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iani

Update on my PI issues

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As I've been posting, I have had trouble with my car ever since a Garage fitted an engine and reconditioned PI kit. Thanks to the tremendous advice I have received on here, I got to the point where my car would idle at 950 RPM cold and around 1050 RPM hot, after blipping the throttle to get it to drop a bit! I then borrowed an inlet manifold setting tool, on trying to fit this, it was apparent that the three manifolds are not aligned at all well, I sent photographic evidence to the garage and my car is now back with them and they will refit the system once again.

 

Unfortunately, on stopping the car at their premises, the cooling system pressurised, it did the same yesterday, I now suspect the HG is on its way out, more expense. On the plus side, I have the head from my original engine and can use that in exchange, it also means I can junk the external oil feed I currently have to use to get round a blocked oilway. Now I just have to find a stage 2 head that's available in a reasonable timeframe.

 

Thanks to all of you who have given me advice with my problems thus far.

 

Ian

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What makes you think the HG is on its way out? The cooling system may just need a good flush. Do you have an engine driven fan or electric? What rad cap is fitted? Thermostat?

Simple things first!!

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What makes you think the HG is on its way out? The cooling system may just need a good flush. Do you have an engine driven fan or electric? What rad cap is fitted? Thermostat?

Simple things first!!

Correct & new 7lbs cap

I flushed the system last week

I have a revotec puller fan fitted which is working correctly

I have an 82C 'stat which appears to be working correctly

 

On the road, the temperature gauge sits below half way, the electric fan rarely comes on, certainly not when moving. On shutting the engine down, the coolant rushes back into the radiator after a few mins, overflows into the bottle and then spits out due to the bottle capacity being exceeded. This is a new development, I haven't had this issue previously.

 

Ian

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Ok with it cold remove the cap and fill the rad refit the cap then empty the bottle and just put in say about a quarter pint and try that.

One other thing you say it’s been flushed did you remove the block drain and rake it out?i poked the pressure washer in there!

I also disconnected the rad hoes from the heater valve and back flushed it with mains water pressure..... leave the rad cap off for those items though!

 

Dave

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Couple of other things....not sure if it’s been mentioned already is the ignition timing correct? And fan belt adjustment?

Is the rad cap correct in that it vents coolant into the bottle and as the ngine cools it draws it back in. So the cap should have two seals.

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Hi Ian,

Had the exact same behavour and sadly it was a HGF.

Tim

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Ian,

is the thermostat installed with the spring facing downwards? It fits both ways, should be with spring facing down.

Apologies for asking, if so, just smile about this comment.

Waldi

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Ok with it cold remove the cap and fill the rad refit the cap then empty the bottle and just put in say about a quarter pint and try that.

One other thing you say it’s been flushed did you remove the block drain and rake it out?i poked the pressure washer in there!

I also disconnected the rad hoes from the heater valve and back flushed it with mains water pressure..... leave the rad cap off for those items though!

 

Dave

The block drain is blocked solid, no amount of prodding had any effect whatsoever, the car has just started dumping coolant though, it wasn't doing this before.

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Couple of other things....not sure if it’s been mentioned already is the ignition timing correct? And fan belt adjustment?

Is the rad cap correct in that it vents coolant into the bottle and as the ngine cools it draws it back in. So the cap should have two seals.

The cap has two seals Dave, it's a reasonably new one from Moss. The fan belt seems fine to me.

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Ian,

is the thermostat installed with the spring facing downwards? It fits both ways, should be with spring facing down.

Apologies for asking, if so, just smile about this comment.

Waldi

I'm smiling Waldi :D

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Hi Ian,

Had the exact same behavour and sadly it was a HGF.

Tim

Thanks Tim, the last time I changed a head must have been in the early 90's, having been quoted 10hrs labour I guess I'll be doing it again soon enough.

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I hope Waldi's right. My cylinder head is pretty much irreplaceable, having been developed with the car over the past 50 odd years , so I'd be very reluctant to replace it.

 

If you still suspect a blown head gasket have you tried something like this to confirm it:

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwja46HivqHcAhUJuaQKHcKYD44QFjACegQIAxAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fliquidintelligence.com.au%2Fproducts%2Fblown-head-gasket-test-kits&usg=AOvVaw0frh-aASkIm58jdlrdiFMo

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Isn't it a 13lb cap on the TR6?

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Thought so. A 7lb cap has caused boil ups on TR6s in other threads.

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I think you will find that 7lb early TR6 to 72, CP75000?, GRC112. 13lb late, GRC114, yes the 13lb will raise the boiling point slightly and are often retro fitted anyway, but it should not boil over with a 7lb.

Having said that it would raise the boiling point by about 15 degrees F, so if it was me I would put on a 13lb cap and see if it cures it, well worth the expense !

 

Regards,

 

John

Edited by lightningburns

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"Boiling up" or increased cooling system pressure after switching off is unlikely to be HGF. Pressurisation due to HGF is caused by combustion pressure leaking past the gasket into the cooling passages - and if the engine isn't running then there is no combustion pressure.

 

What it actually is is the residual heat in the head causing the now stationary water in the water jacket to boil in a few hot spots (likely around the combustion chambers) and this is causing the pressure rise and water dumping.

 

Why now? Well, the hot weather/high ambient won't be helping but from the description of you PI running issues it seems highly likely that the butterflies are not well balanced, so some cylinders may be running quite lean and thus hotter than usual.

 

Higher pressure cap may be enough to mask the symptoms. Some water being pushed into the overflow bottle in these conditions is quite normal though and it should be sucked back on cooling provided the correct double-seal rad cap is fitted.

 

Nick

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According to the Triumph service instruction sheets and Dealer newsletters all Triumphs were fitted with a 13lb radiator cap from late 1968 / early 1969

 

Derek

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Probably isn't but a little thing also worth checking is if you really have filled the system and excluded all the air. Its very easy to leave a large pocket of air when filling which can cause a similar hot pressure burst, then you refill but still don't exclude all the air, and the same thing happens, and then your sure its something major.........

 

Alan

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I’ll stick a 13lb cap on and see if there is any improvement, hopefully the butterflies will be balanced when I get the car back on Saturday.

 

Ian

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Ian

You need to get the block drain opened and hook the crap out. Use a wire coat hangar That is probably more than likely your issue.it needs a proper flush.

Do you have a brass plug type or a tap?

Halfords do a two shot cleaner...... it may take a few goes!

 

Dave

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Ian

You need to get the block drain opened and hook the crap out. Use a wire coat hangar That is probably more than likely your issue.it needs a proper flush.

Do you have a brass plug type or a tap?

Halfords do a two shot cleaner...... it may take a few goes!

 

Dave

It's a brass plug Dave, I attacked it with a variety of picks and got absolutely nowhere, it's blocked solid. I had of course ran some radiator cleaning fluid first. I am trying to get hold of some Restore Plus but not having any joy so far.

 

Ian

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Probably isn't but a little thing also worth checking is if you really have filled the system and excluded all the air. Its very easy to leave a large pocket of air when filling which can cause a similar hot pressure burst, then you refill but still don't exclude all the air, and the same thing happens, and then your sure its something major.........

 

Alan

The heater was working fine Alan, not sure what other test I need to do to ensure the system is bled.

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I picked the car up tonight after the garage who had previously fitted my PI kit had another attempt using an inlet manifold setting tool. Initially the car was a lot better, after a few miles it was running on 5 which unfortunately happens a lot, this is despite 8 recon injectors having been fitted in the last couple of months. The car idles a lot better, then, on pressing the accelerator there is a flat spot before the revs pick up.

 

Unfortunately, on parking up the car dumped several litres of coolant, this after I had replaced the cap with a new 13lb one, yes, it does have two seals. I will redouble my efforts to obtain some Restore+ solution, I need to get the block flowing before I think about swapping the head out.

 

Ian

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Well, perhaps the first thing is to clear the block drain, I used a cordless drill to clear mine when all else failed, the bad news is that I doubt it will fix the coolant overflowing,but you have to start somewhere. then refill with the front of the car raised

 

Good luck,

 

John

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