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Diff Oil Change


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Either suck the oil out with a syringe or remove diff and take off the back plate and drain fully.

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Hi John,

Some people drill and tap a drain hole in the casing to install a drain plug.

Off course, this requires removal off the diff.

Regards,

Waldi

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I got a oil suction pump for this. Its powered by the battery and sucks up oil and discharges it into a container.

 

I think it was about £15 from Lidl a couple of years ago.

 

Daz

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There is only one true Triumph specialist here in Sydney, trained with Triumph in the 60s and does nothing but Triumphs.

 

His advice is top the diff up when needed and don't drain it. It doesn't get impurities like engine oil does nor does it get metal bits like changing gears in gearbox oil does. He says they removed the drain plug to stop people changing the oil as it wasn't necessary.

 

I have gone for 25-30 years without changing the diff oil in my TR2, over 100,000 miles and no problems from it. It needed a new pinion seal a year or two back so got changed then.

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I was lucky to get my hands on an old peristaltic pump with silicone tubing to suit. Great for draining and filling if you don't have the drain plug in place.

 

Useful for filling the gearbox too!...and when it's not being used for the car it's full time job is to water all the garden pots, set up as an irrigation system off of the water butt!

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Leave the diff nose oil seal leaking. Forget never to park nose downhill. Replace leaked oil............rouglhy annually. The oil never gets old, and the inner rear valence stays rustfree.

Peter

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Drill it in situ,

nee need what so ever t, take diff out.

 

the oil will no squrt every where, but just dribble doon the drill bit.

drill a 1/8th first,then a bigger ,n

 

a G/B drain plug will suffice, as its got a magnet init,

also, bung one int fill wol,, as moer sheite is collected up there than the bottom magnet

 

M

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Drill it in situ,

nee need what so ever t, take diff out.

 

the oil will no squrt every where, but just dribble doon the drill bit.

drill a 1/8th first,then a bigger ,n

 

a G/B drain plug will suffice, as its got a magnet init,

also, bung one int fill wol,, as moer sheite is collected up there than the bottom magnet

 

M

Not good engineering practice in my opinion.

Drilling in a random spot without knowing precisely where the internals are before hand may land you in trouble. And if you can't get the tap in deep enough to form a decent thread then you may end up with the diff out anyhow.

I wouldn't rely on a magnetic plug to round up the machining debris either. Make the effort to keep things spotless from the start.

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Not good engineering practice in my opinion.

Drilling in a random spot without knowing precisely where the internals are before hand may land you in trouble. And if you can't get the tap in deep enough to form a decent thread then you may end up with the diff out anyhow.

I wouldn't rely on a magnetic plug to round up the machining debris either. Make the effort to keep things spotless from the start.

Hi Shaun,

I can see where you are coming from but you may a bit too careful.

 

There should be a boss on the casing where the plug hole would have been. So position is OK

When drilling, 'nearly' all the swarf falls out - down in this case.. You may get a very small amount fall inside just over the edge of the hole.

Taping the hole, you would start with a taper tap and finish it with a plug tap as per a blind hole.

 

When finished you could poke a 'magnet on a stick' into the hole and sweep around the edge.

If using a GB plug & Magnet the small particles will be collected.

 

These diff's can survive with steel teeth laying in the bottom for years.

 

Roger

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I have a couple of small but powerful magnets on a telescopic pencil.

I was surprised how much metal they collect. Even after you think the area is clean.

Waldi

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There is only one true Triumph specialist here in Sydney, trained with Triumph in the 60s and does nothing but Triumphs.

 

His advice is top the diff up when needed and don't drain it. It doesn't get impurities like engine oil does nor does it get metal bits like changing gears in gearbox oil does. He says they removed the drain plug to stop people changing the oil as it wasn't necessary.

 

I have gone for 25-30 years without changing the diff oil in my TR2, over 100,000 miles and no problems from it. It needed a new pinion seal a year or two back so got changed then.

I beg to differ...... A cynic might say they deleted the drain plugs to save 5p on production costs and sell more replacements.

 

Having seen what just 3000 hard miles (lot's of Alpine passes and long stretches of high-speed autobahn) does to the oil in my Vitesse diff, I change it every couple of years/ 10k miles. Ok, the small-chassis diffs are a bit more stressed than the TR ones and run hotter, but even so.

 

Any oil-lubricated machine will benefit from regular oil changes and live longer as a result. Additive packages have a finite life and it's years, not decades.

 

Not hard to identify the spot to drill for the drain plug - the boss for it is still on the casting. Not brave enough to drill/tap in-situ myself though.

 

Nick

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