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My TR4's door restraints are causing me a problem in that sometimes they fit and sometimes not.

This seems to depend on which way the wind is blowing but in all probability it may be a function of how much load the car has, hence the amount of flex on the body/chassis.

These things don't seem to have any way of adjusting them at all other than adding and subtracting packs etc- unlike the doors they are fitted to where there is ample scope for moving things around.

Am I right- is this really a bit of a pig in a poke?

Should I forget all about them?

James

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I wouldn’t go without them as they’re a safety feature. I’ve not needed to adjust mine since I fitted them >5years ago. They seemed to fit right first time. Stuart will know.

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If they don't fit, then either your door, or the door aperture, is wrong. If they sometimes fit then the door aperture must be changing, which suggests something seriously wrong with the chassis.

 

Pete

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Alan's suggestion + 1.... as a first step.

If you push it in with a finger , it should snap back with spring pressure. Found mine were " solid " when I did my resto. A transformation once cleaned ( easier off the car , mark position with masking tape ) , degunk , lubricate and replace.

Bob

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AlanR and Bob are correct, and it was one of the points included in the TR Basic Maintenance document Tony Sheach and I wrote and which was included as a pull-out section in TR Action 273 (March 2014). Here's what I wrote then:

I have never seen mention in the Manuals of the door restraint (anti-burst) mechanism on the doors fitted from TR4 onwards. If the slider inside the casting mounted on the B Post is not lubricated occasionally, but sparingly, it becomes increasingly difficult to close the door. Ease a small screwdriver behind the spring-loaded slider and squirt a lubricant, such as WD40, into the gap. Then work the slider back and forth so that it slides easily. Wipe away the inevitable over-spill on the B post!

 

I don't favour removal of the mechanism, perhaps because the screws are so tight that I cannot undo them, and the method I have described works.

 

Ian Cornish

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WD40 isn't really a lubricant, nor a replacement for PlusGas etc.

Indeed it does help free up things and is slippery for a short while.

 

It does help to flush out old solidified grease/oil.

 

Use a decent thin oil that will last a reasonable time.

3-in-1 or simply 20/50 - this will give long term effectiveness.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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If you have them randomly fitting then as stated above you need to have a very good look elsewhere to find whats moving as in theory they are two fixed points when the door is shut and they should align pretty much perfectly, they can be shimmed to get them aligned better if the car has been rebuilt or a change of door has happened but there is virtually no adjustment on them so the fit must be correct for them to work properly. You do also need to make sure that the cup shaped shakeproof washers are fitted or they will come loose very easily.

Stuart.

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My TR4's door restraints are causing me a problem in that sometimes they fit and sometimes not.

This seems to depend on which way the wind is blowing but in all probability it may be a function of how much load the car has, hence the amount of flex on the body/chassis.

These things don't seem to have any way of adjusting them at all other than adding and subtracting packs etc- unlike the doors they are fitted to where there is ample scope for moving things around.

Am I right- is this really a bit of a pig in a poke?

Should I forget all about them?

James

Hi James,

you do have the nylon guide and peg fitted to item 48

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr4-4a.html

 

This allows items #54 to locate properly

 

Roger

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Hi James,

you do have the nylon guide and peg fitted to item 48

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr4-4a.html

 

This allows items #54 to locate properly

 

Roger

Or the pin on the door latch item 34, the impact when the twonk hit the side of my 4a destroyed that and it does guide the door into place.

Stuart.

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Yep. Nylon guide etc are new and in place. I agree, the alignment here is critical and yes, they do slide into one another but there is a tiny amount of deflection somewhere that means that sliding-in varies. I'll look at the body mounting immediately beneath the B post and check all is tight. The chassis is sound but I do believe with the sections as designed there is some flex in every chassis. Yes/No?

The thing is as the tongue slides in it gets ever tighter as it closes so its absolutely solid- which is fine, but that seems to vary a little- I'm talking a mm or so here, not 10mm.

J.

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Hi James,

that anti-burst tongue/socket is quite clever.

When you shut the door it pushes the spring loaded plunger backwards. This will feel tight.

 

When you are driving, the flex in the body causes the tongue/socket to rattle.

 

However as the gap widens the spring pushes the tongue into the increasing gap, making tight again.

So after a very short distance the door should be quite stable.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Gosh! I didn't realise Triumph were that clever!

Good to know that someone else has got flex in his body- my TR has more as it ages- I have less.

Much less. In fact it's not only working out how to do any job below waist level- I'm now planning which tools to take with me when I bend down. :wacko:

J.

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