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Everco heater valve


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Hi Folks,

a sad day today. The Everco valve arrived from the US (well done RockAuto). But it means the end to my homemade valve.

Gone is the copper piping and the washing machine service valve.

 

I was amazed at what I had to remove.

Firstly remove the old valve

Remove rear outboard head nut and stud

Fit the elbow

Fit the valve.

Adjust the heater valve cable. My cable is on the right hand side of the H frame as per the TR6.

A new cable would have to be cut back to length. Mine need a little adjustment.

I used the 'ring' cable terminal to fit over the valve operating pin. Note - I have change it for Niall's chocolate block terminal.

I have just realised that I'm sure it should be soldered to the solid wire (oops)

 

Fit the rubber heater pipe.

I have a new green pipe but decided to use some very fancy black Concorde piping (I wonder where that came from).

 

Operating is as smooth as the knob will allow - with its ball/detent positioning.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Well done, I hope you did not cook too much in the sunshine.

Will we be seeing the 'homemade valve ...of copper piping and the washing machine service valve.' on the BST as a memento to keeping a TR going?

 

Peter W

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Hi Jim,

in a word - yes!!

I do not know what sort of fight the correct green pipe would put up but my Concorde pipe varies with speed :P is quite pliable.

 

I have heard that it will go on though - a little heat and soapy water.

 

Roger

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Would this valve work? By that I mean will pressing the cable in completely shut off the water flow?

No matter how I adjusted the cable to a new standard valve some years ago, I cannot get it to shut off (I am doing it manually / on the valve itself on hot days like these) which is a bit annoying.

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Hi Folks,

a sad day today. The Everco valve arrived from the US (well done RockAuto). But it means the end to my homemade valve.

Gone is the copper piping and the washing machine service valve.

 

I was amazed at what I had to remove.

Firstly remove the old valve

Remove rear outboard head nut and stud

Fit the elbow

Fit the valve.

Adjust the heater valve cable. My cable is on the right hand side of the H frame as per the TR6.

A new cable would have to be cut back to length. Mine need a little adjustment.

I used the 'ring' cable terminal to fit over the valve operating pin. Note - I have change it for Niall's chocolate block terminal.

I have just realised that I'm sure it should be soldered to the solid wire (oops)

 

Fit the rubber heater pipe.

I have a new green pipe but decided to use some very fancy black Concorde piping (I wonder where that came from).

 

Operating is as smooth as the knob will allow - with its ball/detent positioning.

 

Roger

 

Roger

 

Did it fit into the elbow OK?

 

John

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Hi John,

it went in 2+ full turns there is a BSP/NTP mismatch but ti works. I used PTFE tape, others use liquid PTFE.

 

The only complication is that you need to remove the rear offside head nut and stud and rocker cover..

 

Roger

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  • 4 years later...

Surely with fitting this valve (a winter job for me) onto the original elbow you only need to remove the PCV valve and battery to gain some space for removing and threading the new valve on ?   I can't see why you would have to remove the head stud and rocker cover.  Please advise if i'm wrong.

A further question is whether the old valve unscrews easily after 50 years as i'm concerned it may snap.  Should I heat the elbow to help free the threaded contact area ?

Paul  

 

 

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Hi Paul,

removing/fitting the valve may not require the nut removal but the elbow is another issue.

Quite often, as you will find, the valve threaded stem will break off.

It may be possible to clean the elbow thread insitu - but nobody is that lucky.

 

Roger

 

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19 minutes ago, John Morrison said:

IMG_0309.jpg.a91a681120ff28bac01eb99f51d02321.jpgIMG_0311.jpg.ffc86b7bb9e447dc2f136c3ed02ed45d.jpg

Or buy a simple hydraulic elbow, for  a few pounds, think the valve lies

so much better like this.

John.

Better idea.

That’s a TX1 from T7 not an Everco.

https://www.t7design.co.uk/tx1-heater-valve-16mm-5-8-push-to-close-1bd-84d-28c.html

Only Challenge is the 5/8 spigots.

 

image.jpeg

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59 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Better idea.

That’s a TX1 from T7 not an Everco.

https://www.t7design.co.uk/tx1-heater-valve-16mm-5-8-push-to-close-1bd-84d-28c.html

Only Challenge is the 5/8 spigots.

 

image.jpeg

Ive done that on a 3a to allow heater control inside the car.

Stuart.

 

photo1359 - Copy.jpg

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Fitting the TR6 straight adapter pipe with the Everco valve ( already bought) might be the route if the existing elbow breaks, or the existing valve breaks in its removal.  If the elbow does snap what’s the process for getting the remains out?   Planning for the worst to minimise time off the road.

Paul

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Sorry Roger I misunderstood your earlier comment.   So the heater valve may indeed snap at the thread.  If the elbow then has to be removed from the cylinder head to clear out the female thread, how easy is it to get off as that may be 55 years in situ.  How do you grip it to unscrew it from the head with it being angled, and would heating that part of the head help?

Paul

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Hi Paul,

few things are straight forward.

To remove the elbow I think you only need the CH nut removing.

To unscrew the elbow - use a stout screwdriver down its hole and lever around. If that does no good then  a pair of plumbers Stilson's should do the job.

I suppose the elbow could be seized in the CH (iron + iron is a good recipe).

You would need to drill out most of the remnants and pick the  thread out - very tedious.

If the elbow appears seized then consider drilling out the valve remnants and clearing these threads - much easier.

 

Roger

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