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Brake light switch


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Went out in the 3a today in the beautiful sunshine. Whilst stopped at lights the driver of the car behind told me that my brake lights were not working. Having had a very swift look at all connections I cannot see anything obviously amiss.

I suspect the switch. So my question is in order to test the switch can I just put a link wire across the two terminals and see if the lights then work.

If that is the case and the switch is at fault is it an item that can be opened and cleaned up?

Many thanks,

Tim

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Yes test by linking the the two wires together at the switch.

 

Today's replacement hydraulic brake switches are stated to be of poor quality and do not last. My own replacement switch failed so I simply fitted a mechanical switch (from a BMW/Mercedes) up at the master cylinder - like the one Tom has pictured above. You will then not have to disturb the hydraulic circuit.

 

The cables are long enough to reach, so no wiring mods required.

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

PS This switch type https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pin-White-Housing-Intermotor-Brake-Light-Switch-Rear-Safety-Genuine-OE-Quality-/191419280982?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW%C2%A0

 

Bracket to be created see here https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2016/12/0590/In-the-Garage-Christmas-Edition

More reading on this old subject. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/62260-brake-light-hydrauliqueelectrique-switch/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Blight+%2Bswitch

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Plus 2 They are described as "BMW" but certainly not OE on one ! however they seem to be well made.

I fitted one when my original hydraulic one failed, so it's not just the repros.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-Plastic-2-Pin-Type-Fits-BMW-3-5-6-7-Series-M3-M5-ERA-330046/302334205067?hash=item466485dc8b:g:3vAAAOSwb39bDpYv

 

Bob.

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The issue of In The Garage which Peter has linked to shows fitting to a TR4. Fitting the switch to a 3a is only a little more complicated and is covered here:

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2017/10/0855/In-the-Garage-Autumn-Edition

Edited by Drewmotty
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+1 for what Bob did.

 

An easy fix (I think I had to drill out the hole a bit) and the BMW switch that I bought looks a lot more soild than the plastic ones I've had on other cars before.

 

Charlie.

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Apologies Tom. Can I say “+2” for you…

 

It was simply that when I saw Bob’s post he said:

 

“…Or you do it this way:…”

 

I had not seen Tom’s post, so assumed that Bob’s was different.

 

Charlie.

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I also forgot that Tom did his the same way (& probably before I did mine !) I was just reacting to the complicated way shown in the previous post .

 

Bob.

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What's happen to "EDIT" ? I was going to add that yes, you do have to open up the hole to take the new switch.

 

Bob.

 

Hi Bob (and All),

 

Wayne has temporarily disabled "edit" because of a serious discussion going on elsewhere on the Forum. Unfortunately, edit cannot be disabled in either a specific thread or section of the Forum (the software doesn't provide that facility) - it has to be the whole Forum.

 

I'm happy to make any edits you need - moderators still have the facility. Let me know.

 

Cheers,

Tim

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Many thanks for all the input as usual.

Job done courtesy of a £5 Volvo switch from my local car accessory shop.

Many thanks,

Tim

 

post-14286-0-95142600-1533649233_thumb.jpg

post-14286-0-81804800-1533649247_thumb.jpg

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One thing to be careful of when fitting a switch like that on a sidescreen car is to make sure that the master cylinder returns completely to rest otherwise you will find the brakes sticking on slightly.

Stuart.

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Have just checked that now and all is good.

Thanks for pointing it out though.

Tim

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