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Moss Accelerator cable


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Hi Guys,

 

For the second time I have had been let down by an accelerator cable supplied by Moss.

 

The problem occurs when the sleeve attached to the outer cable where it passes through the bulkhead and retains the cable slips and allows the outer cable to slide, thus no accelerator!!

 

The first time this happened I was enjoying an expensive Hill climb event which had to be curtailed. I complained to Moss technical who to be fair provided a replacement which did seem to have a slightly different sleeve. However, it happened again this weekend :angry:

 

A pal is still using an original cable on his 6 for at least 30 years! Anybody else had this problem? My next step will be to get on my trusty lathe and create a locking clamp arrangement instead of the poor crimp arrangement supplied on the Moss cable.

 

Any comment

 

Rich

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Hi PM,

coming your way

 

Roger

 

Hi Guys,

 

For the second time I have had been let down by an accelerator cable supplied by Moss.

 

The problem occurs when the sleeve attached to the outer cable where it passes through the bulkhead and retains the cable slips and allows the outer cable to slide, thus no accelerator!!

 

The first time this happened I was enjoying an expensive Hill climb event which had to be curtailed. I complained to Moss technical who to be fair provided a replacement which did seem to have a slightly different sleeve. However, it happened again this weekend :angry:

 

A pal is still using an original cable on his 6 for at least 30 years! Anybody else had this problem? My next step will be to get on my trusty lathe and create a locking clamp arrangement instead of the poor crimp arrangement supplied on the Moss cable.

 

Any comment

 

Rich

 

Rich,

I am just in the process of replacing mine! For the same reason, but to be fair it is 20+ years old and originally supplied by Moss. My way round it is to use an Ortega clip either side of the brass ferrule. It wont move then! The other point is why do Moss do not use PTFE lined outer casing which seems to be normal practice for all UK made control cables now? My BSA Thunder Bolt has all this type? Then you do not have to worry about lubrication.

 

Bruce.

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Hi Rich,

I can sympathise as I had the same situation approx. 20 years ago in France on the way back to the ferry, fortunately not too far from the port. I approached the Pursers' desk to ask to speak to one of the ships Engineers who, during the channel crossing, made me a little bracket from a bent strip of steel wrapped around the cable ferrule with an M6 bolt and nut through it. Brilliant service. That got me home and the bracket is still in my tool kit in the boot!

 

As for the problem repeating itself I suggest that you are the master of your own downfall. Whilst I agree with everything said about the quality of the replacement parts, it sounds to me as if you haven't adjusted the pedal stop bolt when you fitted the new cable. This is just a long set screw into the back of the pedal with a lock nut to fix it. Can't remember if it's 1/4" unf or 5/16" unf. It should be set so that when the throttle butterflies are fully open the bolt stops against the bulkhead, preventing you putting undue load on the cable ferrule. If that is too short it will enable you to continue pressing down and pulling the ferrule off.

 

Dave McD

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Does the the accelerator pedal have a physical stop, and is it adjusted correctly? Probably it is a long bolt coming out the bulkhead that the pedal will press down to.

This is an issue on early cars as it is quite easy to stamp the loud pedal down and pull the worn throttle rods off their worn ball joints.

Peter W

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Doh! I do understand the idea of the stop screw and it is correctly adjusted. The ferrule can be slid up and down the cable. Clearly the crimping during manufacture to the cable outer sleeve is not good as over time this sleeve relaxes and gives way.

Ian's suggestion above seems like a good plan which I shall follow up on.

Rich

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