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I had a leak like this where the feed to the carbs leaves the pump. It was caused by the olive only resting right on the end of the tube and not in a length of pipe. I fitted an adapter and the copper slid further in with the olive further along the pipe. It was then able to grip properly and no more leaks . However the pipe already has a tight bend at this point, where it leaves the pump, and fitting the adapter makes the bend tighter but still possible. I have a 'fridge water supply pipe which just fits inside the copper pipe and helps when bending. I tried a few times before it worked.

I think the adapter was supplied by the pump repair shop, Dave Davies, and was originally intended for use in a different location.

 

It did not cost much and has worked for years.

 

Keep trying, Richard

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I never use PTFE tape on threads that could get into the engine and plug oilways. That’s not going to happen with a fuel line, of course.

 

But I’m still not crazy about the idea. It seems to be kind of a “duct tape” solution and not a root cause fix. As Richard notes and Bob implies, if the olive is the right size and adjusted properly, the line should seal leak free. Anything else is sweeping the real problem under the rug, IMO.

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If you are in emergency situation, or can not wait for an adapter in the post, you could use Heldtite jointing compound 020 8577 9157 which is made for the Automotive and the Aircraft industries. It is proof against petrol, diesel, transmission oils , paraffin, gas and water.

 

I used it to seal the banjo bolts on the SU H6 and it worked as instructed.

 

Give it a try? Good luck,

 

Richard

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+1 for post 8.

 

It's a similar issue with the feed from the fuel tank. The fuel pipe needs to go through the Boss into the tank (but not too much) in order for the olive to get a firm seating. The olive will not seal properly if it's right at the end of the pipe.

 

I haven't done a fuel pump olive so not sure how far in the copper pipe will go into the pump, if at all.

 

Rob

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I used to have the same problem until I realised as Rob says that the pipe needs to go in as far as possible. The last time I refitted a pump I put a new olive (of the correct size and profile!!) loose on the pipe which I pushed fully in before tightening the nut to clamp the olive firmly in place. It's also essential to make sure the end of the pipe is cut square and filed clean.

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Use the adaptor and it will be leak proof for years. There is no drilling in the pump to allow the olive to be anywhere except on the very end of the tube.

 

Good luck

 

Richard

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I had a leak like this where the feed to the carbs leaves the pump. It was caused by the olive only resting right on the end of the tube and not in a length of pipe. I fitted an adapter and the copper slid further in with the olive further along the pipe. It was then able to grip properly and no more leaks . However the pipe already has a tight bend at this point, where it leaves the pump, and fitting the adapter makes the bend tighter but still possible. I have a 'fridge water supply pipe which just fits inside the copper pipe and helps when bending. I tried a few times before it worked.

I think the adapter was supplied by the pump repair shop, Dave Davies, and was originally intended for use in a different location.

 

It did not cost much and has worked for years.

 

Keep trying, Richard

 

Off topic slightly - I have a larger one of these adaptors screwed into my thermostat housing. It means I can remove the thermometer bulb from the thermo housing without damage. Cost was minimal compared to a repaired temperature gauge and capillary.

 

Here you go, they are for sale commercially in the TR world. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8155/name/adaptor-male-female-brass

 

Peter W

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Off topic slightly - I have a larger one of these adaptors screwed into my thermostat housing. It means I can remove the thermometer bulb from the thermo housing without damage. Cost was minimal compared to a repaired temperature gauge and capillary.

 

Here you go, they are for sale commercially in the TR world. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8155/name/adaptor-male-female-brass

 

Peter W

Cracking idea Peter,

 

I recently had this problem, I had to remove the housing from the cylinder head and then put it in an old saucepan of diesel (in the engine bay and still attached to the capillary) to soak for a couple of days until I could free it off. It had only been on for a couple of years but had managed to attach itself pretty well.

 

Rgds Ian

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