Robert Price Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Just a thought as micro bore 8mm is a good fit with 5/16ths pipe. Having struggled to achieve tight bends I found some 90 deg micro bore heating fittings which if used would be an easy and accurate way for routing, not at the engine end but at the rear. Does anyone know if plumbing solder is ok with petrol, they are used on domestic oil tanks but mainly compression fittings. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Personally I wouldn’t use soldered joints as a petrol fire will melt the solder. Compression fittings no problem. Also vibration will compromise a soldered joint over time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 +1 DaveN. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 I have had soldered copper pipe on an old motor cycle (AJS), it did not fail, and if it had failed, I would have noticed in an early stage (it ran from tank to carburettor with a pig tail), but Dave makes a good point. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Personally I wouldn’t use soldered joints as a petrol fire will melt the solder. Compression fittings no problem. Also vibration will compromise a soldered joint over time. +1 Either silver solder or failing that, compression fittings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Plumbing solder should be chemically OK with petrol . . Fire wouldn't concern me as I have a fair amount of rubber pipe already in my fuel lines. I would be concerned about vibration cracking soldered joints , it's happened to me with fuel tanks in the past , Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Pipe benders were done to death once before. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/?_nkw=8mm+pipe+bender&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds= Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Get yourself a pipe bender. Extra fittings introduce extra potential leak points, restrict flow and they look ugly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Are any of the pipe benders in the link actually 5/16 or only a close metric equivalent. I have a 6,8,10mm pipe bender and mu 5/16th pipe goes flat on the tight corners. My plumber tells me that the metric equivalent will not work properly. Please post a link to a real 5/16th bender, Made in UK if possible Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Are any of the pipe benders in the link actually 5/16 or only a close metric equivalent. I have a 6,8,10mm pipe bender and mu 5/16th pipe goes flat on the tight corners. My plumber tells me that the metric equivalent will not work properly. Please post a link to a real 5/16th bender, Made in UK if possible Thanks https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/?_nkw=5/16+pipe+bender&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds= Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robert Price Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 The problem with a pipe bender I have found is one 90 deg is fine but if you want a bend in another direction close to it the pipe will not fit into the tool/ Robl. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Ugly? Who is closely inspecting your cars' undersides, unless you intend to invert it in ditch? The point about the tool not fitting bends close together is correct, but so is fitting a longer, bent tube into the car. What will go around one obstruction is impeded by the next. It's like fitting a corkscrew into a a straight tube. This is the advantage of compression fittings, that allow you to make a shorter section, insert it in line and connect, and go on to the next bend. It's what I have on my Pi Vitesse, and risking the god's disapproval has never leaked a drop. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 The pipe bending tools are for doing simple bends quickly and successfully. If you need two bends close together or a large bend then you simply put your engineering hat on and do it. Comp fittings will work (if done properly) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lightningburns Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Hi Rob, As per your original question, I think you will find that most if not all modern plumbing solders and pre soldered (yorkshire) fittings are lead free and more brittle, there is a possibility that they could crack under long term vibration depending on the length of join overlap, the old lead stuff was much more resiliant although would still require a reasonable contact area, unlike a pipe joined into a petrol tank which would in my opinion not have sufficient joint contact area. The quality of copper joints these days also varies, some being very loose and thin. I would go for pipe bender anyway and if you do not have proper lead solder and quality bends then compression joints. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robert Price Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thank you everyone for comments, I think a compression joint will be worth a try having ruined one kit pipe, and made a second fit but not happy with it, I would only keep thinking about it, so I will give it a try. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coops Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 Hi, I have found that using compression fittings with copper pipe it’s much better to use copper olives. The fittings usually tend to come with brass, which because it’s harder means any movement of the copper pipe immediately leads to a loose joint. The brass olives work perfectly on steel pipe. I became aware of this issue when investigating piping up gas many years ago. Unfortunately getting copper olives isn’t as easy as it should be, particularly imperial sizes. Hopefully 8mm would be ok. Regards Coops. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Coops said: Hi, I have found that using compression fittings with copper pipe it’s much better to use copper olives. The fittings usually tend to come with brass, which because it’s harder means any movement of the copper pipe immediately leads to a loose joint. The brass olives work perfectly on steel pipe. I became aware of this issue when investigating piping up gas many years ago. Unfortunately getting copper olives isn’t as easy as it should be, particularly imperial sizes. Hopefully 8mm would be ok. Regards Coops. You can make your own, a small section of the next size up copper pipe (1/4")slid onto your chosen pipe then do the fitting up results in a good copper olive. Stuart. Edited January 12, 2023 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coops Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 Sounds like a plan! Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenrow Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 If you think copper olives are the fix try ebay....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted January 13, 2023 Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 For fuel I would always use a flexible pipe either rubber or steel braded of correct meterial. One long run without joins and proper connections either end. Note E5 / E10 compatibility too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 14, 2023 Report Share Posted January 14, 2023 I'm working on my stag at the mo and it has nylon piping from front to back. Not seen this before. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 14, 2023 Report Share Posted January 14, 2023 1 hour ago, Tim D. said: I'm working on my stag at the mo and it has nylon piping from front to back. Not seen this before. Tim Correct. Triumph used that type of main fuel line on cars of that era including the 2.5PI Not ever used on a TR though. I did sell a few Triumph made 2.5PI nylon tubes to TR owners. It had the metal fittings for tank/PRV and MU already installed, so no need for the rubber hose in the engine bay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 14, 2023 Report Share Posted January 14, 2023 21 hours ago, Richard Pope said: For fuel I would always use a flexible pipe either rubber or steel braded of correct meterial. One long run without joins and proper connections either end. Note E5 / E10 compatibility too. Not good run under a car, Hard lines are much safer. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted January 14, 2023 Report Share Posted January 14, 2023 4 hours ago, stuart said: Not good run under a car, Hard lines are much safer. Stuart. Depends where you route them - would not expose them to places where they can be damaged. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted January 14, 2023 Report Share Posted January 14, 2023 I'm surprised that the MOT inspector hasn't made negative comments about using rubber fuel lines for the full run under the car. I was even made to change plastic cable ties that were locating copper fuel lines for steel ones when my MG T series went through an inspection in Holland. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.