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Steven_nl

bad quality parts and warning about oil hose

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A few months ago the hose form the engine to the oil preasure gauge broke. Lots of oil in front of the driver seat. :o

I ordered a new part from Bastuck in Germany (do not know if this is relevant). We had closed the hole on the engine with an improvised cap. A few weeks ago we did a dash restoration and replaced the broken hose.

Last week we went on a short trip to Germany. On the way I noticed the oil preasure was lower then usual. I checked and it turned out I had lost 2 liters of oil. On close inspection I noticed there was oil coming from between the hose and the small copper pipe that bolts onto the engine. The clamp was not doing a good job. Clearly this is a s*** quality part and it could have cost me my enigine. So watch out when you order it.

 

I was lucky to notice it on time.

 

Where do you get your parts from? I realise most of it comes from China and is complete crap. Is there a difference in suppliers? (Moss, Bastuck, Anglo Parts, Rimmer Bros) Or does it come form the same factory?

Greets

Steven

 

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Hi Steven ~

 

Sorry to hear about your problems.

When I worked in the garage we had an old saying "Sh*t from China is far fetched"!! :lol::lol::lol:

 

Tom.

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Some parts are from the same manufacturers and sold by several suppliers and some are made for individual suppliers, I tend to buy most of my parts from TR Shop who have quite a few parts made for them or on occasion I buy from Moss or Revingtons for some specialist parts and TR Bitz on the odd times when no one else has stock of certain parts. Then for other specialist parts where I know the quality of parts sourced here is going to be suspect I will buy from TRF in the US

Stuart.

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Steven,

Thanks for the heads-up, I just ordered one.

I will pressure test it, and check with soapy water while pressurized before installation.

Regards,

Waldi

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Following my ‘experience’ of oil pouring through the stereo when the sealing washer fell out of the oil pressure tube on reassembly of my dash...... i ordered a replacement braided pipe from Revingtons.

 

This has worked well for several years of ‘enthusiastic’ use and somi recommend it.

 

Steve

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The material used to make the ferrel/nut arrangement is poor. If you over-torque it it just breaks up. It's only 7 bar oil pressure so not much torque required to seal. As suggested, use the Revington braided hose with quality connections.

 

Colin

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Brake master cylinders that fail, rear brake cylinders that leak, rubber boots made of chocolate, oil pipes made of liquorice, front indicator sidelights that fade as you look at them, aluminium water pumps that leak and fur up, steel water pumps that fail-hope this helps Waldi, if I think of any more I will let you know mate 👍

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Stephen,

"there was oil coming from between the hose and the small copper pipe that bolts onto the engine. The clamp was not doing a good job"

 

You don't say what model this was on, but all the oil pressure guages I've seen were connected to the oil gallery by a compression fitting, that either fitted the tube like a brake pipe, or had an 'olive' around the pipe. Yours sound like a a piece of pipe shoved onto a tube, like a water hose, with a jubilee clamp on it. Could work - was there a 'barb' on the tube, or a bead, to engage the clamp? These are needed for a good seal.

 

JOhn

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Revington or Racetorations first call, you pay a little more but at least they work, cheers, Andrew

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Mine's a nylon tube with olive compression fittings like John's- it's worked well for 20+ years. If the engine gallery fitting was made for an olive joint I wouldn't use anything else.

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Stephen,

"there was oil coming from between the hose and the small copper pipe that bolts onto the engine. The clamp was not doing a good job"

 

You don't say what model this was on, but all the oil pressure guages I've seen were connected to the oil gallery by a compression fitting, that either fitted the tube like a brake pipe, or had an 'olive' around the pipe. Yours sound like a a piece of pipe shoved onto a tube, like a water hose, with a jubilee clamp on it. Could work - was there a 'barb' on the tube, or a bead, to engage the clamp? These are needed for a good seal.

 

JOhn

Sorry I do not know the correct English names of the parts. The hose is made of a plastic like transparent material. Bolts look like they are made of copper. The small seal looked like plastic as well Teflon? i could turn the clamp by hand. Could twist the hose right of the copper part. We managed to repair it for now. I'll buy another one or have one made. I just hope I do not need to remove the dashboard again. Hopefully we can attach the hosr to the gauge by removing the ashtray.

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Hi John. I found a good part which is made by Mocar. They seems to be specialists. Thanks for your help

They look the business but have the male fittings got the right thread types?

 

Bruce.

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Has anybody managed to replace the oil pressure guage pipe without removing the dash.... The suggestion is you can get to the back of the guage via the hole once the ash tray is removed and can access the guafe securing bolts?

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You can just about remove the oil gauge without removing anything else. It's very tight but just about OK. There is plenty of slack in the pipe to allow you to tighten it up. Don't forget the the seal.

 

Colin

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