Ian Lucraft Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Forgive me, but I have tried the threads in the forum, and can't quite understand why my new brake light switch has failed. Fitted 2500 miles and 10 months ago. Dot 4 in the system. Power to switch fine. Continuity to lights fine Earths fine. Have got a another spare one from Rimmer and will fit it, but WHY? What should I do? Tempted by the mechanical option.... Thank you to everyone for all the interesting threads which help me get to griops with the car.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Is the brake light switch realy the problem? I would switch on the ignition, pull both cables from the switch and connect them. Does the brake light work or not? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 After losing the brakes on my TR3 when the switch sprung a leak I wouldn't trust an aftermarket switch. I have plugged the port that the switch is fitted to and rigged up a mechanical switch. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Yep. Covered many times before Leave original switch in situ, & connect wires to a push switch on the pedal. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 When my brakes failed Bob it lost the fluid through the switch, I dont know where the switch came from as it was on the car when I got it, but would never trust one again. Thankfully the TR3 handbrake leaver is very long and we have a good washing machine. I actually changed the 5 way union for a 4 way to be sure there was no opportunity for further problems. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Lucraft Posted August 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Thanks all for replies. Bridge the cables and lights come on fine. Seems like mechanical is the answer Ive gone online and bought one Many thanks for confirming what I feared! Best wishes Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 The original switches seem more robust, I have one that appears at least to be very old on my 59 TR3 and still going strong. I don't remember ever changing the one on my other TR3 either. Too bad the new ones are such junk. I have heard the the new ones don't like DOT5, which I've recently put in my system. I wonder if that applies to the old switches too. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Lucraft Posted September 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Its been a while, but thank you for the comments. I have now got the vehicle out of storage (been away and working) and have now fitted a replacement brake switch. I did all the test your guys suggested, and felt it had to be the switch. And it was. Red hot lights. The previous switch had only been in 8 months. But when doing it found lots of sludge in the mastr sylinder from when I bought it. So sucked it all out and replaced with clean. Feels better. Did buy a BMW physical switch you suggested and have put that into store so that if it goes again soon I will try that instead. Thanks to everyone. Best wishes Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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