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Hi,

 

today I was out in the garden to grind a slot in the steel bush

to get it from the sensor body, with the slot it was easy to pull it down.

 

post-13222-0-80861700-1533669746_thumb.jpg

 

Here it is, I could make the aluminium body about 15 mm shorter if needed.

 

post-13222-0-81793000-1533669747_thumb.jpg

 

Next you see the original outgoing steering column which I orderd for about 20 Euro at eBay.

My hope was I could use it anyway to fix the TR4 steering column in the EPS teethed shaft - but it does not work.

 

post-13222-0-97544900-1533669749_thumb.jpg

 

I want to keep it inside a outer tupe similar to the original (but made of steel), inside diameter approx. 30 mm.

Therefore it is much too massiv (diameter 46 mm). I have to send some more thoughts about that to keep it simple.

:unsure:

Cheers Marco

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi,

 

todays evening I pressed out the 5 mm bold that holds the incomming shaft on the EPS assembly.

I usesd my old 5 tonns leaver press, that good old lady made a wonderfull job.

 

The french ingenieers also did a great job, they fix the steering wheel with a M12 bolt on the shaft!

And the shaft is drilled hollow! So with a M12 bar and two nuts it is possible to push the shaft from the assembly.

I did not want to use a hammer to avoid damages on the torsion element and sensors!

 

post-13222-0-45171700-1533758904_thumb.jpg

 

Incoming 44 teeth, I guess I will use the old shaft (with some modification) to fix the TR steering column.

Outgoing 36 teeth, it should be another interesting project to broach a suitable connector in the lathe?

 

This is the way it could be fixed behind the dashboard (LHD), this will be the next think I have to look for.

Also an idea: under the bonnet, next to the engine, possible on LHD TRs but obvious to see.

 

post-13222-0-40094900-1533758905_thumb.jpg

 

Length over all is 15 cm, possible to make it 1,5 cm shorter to use further the steering lock.

 

post-13222-0-33132700-1533758906_thumb.jpg

 

Spend money until today: 49 € for the assembly, 20 € for the outgoing shaft.

Hope that will ever run.

 

Cioa Marco

 

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Hi Marco,

The Return On Investment is already made, you are having fun doing some engineering????.

Going to a bar for the same duration would have cost more.

Hope you can get it to work, seems like a nice project.

Cheers,

Waldi

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Marco, I am impressed with the complex engineering modifications you are dealing with.

 

You are a better man than me, that would be way beyond me.

 

Good luck and keep the updates coming.

H

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Hi Hamish,

 

on a scale from "0" (without options, skills and knowledge) and "10" (master of mechanics and tools) I quote myself a "4" :)

But that's all relative

 

Ciao Marco

Im even more impressed then ????????

 

Hope it all works out for you.

H

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Hi everybody, thanks for your interest.

 

This evening I was out at the car to measure and check if the EPS fits WITH steering lock behind the dashboard.

It does not, 14 cm is needed for the steering, 4 cm for the lock, 1 cm for the cables, so 19 cm - but there are only 17 cm.

 

Without lock it's less problem but anyway the construction must be made in 3 parts

because it's not only bolted on but sticked through the dashboard.

 

Put everything in place again and had a lovely drive, and found a EPS not really neccessary.

But it's a challenge!

 

So I orderd the control box that substitutes the missing central contol box from "Bruno Steering" and steel tube for the outer shaft.

I go on to report but it will be a long time project.

 

Ciao Marco

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Hi, back again,

 

I started work with the connector for the outer half of the steering shaft on the Clio II EPS assambly.

 

post-13222-0-28385100-1534620067_thumb.jpg

 

To cut a 3/4" UNF on one side is no problem (diameter original steering shaft), but the 36 inner teeth I never did.

So I took soem lessons in Youtube, great thing, always someone tells you what you want to know.

 

First I had to make a tool to grind the "cutting insert" with 90° end from a 5 mm drill, which is now 15 mm shorter....

 

post-13222-0-51170800-1534620069_thumb.jpg

 

Next was to make the tool to hold the insert for making the inner teeth.

 

post-13222-0-83255200-1534620071_thumb.jpg

 

Started to broach each tooth in steps 0,25 mm - 0,20 mm - 0,10 mm - 0,05 mm - 0,05 mm - .... up to 0,90 mm.

 

post-13222-0-99469300-1534620072_thumb.jpg

 

At last the teeth had to be 1,10 mm deep to fit on the ESP assambly.

 

post-13222-0-12439200-1534620074_thumb.jpg

 

Ready, that worked so easy, if I would have known that I would made both sides 36 teeth!

The insert looks like not used, not further grindig is needed to to the next connector :)

 

post-13222-0-83185300-1534620074_thumb.jpg

 

Fitted on the EPS-unit, final lock I will do with allen head grub screws M8,

have to buy some, have 6 and 10 mm in stock.

 

post-13222-0-76131700-1534620075_thumb.jpg

 

Today a letter came in with the controller kit from "Bruno's Steering", locks fine.

The "black box" is a really a black box, not possible to open it.

 

post-13222-0-70066000-1534620728_thumb.jpg

 

Ciao Marco

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Hi Waldi, that's quite easy!

 

To cut theards you have a "gear box" on an lathe with only one gear fixed, the upper main gear.

If you are lucky this has 36 teeth and you can make yourself something like a "hook" to fix the main spindle.

 

post-13222-0-64745000-1534631023_thumb.jpg

 

36 is a geat number, you can devide by 2, 3, 4, 6, 9. Really great.

But Im not lucks, my main gear has 40 teeth! A really bad idea....

 

So I made myself a connector made of POM to fix a saw blade with 36 teeth.

 

post-13222-0-23450900-1534631021_thumb.jpg

 

Looks dangerous, but it is not: the lathe does not run while broaching the teeth.

 

Ciao Marco

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Hi, this happened:

 

The original shell of the steering column is 32 x 1,0 mm, made of aluminum and I guess much too week for the torque of the ESP.

And I have no idea how to connect it proper on the flange of ESP assabley. So I make it new of precision steel tube (S235 quality).

 

post-13222-0-88439800-1535403566_thumb.jpg

 

I use 34 x 2,0 mm tube to get a needle bearing 30x17 mm fitted, I do not want to use nylon or POM, ready to weld.

Bearing you see on the upper photo, it's a double sealed "2RS", see tube and flange ready to weld.

 

post-13222-0-80313200-1535403568_thumb.jpg

 

The original outer steering shaft is a tube 19x16 mm, inside the adjustable shaft to the steering coupling.

This is not possible to fix proper on the EPS with the connector, adjustable I do not need, so I make it new.

 

post-13222-0-69087000-1535403569_thumb.jpg

 

To work with the parts on the work bench is a little like roling a melon over the table.

Had the same problem with one of my MC gearboxes and made this work bench to work easier.

 

post-13222-0-03669200-1535403571_thumb.jpg

 

Fitts lovely, but what was the problem?

 

post-13222-0-05760100-1535403572_thumb.jpg

 

This surface looks perfect, but it is only a cast surface, not mashined, a multible seesaw!.

 

post-13222-0-01903400-1535403573_thumb.jpg

 

That was the reason I tought I welded the outer shaft bended in the steel flange!

But I did not, I have to invest some work on the flange and ESP surface and hope to handle the problem.

 

Ciao

Marco

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Waldi is a perfect gentleman!

 

He wanted to ask me, but not critizice me at this forum, about a fact I know and will explain later.

Anyway: do not hesitate to ask or tell me anythink you want!

 

With more than 1.500 posts I left a german forum.

There on this post I would have to stand "murder and homicide" (german saying).

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Thanks Marco,

The vast majority on this forum are true car enthusiasts and it is lively help is always near by

This is the reason for me to go abroad like you did.

Gruesse aus ????????

Waldi

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Rather the time to put out the original TR steering column and see if the EPS unit fits like I want.

But - I have no time the next days and want to drive the car on saturday and sunday.

 

So it's time to spend some thoughts to the upper end of the TR steering column, special to the tapered part.

I measure and calculate it should be a 16° conus, that's a tangent funktion, so you can also use % instead of degrees.

 

post-13222-0-43853200-1535572122_thumb.jpg

 

That's more exact to adjust on the late, to control I use a original steering wheel and black Edding.

 

I started with 30% = 16,70°

post-13222-0-46124700-1535571956_thumb.jpg

next 29% = 16,17°

post-13222-0-02433100-1535571955_thumb.jpg

perhaps 28% = 15,64°

post-13222-0-34874200-1535571953_thumb.jpg

to check 27% = 15,10°

post-13222-0-50462400-1535571951_thumb.jpg

 

Which would you use?

 

Ciao Marco

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Hmmm, little problem, perhaps only a question...

This thread I indicatat as 1/2"-20 UNF (12,7 mm - 20).

 

post-13222-0-90269800-1535654708_thumb.jpg

 

As I do not own a suitable die I cut it on the late, but the TR nut does not fit!

Doubble-checked the tread seems to be 13,2 mm - 19?

 

Does anybody know? Thanks

 

Ciao Marco

 

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