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Hi,

I'm hoping that I can tap into the huge wealth of knowledge that I know exists in the Register.

My 1955 TR2, which I bought quite a few years ago as a "project", has just returned from TR Enterprises having the body repaired and the tub painted. The engine had already been rebuilt and an overdrive gearbox installed. I'd previously repaired, painted, rustproofed the chassis and built up the suspension.

I've got a thousand jobs going around in my head that obviously need doing, but I would really appreciate some pointers from people who have been through this experience before.

What is the best sequence of jobs to reduce the number of times I'll have to undo the job that I've just completed?

Any advice and useful tips will be gratefully received.

Thanks

 

Ian

 

 

 

 

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Yes, some pictures would be good.

Obvious things like ensuring all the mechanicals work would be sensible before all the body and trim are fitted - having to remove and replace the gearbox a couple of times and replace a leaking radiator are all much easier without - well I know it would have been!

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Ian

 

I take it the outer panels which aren't fitted at the moment, have been trial fitted and adjusted to a good fit already, and have been painted - otherwise you could be in for a lot more work.

 

It sounds like the tub was repaired off the chassis, so my inclination would be to refit the tub to the chassis early on and trial ft all the outer panels to check the panel gaps are all ok - making adjustments now, albeit difficult , will be much simpler than discovering an issue much later in the rebuild

 

As has already been said, sorting out all the mechanical bits at the front end is a lot easier to do before final fitting of the front shroud etc .

 

In using TR Enterprises for a lot of the work already, they have years of experience and I'm sure they will happily give you first rate advice - have also sent you a PM ( envelope icon at top of page - click on it to see messages within)

 

Cheers

Rich

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Hi,

I've attached 3 photos to give an idea of the current state of the car.

Rich - the whole bodywork was repaired on the chassis and I've got it at home at this stage so that I've got better access for fitting the hydraulics, fuel system, wiring, etc.

The guys at TR Enterprises are a great source of advice and support, but I'm always open to tips from people who have restored at home.

Regards

Ianpost-1697-0-27681400-1534426413_thumb.jpgpost-1697-0-31241100-1534426427_thumb.jpgpost-1697-0-10286500-1534426439_thumb.jpg

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My recent experience in doing this was.

 

Clear the paint out all the bolt holes. You will need the following taps 1/4" unf, No10 UNF, No 8 UNF.

Source your fitting bolts, washers, screws - Mild steel or stainless? I went stainless.

Door gaps will have shrunk by however much paint was put on. Remember you will have rubber seals to fit too. (Moss UK spare wheel lid and boot seals are as hard as rock and need a lot of work to make usable. - Have yet to achieve that little challenge) You will put panels on and off more than once. Doors need to be off to fit front wings. You will need trusted help, so as not to chip the paint.

 

Go slowly.

 

Questions.

How much spare paint do you have?

How does the fan belt get tensioned/adjusted on the alternator? I cannot see the bolt going through the slot of the adjusting arm.

Are there drain holes in the outer sill lower surface? Will you close the ends of the outer sills so they do not fill with water?

Will you paint the top ball joints on the front suspension or just re-wire brush them?

 

Peter W

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the response Peter. Sorry I took so long to reply - lots of things going on here at the moment!

Some useful advice there and I think that being reminded to go slowly is really important.

TR Enterprises have a good supply of the same batch of paint and will help me with the wings, bonnet, etc. fitting.

Although it's not obvious in the photos, I made another slot in the original dynamo tensioner to accommodate the alternator.

Do you recommend closing the ends of the sills and if so how?

I'm planning to put some paint on the ball joints.

Regards

 

Ian

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Ian, I keep myself enthused by finishing stuff before it’s necessary. I have two beautiful SU carbs with manifold and linkage all finished and screwed to my work bench and it could be two or three years before I need them (by then I might have to re-do some cork washers but I’ll worry about that then) but they’re nice to look at so I rebuilt them. Motor sitting in pieces though.

 

At the stage your car is I’d strap in the fuel tank, with hose, cap, sender, etc. I’d wire rear lights and run the wiring harness in to the tub and leave it there til later. Then put in the hardboard wall that hides the tank and then the carpet. Then put on the hinges and handle and that rod that holds the lid up. When finished It’s a nice place to put stuff too, if you have a messy garage like I do.

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Piggott's Compendium has a nice section on the early factory sequence (pp 38 et. seq.), describing bodies arriving from Mulliners with with floorpans fitted, no front apron, and loosely fitted wings, boot lids, bonnets and doors. Also at this stage the body had upholstery, dash instruments and trim already fitted, with seats and windscreens loose inside. Then at the factory the bodies were given wiring looms and various further small items. The chassis without the drivetrain was built up with brake pipes and fittings and then the chassis was married to the body. Then the rear axle, suspension and brakes were put in, and then the engine with tranny. Then cooling systems came next, and then the front apron, grills, badges and trim.

 

Dan

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Thanks for the responses again.

T Rusty - the colour is Winchester Blue, which is actually a TR3A colour but my wife and I both like it so it went on the 2. I'm trimming the interior in a a Jaguar grey, which I think goes really well. This was a recommendation when I discussed trimming kits with John Skinner.

I know what you mean by keeping the enthusiasm up with completing jobs which actually don't need it for ages, particularly a bit of bling or new paint!

Regards

 

Ian

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