pjc615ukuk Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Hi All. Following my post regarding engine cutting out which I posted last month. A really long story cut short, the car eventually broke down and it wouldn't start again. The man from the RAC eventually diagnosed (frying my radio in the process)the problem as a faulty ignition switch. He then ran a temporary 'live' wire from the battery directly to the coil to enable me to get home. Can anyone tell me is replacing an ignition switch an easy task,or would I need the expertise of an auto electrician? Also will I now need a new lock and keys? Finally, there seems to be a wide range of switches available, at vastly different costs. Can anyone recommended a particular type? 1971 CP car. Ignition located on steering column which is lockable. Many thanks. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Hi Peter, Replacing the lock is not too difficult. Best to remove your seat and the two large meters (speedo and tacho). Make pictures and sketches during work, and use the Moss catalog as your guide. It may be that a PO installed some parts incorrect, so be aware of that. Good luck, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Peter, Was the ignition switch overloaded ? Consider inserting a suitable heavy duty relay into the ignition circuit effectively removing all the load from the ignition switch. The existing switch may still be suitable to energise such a relay, just not carry a load. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Woa! I think you can get away without taking the steering lock off. The switch itself slots into the back of the steering lock assembly. It is held in place with a small pin that goes in from the side. If you can get the pin out (mine came out with a pair of pliers) the switch comes out the back and it is an easy case of pulling off the wires and replacing the switch.. How do I know? Had very similar issue to you on the way to Spa, turned out that the main ignition wire snapped internally, but ended up taking the switch out in the process of fault finding. Interestingly I seem to be having the same fault again after 5 years.. this time I think it is the switch! Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjc615ukuk Posted June 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 Thanks Chaps! I'm hoping that I've the same problem (and solution) that Tim D experienced. I'm just hoping whatever the RAC man did, is easily reversible,and I'm able to identify the wiring connections to their correct positions. Watch this space... Many thanks to all once again. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjc615ukuk Posted June 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) . Edited June 24, 2018 by pjc615ukuk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litespud Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 My ignition switch failed a couple of years ago - just driving along and everything just died. Initially thought it was a general power failure, as the starter wouldn’t turn over either, until I found that the lights (unswitched in a ‘72) still worked. I pulled the switch and confirmed that it wasn’t working. Rather than replace with a repro of unknown quality back in the awkward under the steering wheel location, I installed a modern switch in the dash, replacing the unnecessary rheostat. Once I identified all the connections (and figuring out how to hotwire a car in the process), I had to extend a few of the lines to relocate the switch, but not a very complex job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lancer Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 On 6/24/2018 at 11:46 AM, Litespud said: My ignition switch failed a couple of years ago - just driving along and everything just died. Initially thought it was a general power failure, as the starter wouldn’t turn over either, until I found that the lights (unswitched in a ‘72) still worked. I pulled the switch and confirmed that it wasn’t working. Rather than replace with a repro of unknown quality back in the awkward under the steering wheel location, I installed a modern switch in the dash, replacing the unnecessary rheostat. Once I identified all the connections (and figuring out how to hotwire a car in the process), I had to extend a few of the lines to relocate the switch, but not a very complex job Hi, Same problem here with 74 TR6 but my starter was already moved to the central dash rheostat. How was your experience removing the dashboard? I have disconnected the speedo and tach but need to remove the driver's seat to get up under to remove clamps, etc. hoping that this is easier than it looks. thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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