vincent52 Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 hi all, new fuel pump(trshop) new pipe/union/nut/olive/flex hose/clips still leaks from pump inlet nut have no hair to tear out! help!!! or do I buy an mx5? frustrated of Milton Keynes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Dear frustrated of Milton Keys ~ Buy an Austin Healey 3000! Seriously though why not try wrapping the joint with plumbers tape ~ it worked for me. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vincent52 Posted July 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 wallet not full enough for healy! but will try ptfe tape thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Seriously though why not try wrapping the joint with plumbers tape ~ it worked for me. Tom. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Should not be necessary, but if you do, wrap it around the olive, not the thread. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Liquid ptfe might do a better job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 My best conversion was to fit an SU electric petrol pump. Instant starting at all times. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 I had a leak like this where the feed to the carbs leaves the pump. It was caused by the olive only resting right on the end of the tube and not in a length of pipe. I fitted an adapter and the copper slid further in with the olive further along the pipe. It was then able to grip properly and no more leaks . However the pipe already has a tight bend at this point, where it leaves the pump, and fitting the adapter makes the bend tighter but still possible. I have a 'fridge water supply pipe which just fits inside the copper pipe and helps when bending. I tried a few times before it worked. I think the adapter was supplied by the pump repair shop, Dave Davies, and was originally intended for use in a different location. It did not cost much and has worked for years. Keep trying, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 I never use PTFE tape on threads that could get into the engine and plug oilways. That’s not going to happen with a fuel line, of course. But I’m still not crazy about the idea. It seems to be kind of a “duct tape” solution and not a root cause fix. As Richard notes and Bob implies, if the olive is the right size and adjusted properly, the line should seal leak free. Anything else is sweeping the real problem under the rug, IMO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 +1 Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Liquid PTFE works. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 If you are in emergency situation, or can not wait for an adapter in the post, you could use Heldtite jointing compound 020 8577 9157 which is made for the Automotive and the Aircraft industries. It is proof against petrol, diesel, transmission oils , paraffin, gas and water. I used it to seal the banjo bolts on the SU H6 and it worked as instructed. Give it a try? Good luck, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vincent52 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 thanks to all for your ideas will try this week to fettle the b=/\*+r!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobTR3 Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 +1 for post 8. It's a similar issue with the feed from the fuel tank. The fuel pipe needs to go through the Boss into the tank (but not too much) in order for the olive to get a firm seating. The olive will not seal properly if it's right at the end of the pipe. I haven't done a fuel pump olive so not sure how far in the copper pipe will go into the pump, if at all. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 I used to have the same problem until I realised as Rob says that the pipe needs to go in as far as possible. The last time I refitted a pump I put a new olive (of the correct size and profile!!) loose on the pipe which I pushed fully in before tightening the nut to clamp the olive firmly in place. It's also essential to make sure the end of the pipe is cut square and filed clean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Use the adaptor and it will be leak proof for years. There is no drilling in the pump to allow the olive to be anywhere except on the very end of the tube. Good luck Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vincent52 Posted August 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 hi all, update on the fuel leak saga, it turns out that the new pump from the tr shop was duff new one from rimmer bros now on and all is well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 I had a leak like this where the feed to the carbs leaves the pump. It was caused by the olive only resting right on the end of the tube and not in a length of pipe. I fitted an adapter and the copper slid further in with the olive further along the pipe. It was then able to grip properly and no more leaks . However the pipe already has a tight bend at this point, where it leaves the pump, and fitting the adapter makes the bend tighter but still possible. I have a 'fridge water supply pipe which just fits inside the copper pipe and helps when bending. I tried a few times before it worked. I think the adapter was supplied by the pump repair shop, Dave Davies, and was originally intended for use in a different location. It did not cost much and has worked for years. Keep trying, Richard Off topic slightly - I have a larger one of these adaptors screwed into my thermostat housing. It means I can remove the thermometer bulb from the thermo housing without damage. Cost was minimal compared to a repaired temperature gauge and capillary. Here you go, they are for sale commercially in the TR world. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8155/name/adaptor-male-female-brass Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Off topic slightly - I have a larger one of these adaptors screwed into my thermostat housing. It means I can remove the thermometer bulb from the thermo housing without damage. Cost was minimal compared to a repaired temperature gauge and capillary. Here you go, they are for sale commercially in the TR world. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8155/name/adaptor-male-female-brass Peter W Cracking idea Peter, I recently had this problem, I had to remove the housing from the cylinder head and then put it in an old saucepan of diesel (in the engine bay and still attached to the capillary) to soak for a couple of days until I could free it off. It had only been on for a couple of years but had managed to attach itself pretty well. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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