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Hi there,

yesterday I had a free day from the office and made the outgoing shaft ready.

You see it here already with the needle bearing and the connector.

1283224817_35EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-outgoingshaft36teeth.JPG.37624cda01a41b16fa35dd90db868218.JPG

About my connector I am more and more not pleased.

First it's a common part to use these with grub screws on EPS modifications (browse Youtube),

but the press the shaft only with one grub screw against the connector and lift it on the other side is scrap.

Second is the simple made teething with only one / the same insert 90°.

With 36 teeth on the shaft each tooth is 90° - 360°/36=80°, while in the connector each tooth is 90° + 360°/36=100°.

So to fix this simple teething a connector is needed that works like a vice.

1261588045_connector36teeth.jpg.33e45a8a3b9960bda8738e795c391bc5.jpg

I make another connector new, sketch is ready, and modify the shaft.

Cioa Marco 

 

Edited by Z320
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OK, ready. Not so bad my hacksaw cut.

1784590270_36EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-newconnector-bothsides36teeth.JPG.a85676d46614d4dbe4265c877e508e1d.JPG

Sticks together tight, easy to lock with a 1/2 turn.

1099337005_37EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-newconnectorwithmodifiedshaft.JPG.a1df33950860a6cc96252caf19ca3771.JPG

Next is to check the wobbling of the shaft, should be as less as possible for the needle bearing.

1574103245_38EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-checkthewobblingoftheshaft.JPG.9509226c4169757fcdb3739dc5a52480.JPG

Actually it's 0,30 mm (+/- 0,15 mm), perhaps I can stick ist together in a position with less.

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Realised the wobbling is always max where the cut is on the connector.

Made it about 2 mm deep on the other side and reduced wobbling to +/- 0,10 mm, also realised the shaft of the Renault unit is not stiff and allows some play.

1167673836_39EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-outgoingshaftready.JPG.b7aa51342ec712e70dcc5ddd8587cf60.JPG

Ready, the needle bearing 30 x 17 mm exactly fitts in the steel tube, little 4 mm drill is to grease it with a syringe.

Next is to do some construction work on our house.....

Ciao Marco 

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Hi,

next is to find out how to connect the inner tube diameter 32 mm to the sensor housing.

Inside the housing is 31 mm in diameter, 0.5 or 1.0 mm less would be better, but a M 32 x 1.0 mm thread could work.

1057938283_40EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-connetctinnertubetosensorhousing.JPG.64aae6feb9e3a1dd5712b5772d731073.JPG

As this is not a usual thread, I do not own suitable tap or die or master piece for that.

So first I cut the thread on the 32 mm tube on the late, then the inner thread in a piece of aluminium to find out.

308918041_41EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-cutM32x1onthelathe.JPG.a4f8b915fd959a57dfa503fdea2e543e.JPG

At the monent I'm not pleased with the threads surface, but with the tubes lenght I can not fix it stiff enought,

I should own a lathe with bore more than 32 mm (mine has 26 mm) to get the tube in the chuck to make the the thread direct next to the chuck.

I do some practicing the next days.....

Ciao Marco

.

Edited by Z320
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Got it, the difference may be good to see, the upper thread with chattering marks (?), the one in the chuck is OK now.

1078619076_42EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-cutM32x1onthelathe-badVSgood.JPG.29bb6cf793b89ee27e2952c46d5ba554.JPG

Because I don't get the tube through the chuck, but have to make the thread closer to it, I fixed it "the wrong way" around.

Also used more and better cutting oil and smaller steps of 0,025 mm für the last 10 cuts.

750579707_43EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-cutM32x1onthelathe-thewrongwayaround.JPG.d1edd3b6365067885c49e7508ccea134.JPG

Inside on the left side there was alway a solid piece of POM, and right side a piece of aluminium to get the tibe stiff on the lathe.

Now have to cut off the end that's now in the chuck and waitung for a needed tool I had to order for the next step.

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Your 3 jaw chuck must be more accurately made than mine to achieve such a fine thread with constant depth.

Well done your engineering skills are enviable.

Bob.

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On ‎10‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 8:51 AM, Waldi said:

Keep them coming Marco!

Waldi

Yeah, I do

On ‎10‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 9:29 AM, Lebro said:

Your 3 jaw chuck must be more accurately made than mine to achieve such a fine thread with constant depth.

Well done your engineering skills are enviable.

Bob.

Hi Bob, it's a new "Optimum", a better but affordable chinese lathe, constructed at germany, produced at china under german leadership.

https://www.optimum-machines.com/ For thread cutting it goes down to 30 turns per minute! Speed control is electronical, with gears up to 4,000 revs/min.

I had to buy it some years ago as I realised how much I need it for my hobbies. I would be not myself without.

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Same here. My circa 1934 Drummond M is pretty much worn but extremely useful for all that. The leadscrew is too worn for sensible thread-cutting though. The Three-jaw chuck is iffy on small diameter work but for 'accurate' stuff I use either the four-jaw or collets.

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Some while ago I bought a set of imperial collets (Morse taper type to go direct into the headstock)

Every time I wanted to turn something accurately it had a metric size, & would not fit any of them !

 

Bob

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My idea was to buy a new one to start not with the project "how to repair a lathe".

It's 3 jaw chuck works very well, until now I did not miss collets. Later you see my DIY face chuck.

Still waiting for the tool, been promissed to get it saturday....   

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On 8/18/2018 at 9:33 PM, Z320 said:

Today a letter came in with the controller kit from "Bruno's Steering", locks fine.

The "black box" is a really a black box, not possible to open it.

 

post-13222-0-70066000-1534620728_thumb.jpg

 

Ciao Marco

Hi Marco...

You´re right...such projects are nothing to write about in the german forum...same with me and the Megasquirt etc...

But just a remark on "Bruno´s black Box": it´s a simple signal generator emulating an (amplified) ABS-Sensor signal...

just connect it to a oscilloscope and you´ll see what i mean...

so next step would be to fit a triggerwheel to the front prop shaft connection (?) and generate a speed sencitive signal....

In the first step i would just power the "black box" when you´re in first and reverse gear (equals to "no power" on the overdrive switch...)

regards

Peter

Edited by Kamphausen
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Hi Peter,

thank you for your remark, I find out later what to do, a friend will help me as I do not own a soscilloscope.

Richard sent me a very interesting link about that a week ago, perhaps he will post it here to everyone.

Hi Andreas,

on the posts from August 18./19. you see how I did it, this is the tool from another view.

120651836_14-2EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-tooltocutinnerteeth.JPG.f653f6ab477547dec81051113035434d.JPG

I slide the hole carriage forward and backwards and cut in smaller getting steps, starting with 0,2 mm

@ all

this is the tool I was waiting for - to make the undercut  (freecut) at the end of the thread.

P1100019-b.JPG.6bf1edc43c3a9aeb35d5564863a22a4d.JPG

That worked well until a short moment of inattention when I did not switch the late of but slided the chisel OUT insted of IN  :angry:

With the sensor housing I have to be more carefull and make a stronger 45° cut on the outside.

P1100062-b.JPG

Tube fitts anyway

P1100063-b.JPG

P1100065-b.JPG

This exercise piece made of aluminium will be a helpfull tool later, you will see, next is to make the sensor housing about 15 mm shorter.

Ciao Marco

Edited by Z320
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Thanks, 

today made a plug of white POM (I love that material) with an o-ring to avoid dust and chips going in the senor housing.

Realised I do not need to use the face chuck, the housing runs absolutely lovely (slowly because of the asymmetry, 200 -1/min) with the 3 jaw chuck.

P1100068-b.JPG.e8b0a42512de4932f91fca281860c18c.JPG

P1100069-b.JPG.e68d00567fd44ca134167888e4961aab.JPG

Guess the aluminium casting is made with much silicium, the chips are very short, hope the thread works.

342711397_44EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-makethesensorhousingabout15mmshorter.JPG.83236c7731df4f123b7b84824516f6bb.JPG

That's the housing about 15 mm shorter and that's it for today

Ciao Marco 

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OK, had to realise this problem:

inside diameter is 31 mm, good for M32 x 1,0 - OUTSIDE, inside it gets wider up to 32,0 mm, it's tappered! :unsure:

What you see on the peaks of the thread is the cast surface, at the end you see the chisel only scratched the surfase.

424601897_45EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-thisisM32x1atdiameter31_5mm.JPG.7e76755eac2a4f0a40de78d9639e8dda.JPG

Finally I will glue that with Loctite but before I have to show that the TÜV - it would be a very bad idea to do this (zero points)!

Next steps should be self explaining.

1184958736_46EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-diameter35mm.JPG.6127632870a85192e3e8215d7ed7c1dd.JPG

2115625285_47EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-gluealumiumbushinwithLoctite638.JPG.866e9feff980b74ba6e142fe99e47804.JPG

1258249426_48EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-24hlater.JPG.170a1d6b24e03dd35e6cc52a1b601862.JPG

184777061_49EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-newM32x1.JPG.97f4a4c4cf1a8dd57db303bb0e9bdfdc.JPG

193080116_50EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-innershaft-finalytobegluedinwithLoctite.JPG.e296156387a435fe078ae3a131f8967d.JPG

Next is to fit the steering lock.

Ciao Marco

 

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On 10/7/2018 at 7:43 PM, Z320 said:

Richard sent me a very interesting link about that a week ago

Yes, it was Super 7th Heaven - Corsa C Electric Power steering (EPAS) which I discovered only *after* I had characterised the column I'd bought! (Would have saved some time)

My impression is that everyone uses the Corsa EPS (or EPAS) column because that's what everyone else has used. In hindsight, I wish I had looked at some others - the MGF/TF for example, as the motor is a different orientation. But then, there is rather less room in a Spit!

Corsa-C_EPS_3.JPG

Cheers, Richard

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Hi Richard,

thank you for your post. My choice was the Renault Clio 2 EPS - it seems to me to be the shortest unit.

.

Time for a very short intermezzo - the lock bush is 29,65 mm in diameter, it does not fit in the tube 32x1,5 mm.

Looked like there is a ring of metal between the bush and shaft, I pressed it down with a short tube on my old 2 tonnes leaver press.

2042376254_51EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-originallockbushonsteeringshaft.JPG.be4f98cb755d49b62a5fd812450470b5.JPG

P1100124-b.thumb.JPG.63a694eef12dc077b4b82cbfa1d60975.JPG

You might wonder about the leaver - this has been damaged by of the previous owners.

That happens when you make the leaver on any tool longer as it is made by one the producer.

1238207545_52EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-pressoriginallockbushfromsteeringshaft.thumb.JPG.2b37f0797acc258f62f2b00ed8387c5c.JPG

It works lovely anyway.

1199949469_53EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-originallockbushandsteeringshaftinpieces.JPG.973767141b6dd92f49cf83d3660e634c.JPG

Between was a sloted and curled (?) ring of spring steel, don't now what to do for the TR steering lock, have different options, time will bring the idea.

Ciao Marco

Edited by Z320
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Hi,

this is the first fit of the steering lock, the tube not drilled on that and the next photo.

P1100141-b.JPG.da50a32db8d5874024307d736856ff1e.JPG

170 mm is about 10 mm too long,

it would just "fit" but not for the cables, the lock will be in touch with the clamp on the dashboard.

1130103482_54EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-firstfitofsteeringlock170mm.JPG.db5d406378eb3338b0c19e8727ff3783.JPG

Tool making from exercise parts and scrap, drill is 18 mm

2144699913_55EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-toolmaking.JPG.3054e519d44620afdf47091604bd31d1.JPG

Cutting in small steps and slow revs - the tool holds the forces.

P1100149-b.JPG.ad71e2496fe39f756559144f094dab1b.JPG

Ready, diameter 10 mm larger

1645441729_56EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-makinglockclampsuitable.JPG.2ad81592807e1011c848da7bfa1e6e03.JPG

Unit in now 158 mm long, that will also fit for the cables. Cut on final length and drilled 18 mm for the lock.

1236095290_57EPSRenaultClioIIforTriumphTR4A-totallenghwithsteeringloch158mm.JPG.e301324c52116fd0fe4e2bfc6c1b0698.JPG

Next is to cut an old steering shaft in pieces, I need the "electrical terminal" and have to make an connector.

For any questions - ask, or suggestins - tell them.

Ciao Marco

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