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steering wheel coupling (rubber with 4 bolts) replacement


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#1 earckens

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 02:17 PM

What is the correct procedure to replace this flexible coupling?

 

I have tried to remove the bolts while the coupling sits in place but these bolts seem unmovable, even after some WD40 spraying.

 

I know I have to undo the locking wiring but I wanted to try and move these bolts just to see if some movement would be possible without undoing these wires but not even one degree of turning seems possible.

 

Thanks for your assistance!

Erik

 

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#2 earckens

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 02:33 PM

After some makeshift blocking of the steering axis turning I do get movement, but the torque with which these bolts had been set seems incredibly high!

 

Any idea how much torque is needed to fasten these bolts?


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#3 RogerH

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 02:46 PM

Hi Erik,

      12 - 14lb/ft    https://app.box.com/...8221f367ea078e2

 

Roger


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Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#4 earckens

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 03:18 PM

Hi Erik,

      12 - 14lb/ft    https://app.box.com/...8221f367ea078e2

 

Roger

That must be about 20Nm, I can tell you this one must have used a ton to tighten them! One of the bolts was so tight it lost the sides in my wrench and I had to use a visegrip on the bolt and a very big wrench key to block the axis. I almost thought I had to use an anglegrinder.


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#5 stillp

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 06:49 PM

Have you given it a good soak with penetrating oil?

 

Pete


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#6 earckens

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 08:17 PM

Yes indeed, thks for the suggestion!

When getting in the new flexible joint I had luckily ordered new bolts and retainer wire. Getting the first 3 bolts in place went fairly reasonable, but the 4th bolt made me sweat like a horse for about one hour! I finally managed with a wrench 13mm headkey simultaneously torqueing in line the bolt with the receiving end, pushing and trying to keep the bolt in place and at the same time slowly trying to get the thread to lock in place.
I wonder how mechanics did that in the "old" times.
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#7 RogerH

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 08:20 PM

Hi Erik,

     the method I employ is get the start thread of the bolt in the hole, lever the bolt in loine with the hle and start to screw in.

The 4th bolt is the hardest but works the same way.

Apprx 10 minutes for the 4.

 

Others use a Jubilee clip to compress the rubber. I have not tried that one.

 

Roger


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Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#8 Z320

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 02:06 AM

I always take a water pump wrench and force it in the correct direction,

that's makes it very easy.

 


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sorry for my grammar and orthography; I´m not native english speaking


#9 Z320

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 02:07 AM

I always take a water pump wrench and force it in the correct direction,

that's makes it very easy.

 

Attached File  P1240692-b.JPG   94.41KB   5 downloads


Edited by Z320, 05 August 2018 - 02:07 AM.

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sorry for my grammar and orthography; I´m not native english speaking


#10 earckens

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 06:34 AM

I always take a water pump wrench and force it in the correct direction,

that's makes it very easy.

 

attachicon.gifP1240692-b.JPG

Great picture! Water pump wrench next on shopping list.


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#11 earckens

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 06:38 AM

Hi Erik,

     the method I employ is get the start thread of the bolt in the hole, lever the bolt in loine with the hle and start to screw in.

(...)

Well that is what took one hour sweating to learn and execute; next time (if ever?) will be faster but I doubt I manage in 10' B)


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#12 Z320

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 07:43 AM

You will be faster
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#13 ianc

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 08:03 AM

At Malvern a few years ago, I watched Carl Kidell and Neil Revington fit a new rubber to steering.  A big jubilee clip went round the rubber, was tightened, and the bolts went into position very easily.

Yet another of the clever tricks employed by the experts.

Ian Cornish


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#14 Z320

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 09:11 AM

Hi Erik,
I strongly want to recomrnd the trademark KNIPEX with their adjusting mechanism.
# 87 01 250 as a standard AND
# 86 03 250 for nuts and think to get no marks on their surface,
also good for bending an re-bend tin metal, wires and to press thinks flat.
Smaller and larger sizes are also availbble

DO NOT BOTHER THE PRICE, they will serve you, your children and grand children for your/ their live time.

Ciao Marco
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sorry for my grammar and orthography; I´m not native english speaking


#15 Z320

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 09:28 AM

Sorry, double again, something goes wrong with my IPhone

Edited by Z320, 05 August 2018 - 09:30 AM.

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#16 TR 2100

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 10:33 AM

Jubilee clip works a treat.

 

AlanR


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#17 Rockie51

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Posted 06 August 2018 - 06:39 AM

Replace them with metal ones from the TR6 top and bottom. Big improvement in steering feel and much easier to install. 


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#18 Z320

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Posted 06 August 2018 - 05:07 PM

Down on the steering rack I use the TR6 item with u-joint,
on the upper rubber one is my hope that it will brake in the case of an accident.

Edited by Z320, 06 August 2018 - 05:40 PM.

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#19 earckens

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 04:22 AM

Replace them with metal ones from the TR6 top and bottom. Big improvement in steering feel and much easier to install. 

TR6 upper is flexible joint too? https://www.moss-eur...umns-tr5-6.html


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