POWER STEERING

[RobH]

1/4 BSP is 0.518" (13.15mm) x 19tpi.

[Z320]

Hi Rob,

thank you very much, this seems to be a safety feature :-)

Ciao Marco

[Z320]

Hi Rob, found a connector BSP 1/4x1/8 in my workshop.

The TR nut fits, no doubt, as you indicated it is BSP, thanks.

[Xmas6]

Hi all I went along this road with a Corsa unit but eventually gave up due to the space restrictions under the dash and fitting the steering lock -even considered aSaab type “remote” lock.

This thread has got my thoughts going again and thinking - is there any reason apart from the heat from the manifold, why the electric unit cannot be mounted on the steering shaft in the engine bay?

There appears to be sufficient room for the unit and any required bracketed.

All thoughts gratefully received.

Cheers Neil

[Z320]

If there is any interest I could explain

the difference between adjusting the lathe for making a cone by angle or by grade.....

[Waldi]

If there is any interest I could explain

the difference between adjusting the lathe for making a cone by angle or by grade.....

 

Yes please, Im ????

Waldi

[Z320]

Hi Waldi,

thank you, you alway soak knowledge like a dry sponge!

I try to explain and hope to use the correct technical terms.

 

First you have to know angle degree is the same as grade, connection is the tangent rule.

For exampe tan 17° = 0,305 = 30,5/100 = 30,5%. Other example: a street 8% steep = tan^-1 0,08 = angle 4,57°

 

Assume you want to make a cone 17°, so on the lathe you have to adjust 8,5°.

Does this fit? The scale is pretty rough? Problem when the female part to check with ink is missing.

 

 

With this adjustment you look on the lathe,

in right angle to the machine, a bar fixed in the chuck looks "staight", the compound rest is "8,5°" angular.

 

 

Now imagine you "sit" on the compound rest and look in right angle from the rest on the fixed bar.

Compound rest looks straigt, bar looks angular. You look on e triangle, right side you see the real / full (not half) angle,

left side (the y-line) of the triangle imagine a scale.

 

 

Move the turning tool forward until it gently touches the bar and set the x-scale to zero.

 

 

Now turn the compound rest for example 10 mm to the left (x-line), the turning tool "lifts" from the bar.

Than turn the turning tool the y-line back on the bar, touch it gently again.

 

 

See what way you had to move, here 3,10 mm, thats 3,10 mm to 10,00 mm = 31% = 0,31.

tan ^-1 0,31 = 17,223°, that nearly matchs, you have to deside to adjust a minimum or not.

 

 

To get a more exact result you have to move more to the left, for example 30 mm.

Then you measure the y-line for exampe 9,25 mm, that's 9,25 mm / 30 mm = 0,30833

tan ^-1 0,30833 = 17,136°.

 

"That's all", back to angle 0° works the same.

 

Ciao Marco

[Waldi]

Now thats ain interesting method the get a more precise cone!

Thanks for your effort to explain this Marco.

Regards,

Waldi

[Z320]

Hi Waldi,

you are welcome with your questions.

 

By the way: Lebro is right with 29% and you are also right with 28%.

I guess with the teeth on the shaft that does not rule, with a look at the photos 30% and 27%

maybe 28,5% is the best choice?

 

I adjusted 8° on the rough scale of the lathe and checked as I reported above.

And got 2,85 mm = 28,5% on the first attempt, without any further adjusting.

 

That's what I did.

 

 

 

[Z320]

Hi Niel,

 

on some modern cars the electric motor of the EPS is not behind the bulkhed

but direkt on the steering rack, in front of the engine, not next to the engine.

 

On my LHD heat would not be so much a problem than on RHD TRs.

That was a short time a idea, but for me the ESP is to obvious to see there.

I don't like to see any obvious modern stuff under the bonnet.

 

Ciao Marco

[Waldi]

Hi Marco,

Using the average of Bobs and my guess for the cone is the Dutch model used in politics:)

(No, I do not want to start a political discussion!)

Im sure tou will use ink again to verify the correctness of the taper.

Nice machining quality you make.

 

Does the German TUV allow such modification you think?

I understand they can be very strickt.

 

Waldi

[Z320]

Hi Waldi,

 

I did the identification of the angle before because it is not possible to check this with ink on the final construction because of the teeth.

Yes we have the TÜV here at Germany, they are not so bad. But if they do not allow it I will sell it.

 

Ciao Marco

[Z320]

Hi all,

 

at the moment I put the steering shaft out, but stopped and gave some thought to this:

 

the steering column will not be adjustable because of no space behind the dashboard,

I have no overdrive now and want to have the switches for light and indicator as close to the dashboard as possible.

But in the case I will fit an overdrive I need to have enough space to fit the half-cover for the overdrive switch.

 

What distance I have to keep, please? At the moment it's about 60 mm as shown on this photo.

 

 

Thanks in advance for answers

 

Marco, 192 cm tall

 

 

[stuart]

I have my column well forward as you know Im fairly tall but I have 108mm.

Stuart.

[peejay4A]

105mm here.

[Waldi]

An alternative is to mount the OD switch in the gear stick knob.

Waldi

Edited September 5, 2018 by Waldi

[Z320]

thank you all,

for the weekend I will adjust the steering to 100 mm and see how I can live with that.

[Z320]

Made these small parts:

 

a bar to strenghten the bracket welded on the bulkhead and a new clamp according to the new diamater.

You also see countersunk bolts I use to get as close to the brocket as possible.

 

 

Did that to fitt the assambly today the first time to see

how close I get it to the bracket on the bulkhead and the bulkhead itself without touching anything.

 

That dictates the lengt of the outer half of the steering shaft. Lovely: get direkt on it and touch nowhere.

Also measured how much I have to make the sensor housing shorter to set the steering lock.

 

 

Now I can go on, but tomorrow I put in the original steering shaft in again to get the car ready to drive.

Everythink looks nice, but I guess to fit the whole unit I probably have to take the dashboard out....

 

Never did that, any advice?

Perhaps a good possibility to get rid with the electric cable chaos from the previous owner?

 

Ciao Marco

Edited September 5, 2018 by Z320

[Waldi]

Taking the dash board out is not too difficult. Best done with 2 persons.

Waldi

[Spit_2.5PI]

Hi Marco, you probably already know this. Forgive me if you do but just in case, don't forget to add a torque bar from the EPS to a suitable point on the bulkhead or A-post. This is to give the motor something to push against as it assists your arms. Your "torque bar" is your spine, through the seat to the floor.

 

When I was testing a Corsa EPS, characterising the assistance by adding weights to a mole wrench, I very nearly destroyed the kitchen scales I was using to measure the force at the other end! The motor really is VERY powerful.

 

I'm loving the engineering going on. Keep up the good work!

 

Cheers, Richard

[Z320]

Hi Richard,

 

indeed I alreday realised the torque will be a problem and made some thoughts to this.

I also keep in mind the bracket on the bulkhead is only mad of 1 mm steel and 50 years old.

 

It was also the plan to check this with the first fitting yesterday, I have 2 ideas, guess I can handle that.

 

BUT your advice is VERY appreciated because it tells me I'm on the right way. More of this please!

I wonder why this in never worth to menton on all EPS-converting projects I found at the web.

 

Ciao Marco

[Z320]

Second fitting yesterday before I put the oringinal steering colmun back (also yesterday).

 

 

The EPS units weight is about 5 kg and turns the whole unit strongly anti-clockwise,

perhaps possible to fix it only with a clamp simillar to the original, but shure not while working.

For measurement I used a wooden pillar, not a good idea for driving.

 

 

Most effectiv to me seems a strap from one of the bolts (or alle 3) of the pedal box to the electric motor.

You see (arrow) how close I get the unit is to the origanla bracket welded on the bulkhead.

 

 

Anyway, for the steering lock I have to make the sensor box about 10 - 15 mm shorter,

and the cables for light and indicator longer.

 

Ciao Marco

[TriumphV8]

Very nice project.

Very clean work!

[Waldi]

Tiger Tank engineering!

Waldi

[Z320]

As I have only little time free - I'm baking small rolls, as we say

 

 

Nut 1/4" BSP x 17/16 wrench size (27 mm), metric no problem, a bit large but "common" size.

Is this a standard size at the imperial system?

 

.

Edited September 11, 2018 by Z320