect to do it in a modern car, so why except it in a classic? Engineer it out and then you can forget about it.

 

I have a Kenlowe on my TR6 (and not suggesting these are the best). I don't have the crude copper probe that is stuffed and sealed into the top hose (or similar). However it came with one that was intended to be poked between the radiator matrix and held in with a flimsy cable tie...which is also crude.

 

Instead, I made up a temperature probe pocket and when I had my radiator re-cored I got them to fit a thread port so I could screw the temperature pocket into the top of the radiator which would be in direct contact with the water feeding inpost-11738-0-78921500-1534890780_thumb.jpg. The probe slides with a tight fit into the pocket with a dab of heat compound paste, so the probe itself is isolated from the water and I have achieved a water tight seal. I'll look for some more pictures and post.

Edited by ShaunC
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi MichaelH ~

 

I had a Kenlowe fan fitted to my 1969 Mini Cooper with the copper tube fitted in the top hose.

As you say, getting a proper seal was a problem. Unfortunately due to how the copper tube was fitted

unbeknown to me the sensor bulb broke off. As the water temperature rose the warning light didn't come on

so I had to use the manual over-ride switch. In my opinion having an over-ride switch with a warning light is preferable.

 

My 3A has the heat sensor fitted to the metal section of the bottom hose. I also have a manual over-ride switch

with built in warning light.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
Link to post
Share on other sites

Michael

This sleeve is available to protect and seal the copper probe into the top hose

https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=080.256

 

Used it on my SP250.

 

But on my 3a I have the metal lower pipe with the sender boss.

I also have the manual switch and warning light.

Great to preempt a hot wait in traffic or lining up for competition.

 

You can get short adapters that you may be able to fit

Eg

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/aluminium-modular-inline-housing-32mm

H

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question 1 why override switch? answer in the recent hot weather a thirty mile blow up the motorway generates a lot of heat which I need to cool off as I leave the motorway so I switch the fan on as I come off the dual carriage way - specially If I end up in a line of slow moving traffic The car has actually boiled in this situation twice. I think it is the untypically hot humid weather - this doesn't usually happen on the road (checked for foam in oil - nil) in normal English weather

question 2 why tel tale light: so I can see that the fan is on

Same for my racing car - when I come in off the track I switch the fan on to cool things down sometimes have to switch the heater fan on as well as a secondary rad.

 

Meanwhile thank you for your ideas

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

for my TR4 & 4A i use the Moss down pipe https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/pipe-water-return-stainless-steel-130039sst.html?assoc=115013

 

Selecting the temp sensor range is not too problematic.

 

I have an over ride switch (with an LED) to help prevent heat soak as you have explained.

I am now considering fitting a timer to the O/R switch (apprx 3 minutes) as it is wired direct to the battery power - so could be left on forever and ever. :o

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have pondered the way my elec fan can run on for a minute or so after a hot run - typically after a high revving sprint etc. When everything is switched off. Ign off etc.

Surely this only cools the water etc in the rad !

And what really should be happening is an elec pump should at the same time as the fan is on be circulating the water ??

 

But you wouldnt want the mechanical original pump on at the same time as the elec water pump under normal operation

A quandary for me.

 

H

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had not heard of Kenlowe fans before, so I did a search on the Rimmer site. All the listings I found said “no longer available”. They only seem to offer Revotec fans. Are Kenlowe fans no longer available?

 

Roger, is the boss on the down pipe you listed only for Kenlowe fittings, or will Revotec ones like this work as well?

 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-EFCM14

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had not heard of Kenlowe fans before, so I did a search on the Rimmer site. All the listings I found said “no longer available”. They only seem to offer Revotec fans. Are Kenlowe fans no longer available?

 

Roger, is the boss on the down pipe you listed only for Kenlowe fittings, or will Revotec ones like this work as well?

 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-EFCM14

 

Jim

The pipe takes the standard thermal switch https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/radiators-hoses-fittings/water-pump-thermostat-fittings-tr2-4a.html

It is a simple on/off switch and can operate any 12V fan. best to use a relay to take the load.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the car boils when you pull up after a long fast run even though the fan is switching on with the stat it does suggest there may be a problem with cooling or the fan lacks the requisite power to cool the car.

 

Agree.

I went from a basic 13" to 14" dual speed Kenlowe.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

for my TR4 & 4A i use the Moss down pipe https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/pipe-water-return-stainless-steel-130039sst.html?assoc=115013

 

Selecting the temp sensor range is not too problematic.

 

I have an over ride switch (with an LED) to help prevent heat soak as you have explained.

I am now considering fitting a timer to the O/R switch (apprx 3 minutes) as it is wired direct to the battery power - so could be left on forever and ever. :o

 

Roger

I fitted this.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-5-Pin-10A-Adjustable-Multitimer-Relay/112598305150?hash=item1a3761c97e:g:mqAAAOSwYK1bFlL1

 

I have configured it to hold the enable line (not the load) high for the preset time of your choice when the ignition is turned off. If the fan needs to come on after I've stopped during this preset time then it can, or it will continue to run until the temperature control circuit turns it off, or again the when the preset time has been reached.

 

I have no need for an override switch :rolleyes:

Edited by ShaunC
Link to post
Share on other sites

The pipe takes the standard thermal switch https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/radiators-hoses-fittings/water-pump-thermostat-fittings-tr2-4a.html

It is a simple on/off switch and can operate any 12V fan. best to use a relay to take the load.

 

Roger

 

Thanks Roger!

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 years later...

Gentlemen,
I found a new old stock Kenlowe thermostatic switch on EBay as a replacement for the non-operational unit on my car.

When I removed the capillary tube from my car I found that the bulb was 3” long whereas the bulb on the replacement unit was 6” long and would have reached to the outlet from the car’s thermostat housing. This in my view would have made fitting the top hose impossible without dismantling the housing. The replacement unit has now been returned.

I plan to fit the stainless steel down pipe with the boss for an electronic switch. My first question is what is the heat range for this switch?

I found a selection of these switches on the TR Revington web site and there is a note which says that when using these switches it is necessary to use a relay to provide the power to it. Which relay, I will use a Durite one, should I use?

And finally would someone please let me have a simple wiring diagram?

Thanks in advance.

Graham

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Graham,

 have a look here at the Moss temp switches               Temp Switch

I would go for 88 or 92

You need a simple ON/OFF relay between the Temp switch and the coil of the relay - this way the temp switch is only switching 150mA

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-219-relays-flasher-units/p-642-12v-4-blade-type-b

The relay supplies ALL the power to the fan up to 20Amps.

 

Roger

PS Rob beat me to it.

Edited by RogerH
Link to post
Share on other sites

Modern cars may well have reliable fans and switches but the ones fitted to TRs sem to be less than reliable.

A warning light tells you your fan is on (or should be on), confirming switch function.

A separate switch gives the option of manually turning the fan on when the swtich fails or if you perceive the need to start cooling more before the temp rises.

If the fan fails it is a more problematic situation!

Are the fans and switches we fit intrinsically unreliable or is it the bumpy TR environment that makes then more failure prone compared to modern cars?

My supicion is that modern cars have manufacturer supplied switches which are better quality than the spares market. Likewise the fans almost certainly are of better quality than some of the overpriced garbage.

Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW Kenlowe no longer sell to the general public, they only now sell to car manufacturers. The problem with TR installations especially 4 cylinders is the vibration, modern electronics that most are using dont seem to like that environment whereas the old Kenlowe with the bulb in the top hose would go on for years.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

 

Are the fans and switches we fit intrinsically unreliable or is it the bumpy TR environment that makes then more failure prone compared to modern cars?

My supicion is that modern cars have manufacturer supplied switches which are better quality than the spares market. Likewise the fans almost certainly are of better quality than some of the overpriced garbage.

I would have thought that a quality fan such as a Spal is top notch and will not fail willy nilly

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Many years (~25ish) ago I bought a well-used Kenlowe fan kit from Dave Gleed. I needed it operational quickly, and I've had trouble in the past with a bulb in the top hose causing a leak (not on the TR), so I just placed the bulb in the lip at the bottom of the radiator header tank, and wired it in place. It's still there, and works fine! I have replaced the odd piece of 1/16 brazing rod that I used to wire it in place with a nice new piece of stainless locking wire though...

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.