ntc Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 Nope not even close Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 I'm asking Neil NTC our learned friend for the second time if he can impart his knowledge as to how these boot seals were fitted. If I knew how things were fitted and someone asked me I would answer them not ignore them and I would not play guessing games with them-I would be classed as a strange man for doing such things now wouldn't I? Over to you Neil NTC how are the boot seals fitted I've asked nicely. Thank you Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 On 1/9/2020 at 9:05 AM, RogerH said: Hi Neil, I have never been in one but I've been behind many and they are all rather smelly. Roger The long duration CP cam is responsible for the high smelly factor, speaking from experience with one and with an even longer duration KENT TH2. I run Webers so have dialed them in as lean as they'll go ( no soot on bumper at all ) and they definitely smell much more than the emissions engines or the TR2,3,4 stock specification engines ever did. At idle the smoke is visible in the sunlight with my concourse engine which has a very high lift, 292 degree duration cam. Both of my cars are Michelotti with fixed rear screens and somewhat extended tailpipes. The TR5/6 tailpipe often terminates forward of the bumper and can do with a few inches of extra length. Anyway, mine have no smell in the cockpit despite standard boot seals with their attendant gaps here and there. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 Interesting Topic...When I did my first Sprint meeting in 1976 the Scrutineer insisted I fitted a metal firewall between the Tank and the cockpit, I made it out of a sheet of Aluminium and it's still in place to this day. I never thought about the fumes aspect! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 5 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said: I'm asking Neil NTC our learned friend for the second time if he can impart his knowledge as to how these boot seals were fitted. If I knew how things were fitted and someone asked me I would answer them not ignore them and I would not play guessing games with them-I would be classed as a strange man for doing such things now wouldn't I? Over to you Neil NTC how are the boot seals fitted I've asked nicely. Thank you Michael Michael Sorry only just seen your post, when you get nearer to fitting the seal pm me with a contact number and I will help you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Markus Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 Thanks Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) I used a thin cord inserted into the new rubber channel , only needed at the rear edge of the boot in my case to make a good seal like Kevo_6 suggested. However I would also be interested to know the method ntc Neil has, come on Neil share with the group. Phil Edited January 15, 2020 by Phil H 4 correction to text Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 A couple of things I noted on my car: 1) While I fitted my rear lock today, I noted an annular gap between the chrome lock push thing and the rear valence, this is a direct leak path to the luggage area. Will see if I can properly seal it, maybe with an O-ring or some folded rubber sheet. 2) After fitting the lock, I could still move the lid up, but the lid is flush with the rear wings, so the lock (the part screwed in the boot lid) needs adjusting (downwards); this will avoid the lid to lift up, creating a large gap for gas to enter the boot, for example on a bumpy road. 3) The seal should be “compressed” a bit between boot lid and body for proper sealing, mine does not at all; more thinking ahead... Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 4 hours ago, Waldi said: A couple of things I noted on my car: 1) While I fitted my rear lock today, I noted an annular gap between the chrome lock push thing and the rear valence, this is a direct leak path to the luggage area. Will see if I can properly seal it, maybe with an O-ring or some folded rubber sheet. 2) After fitting the lock, I could still move the lid up, but the lid is flush with the rear wings, so the lock (the part screwed in the boot lid) needs adjusting (downwards); this will avoid the lid to lift up, creating a large gap for gas to enter the boot, for example on a bumpy road. 3) The seal should be “compressed” a bit between boot lid and body for proper sealing, mine does not at all; more thinking ahead... Waldi You have pm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 Thank you Neil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 4 hours ago, Waldi said: A couple of things I noted on my car: 1) While I fitted my rear lock today, I noted an annular gap between the chrome lock push thing and the rear valence, this is a direct leak path to the luggage area. Will see if I can properly seal it, maybe with an O-ring or some folded rubber sheet. 2) After fitting the lock, I could still move the lid up, but the lid is flush with the rear wings, so the lock (the part screwed in the boot lid) needs adjusting (downwards); this will avoid the lid to lift up, creating a large gap for gas to enter the boot, for example on a bumpy road. 3) The seal should be “compressed” a bit between boot lid and body for proper sealing, mine does not at all; more thinking ahead... Waldi That's a good observation Waldi! Neoprene foam or similar comes to mind. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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