TR Paul Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) Good evening, fellow TR6ers, hope you're all well, and that you've recovered from the IWE! After a good (but sticky!) run to Lincoln & back (from Bournemouth, via Datchet; a 500 + mile round trip) at the weekend, TRoy (my 1970 TR6 pi) has been juddering his clutch especially in reverse. I believe this to be the gearbox mounting, which is looking a bit gooey these days. As you've probably guessed, I have several questions about this... 1) My Gearbox is a non-TR unit, with A-type Overdrive. The serial number has a MB prefix. I think this a 2000/2.5 saloon 'box? If so, what type of mounting do I need to get? 2) What's the best way changing the mounting? Is it done from under the car, or do I have to take the Gearbox tunnel out, or both approaches at the same time! Do I have to remove the prop shaft and/or exhaust? As ever any tips, advice & information will be much appreciated. Cheers, Paul. Edited July 4, 2018 by TR Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 The mountings should be standard early TR6 ones - the fact that it is a saloon box shouldn't change that. Realistically tunnel out. Should be able to keep the prop attached - as for the exhaust - probably remove unless you have a non-standard one that gives you access. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Hi Paul, Why do you think juddering is caused by the GB rubber? Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 If its juddering I would first check to see if you have the right dowel bolts fitted between the engine and gearbox. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Hi Chaps, thanks for the response. My gearbox mounting theory is based on the fact that the GB rubber is not looking healthy (it looks like it's had a healthy dowsing of S.A.E 90 over the years!), it's the same unit that's been on the car in 10+ years of ownership, & the symptoms get worse as things get hotter, which in my mind is consistent with the idea of the rubber breaking down. The dowel bolts haven't been disturbed (during my ownership), & this is a recent problem, so I'm not too sure if this could be the cause. However, I could be wrong (& I have been, many times before now!!). Best wishes, Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 I'd check the engine mounts first, they take the engine torque when the clutch is released. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted July 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2018 Sounds like a good plan, Mike; an easier job too.... in theory! Cheers, Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Hi Chaps, thanks for the response. My gearbox mounting theory is based on the fact that the GB rubber is not looking healthy (it looks like it's had a healthy dowsing of S.A.E 90 over the years!), it's the same unit that's been on the car in 10+ years of ownership, & the symptoms get worse as things get hotter, which in my mind is consistent with the idea of the rubber breaking down. The dowel bolts haven't been disturbed (during my ownership), & this is a recent problem, so I'm not too sure if this could be the cause. However, I could be wrong (& I have been, many times before now!!). Best wishes, Paul Hi Paul! I would try to make sure it is not oil on the clutch friction plate, look vey carefully at the hole in the bottom of the gearbox casing which is for this purpose. TO see if there are any signs of oil drips. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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