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Surrey top fixing again

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#1 monty

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 09:08 PM

Sorry chaps I know it has come up before but cannot immediately get the answer on past topics.
The state of the roads this afternoon made one of the rear Surrey alloy top fixing bolts drop out! Could not locate the thread at side of the road so thought it had stripped but after taking off the top when getting home I found the bolt screwed in perfectly when it was laid on the ground (it would!) but is a real struggle to locate the thread when on the car, as many others have found. I am now going to fit studs to the rear (fronts fit fine). Can somebody who has fitted studs tell me the size & length of stud I would need & where from? What is the best Loctite to use for stud fixing or should they be welded in?
Cheers, thanks & apologies.
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#2 peejay4A

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 09:40 PM

I have this mod on my hard top and also the Surrey. I cannot recall the lengths but it was easy to measure them up. For the Surrey rear bar you need stepped studs as the bar has a small thread, 1/4 UNF I think and the hard top studs are straight 5/16. This is so you can use the same fixings inside the car for both hard top and Surrey. For that I use T bar tube nuts from a Mini rocker cover. No spanners required and a piece cake to start the threads.
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#3 peejay4A

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 09:41 PM

Loctited in. Forgot to mention that.
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#4 peejay4A

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 09:43 PM

Oops. And I ordered them from eBay for pennies.

Please turn editing back on!
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#5 monty

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 10:26 PM

Thanks Pete. Any particular Loctite? Is that strong enough to stop the stud pulling out when you unscrew the tube bar? Any pics?
Cheers.
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#6 Geko

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Posted 10 August 2018 - 04:14 AM

FWIW, I made it hand blot-on with knob

 

 

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#7 monty

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Posted 10 August 2018 - 10:33 AM

I have this mod on my hard top and also the Surrey. I cannot recall the lengths but it was easy to measure them up. For the Surrey rear bar you need stepped studs as the bar has a small thread, 1/4 UNF I think and the hard top studs are straight 5/16. This is so you can use the same fixings inside the car for both hard top and Surrey. For that I use T bar tube nuts from a Mini rocker cover. No spanners required and a piece cake to start the threads.


Thanks again Pete. Incidentally what is your cure for stopping the hardtop from creaking/rattling? Foam rubber or something else?
How tight do you dare make the bolts? My top when not coming loose creaks after a short drive!
Cheers.
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#8 stuart

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Posted 10 August 2018 - 10:40 AM

Thanks again Pete. Incidentally what is your cure for stopping the hardtop from creaking/rattling? Foam rubber or something else?
How tight do you dare make the bolts? My top when not coming loose creaks after a short drive!
Cheers.

A thin rubber shim on the rear frame where the bolts go through helps, and once you have been round the block a few times then an extra tweak on the bolts helps.

Stuart.


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#9 peejay4A

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Posted 10 August 2018 - 06:40 PM

Standard red loctite stud lock in use and they stay put when undoing the T nuts. I do not have any special method for stopping creaks, just the standard seals. Some more as Stuart suggests certainly would not do any harm. The front bolts are always a quandary when tightening. I worry about them coming into contact with the inside of the hardtop. I nip them down from time to time but it is guesswork really.


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#10 stuart

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Posted 11 August 2018 - 03:05 PM

Standard red loctite stud lock in use and they stay put when undoing the T nuts. I do not have any special method for stopping creaks, just the standard seals. Some more as Stuart suggests certainly would not do any harm. The front bolts are always a quandary when tightening. I worry about them coming into contact with the inside of the hardtop. I nip them down from time to time but it is guesswork really.

If you have the distance tubes in the header rail it will lessen the possibility of doing that Peter.

Stuart.


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#11 peejay4A

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Posted 11 August 2018 - 06:53 PM

They are there Stuart but it’s still a nervy process. I’m even more paranoid now since I closed the electric garage door on the roof and had to have it completely refinished.
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#12 monty

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 10:44 AM

They are there Stuart but it’s still a nervy process. I’m even more paranoid now since I closed the electric garage door on the roof and had to have it completely refinished.



Yes Pete I am always worried that they are going to shear or strip the threads! An awful design really.
Cheers.
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#13 stillp

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 11:51 AM

I’m even more paranoid now since I closed the electric garage door on the roof and had to have it completely refinished.

I bought an electric sectional door, after the old up-and-over door swung closed onto the rear of the car, putting a fair sized ding in the tops of both rear wings and the deck sections. Luckily didn't quite reach the boot lid.

 

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#14 peejay4A

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 12:22 PM

Ouch! I had the door opener fob in my pocket and must have squeezed it whilst getting into the car to reverse out of the garage. I will not do that again.
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#15 stillp

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 01:39 PM

I was up a ladder wiring up some extra lights, and must have nudged the door. The car was partly out to make room for the ladder, but I'd been too lazy to move the Ford so I could get the TR all the way out...

 

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#16 monty

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Posted 13 August 2018 - 10:47 AM

Standard red loctite stud lock in use and they stay put when undoing the T nuts. I do not have any special method for stopping creaks, just the standard seals. Some more as Stuart suggests certainly would not do any harm. The front bolts are always a quandary when tightening. I worry about them coming into contact with the inside of the hardtop. I nip them down from time to time but it is guesswork really.




You have a PM Pete.
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