Dodgy clonk at the back end

[RogerH]

Hi Markus,

   I had thought about the effect of 0.006" on the crown wheel backlash. because of the angle of the teeth.

Tomorrow I will will blue the crown wheel to see just what effect my 0,006" under the pinion head has done.

I will make some better tools tomorrow as well.

 

I will keep you all updated on what happens - you've been warned.

 

Roger

 

 

[GT6M]

Yee,l find that the tooth pattern has gone down along long way, nearly t,bottom

deeper in, moer shim lower contact,  further back,   { into case } , less shim, higher contact

{ if it wer set ok t,start wid }

ideal is slightly down tooth, as it,ll raise up wid load frae,t engine

contact on coast side should,  really mirror drive, but in reality its never that simples or good, due t,wear,n tear  !!

 

 Oil yer bearings, then run yer diff in a drill wid nee load for a while first, this,l get the blu t ,really show up a good pattern,

note, all teeth  possibly no the same, hence why I say blu em all

{ Herr Nibb,s small mek up brushes are good !!  plenty on / in it, an they soft too  , dont ask just tek, say Cat  took it, he hee heee  }

then, add some load wid a chisel between case an CW,

drill is nee good for this , so need a  breaker bar, as need t,apply quite a bit of load t, create actuall drive conditions.

 

M

 

[RogerH]

Hi Markus,

           many thanks for your many tips (loading the CW with a chisel and more).

I need to replace the big bearing on the pinion - some strange marks on the outer cup.   I'll remove one of the 0.003" shims (I do need some pre-load - there was none when I started this)

 

Roger

[Ian Vincent]

Roger,

The pre load shims are separate to the pinion depth setting shims. 

Rgds Ian

[RogerH]

Hi Ian,

   before I took it apart there was virtually no preload.

When I took it apart I found there were no shims for the preload of the pinion depth

Inserting 0,006" for the pinion depth I got the preload (without the preload shims)

 

Out to the garage now for another think and play.

[Ian Vincent]

When I set my diff up, I set the pinion depth first before setting the preload. I then set the crown wheel to the correct backlash and checked the mesh with engineer’s blue. 

As it happens, the mesh was incorrect and I had to take everything apart to remove 2 thou from the pinion depth shim pack and start again. This time it all came good. 

There are some helpful instructions on the TR Technicalities CD. I can drop you a copy if you like.

Rgds Ian

[RogerH]

Hi Ian,

             thanks for all your advice. It is most welcome as is the info from Markus.

 

I have come to a bit of a stopper.

The big bearing cup next to the pinion teeth has some damage (not sure how old - but not new).

This morning I bought a new bearing. The cup comes out quite easy. BUT BUT BUT how do you get the inner part off the bearing off the pinion shaft.

TRy as I might I just can't hold it securely or get anything intop the small gap to help lever etc

 

I think I may be defeated

 

Roger

[Ian Vincent]

Hi Roger,

the short answer is you get yourself a pair of bearing separators. The following link to machine mart shows one set  (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht226-bearing-separator/).

I found that I had to fettle mine to get them to work but nothing difficult.

Anyway, you will need bearing separators to remove the bearings from the diff case so that you can adjust the preload and the backlash between CW & P.

rgds Ian

 

 

[Lebro]

Or    grind a slot in the race to weaken it, then use hammer & chisel to crack the race open. it should then slide off.

Bob.

[Ian Vincent]

I believe Alec used to call that the Rock Ape approach.  The only problem is, to set up a diff you need to press a bearing on and then potentially remove it a number of times.  Your method doesn't leave much to be going on with.

Rds Ian

[RogerH]

Hi Ian,

          I've never had to remove a bearing in such a away and thus I did not know this existed.

To give Bob his due, the bearing once fitted should not need removing until it is worn out.

 

Bu88er I wish I had spotted that earlier.

 

Roger

[Ian Vincent]

10 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Ian,

          I've never had to remove a bearing in such a away and thus I did not know this existed.

To give Bob his due, the bearing once fitted should not need removing until it is worn out.

 

Bu88er I wish I had spotted that earlier.

 

Roger

Roger, My tongue was firmly wedged in my cheek when I posted my comment to Bob, and whilst I agree the bearing that is on there doesn't need to come off again you may well end up fitting and removing the CW bearings a few times till you get the backlash and preload right, and on my diff they certainly weren't a sliding fit.

Rgds Ian

[GT6M]

Rodger, lets clear summat up,

ye say there wer  ne shims,  so added a 6

was this added UNDER the pin bearing as I read it !!, ie, next to the teeth., or under the solid spacer, or under the bearing cup,

 

if ye have had that bearing off,  { pin end }  then there shoulld have been a thick 60-70- 80 thou shim,  just one, rest are what ive fun at diff times.

 

So if ye got that bearing off, did it come off easy, and the new,n is tighter,!!

hard work when yer no there,an nee pics,!!

 

re tek,n bearing off  if ne puller,  or bearing separator t,be correct,  like 2 cupped saucers that fit into the small 60 thou gap on end oft pin

 

then it can be done wid a selectionee of BLUNT chisels, I have a good selectionee of such things just for this sort of job,

blunt ends are frae 1/16  to 7/16 ths thick , so as t, get into gap after each wack an mek gap bigger, follow,!!

need a few of diff thickneses, as whenst bearing is shifted a wee bit, Ye DONT want t,damage the thick shim wid  end oft chisel, hence  they get bigger

 

1, hold pin tight int vice wid jaw protectors { ally sheet bent owa will suffice } an wack chisel into gap, both sides, it,ll strart t,shift

2, whenst its shifted a bit, put the next size bigger  blunt chisel in, an doo same as above., rotating pin as ye go as weel.

3, by noo, ye should have a gap of 1/4- 3/8th inch, and can then either get a even bigger blunt chisel, an wack it down a bit moer,

or get a brass drift, an wack inner part of bearing down wards, it,ll come easy after aboot 1 1/2 inches

 

some newer bearings are v v tight, they are diff sizes   c3 sizes, but no many folk no this

https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/C3 Bearings.pdf

https://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php

if yer new,ns  v v tight, a run thru wid a drill an a flap wheel will mek it go in just right

 

t,bung new,n on, then a selection of olde inner races,or a purpose med bit of thick pipe will suffice,

can wak in / on, or if yer got a press, then fine, use that.

 

There a good chance , as others ev said, that it,ll ev t,come off,  an on a few times, unless ye got it spot on first time.

 

Diffs are time consuming wee buggas, at times , as yer noo fin,n oot,!!

 

M

 

 

[RogerH]

Hi Markus,

                   I put the 0.06" shim under the cup of the bearing near the pinion teeth.

I could not shift the big inner bearing that is on the pinion next to the teeth.

 

PM sent

 

Roger

[GT6M]

Ahh, so under bigg bearing as its some times done,

this shuvs pin deeper into mesh, lowers contact patch

need 6 thou  under solid spacer as weel, as thats why bearing felt notchy, it went tight

 

re lack of shims, if its just spot on, then some times there are ne shims present,

ive had a few OE like this, no many thou,!!

good luck wid moss

we O await its return,

Butt, follow me destruktion,s int PM on arrival of the afore mentioned offending item  !!!

as clonk could have been yer interpretation of my noise  on PM regarding  drill speeds results. !!!

 

M