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Indicator switch cancellation clip ring alignment


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Having recently had the dashboard and steering column out on my car, a 73 CR and replaced wiring and heater etc., I am now in the process of checking everything. My indicator switch was very worn and tired and I have ordered a new one. However the spring clip on the steering column with the wheels straight ahead, has the operation hump at 12 o'clock which does not seem right. This clip has an indentation that engages with a indentation on the steering column and therefore will only go in one fixed orientation. The steering column is connected as was previously and unless I am missing something, because of the flats where the bolts go at the joints, the column has to go back in the same orientation as before. It may well be that the cancellation clip has been in the wrong orientation for many years and cancelled one side sooner than the other!

What is the correct orientation of the cancellation ring in relation to the switch? ( I think it should be pointing away at 9 oclock)

How do I change it if required - drill another indentation in the steering column?

MARK

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The raised part of the clip needs to be central between the cancelling *ears” of the switch with the steering wheel straight ahead. Usually that’s at the three o’clock position although on my car I have the indicator stalk on the left to avoid confusion with my daily drive. You’ll need to separate the column splines, reposition the canceller then reconnect the splines.

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Make sure it's correct, mine self cancels on right turns but not left since I had the column apart replacing bushes. I obviously didn't get the alignment correct. Another job in the list -_-

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Make sure it's correct, mine self cancels on right turns but not left since I had the column apart replacing bushes. I obviously didn't get the alignment correct. Another job in the list -_-

 

Mines the same but only works going left! However the clip on the steering column does lie in-between the stalk switches when the steering wheel is straight ahead, so I don't know what the problem is either.

 

Daz

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Mines the same but only works going left! However the clip on the steering column does lie in-between the stalk switches when the steering wheel is straight ahead, so I don't know what the problem is either.

 

Daz

That will be in the switch itself, I have one here like that and its tight on the conduction track that side so wont spring back but works fine the other side.

Stuart.

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I heard repro switches have that. Not from own experience.

After the original springs were installed on that repro switch it worked, apparently.

Waldi

Edited by Waldi
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I heard repro switches have that. Not from own experience.

After the original springs were installed on that repro switch it worked, apparently.

Waldi

Not this one its original, just very worn by the sounds of its action.

Stuart.

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The raised part of the clip needs to be central between the cancelling *ears” of the switch with the steering wheel straight ahead. Usually that’s at the three o’clock position although on my car I have the indicator stalk on the left to avoid confusion with my daily drive. You’ll need to separate the column splines, reposition the canceller then reconnect the splines.

Thanks Pete but I don't see how I can reposition the cancelling clip by altering the splines of the steering column as on the TR6 CR the column has flats and cutouts for the the bolts on the column joints unless i am missing a way of doing it.

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Good point. In which case back to fundamentals. It may be that over time adjustment if the tracking has caused the steering to go off centre which has been compensated by repositioning the steering wheel. Get the track rods to equal length about centre. Then disconnect the column from the rack and align the canceller as best you can using a combination of front wheel position and whatever the splines will give you. Bolt it all up then position the steering wheel in relation to the canceller. It will be off. Then off to your tyre place and get them to set the tracking with the steering wheel straight ahead.

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Thanks Pete but I don't see how I can reposition the cancelling clip by altering the splines of the steering column as on the TR6 CR the column has flats and cutouts for the the bolts on the column joints unless i am missing a way of doing it.

 

Mark, you can undo the connection just left of the rubber bush in the engine bay next to the clutch reservoir and rotate it so the clip is aligned correctly.

 

Daz

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Mark, you can undo the connection just left of the rubber bush in the engine bay next to the clutch reservoir and rotate it so the clip is aligned correctly.

 

Daz

Thanks Daz . I have been looking at the rubber coupling joint but wont that be a change of 180 degrees instead of 90 degrees that I need ( lobe currently at 12 oclock) by rotation of rubber coupling ?

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Thanks Daz . I have been looking at the rubber coupling joint but wont that be a change of 180 degrees instead of 90 degrees that I need ( lobe currently at 12 oclock) by rotation of rubber coupling ?

You don't move the rubber joint but the clamp to the left of it.

 

Undo parts 56 & 57 in this:https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-racks-mountings-inner-columns-tr5-6.html

 

Then it will rotate.

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I dont think so. Part 55 has a flat machined onto it to stop it from rotating. That part allows fore and aft adjustment of the column.

Edited by peejay4A
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You don't move the rubber joint but the clamp to the left of it.

 

Undo parts 56 & 57 in this:https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-racks-mountings-inner-columns-tr5-6.html

 

Then it will rotate.

If you look at the two parts 56 and 57 there is a cut out for the bolt and so it will only go in one plane and cannot be changed in orientation, I think.

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Mark

Start from basics as previously pointed out. Get it supported on axle stands ....then

A) disconnect the track rod ends

B) disconnect the steering from the rack item 71..... the fitting here on the rods has a groove all the way round so can be adjusted a spline at a time

C) turn the steering until the cancellation clip is a 9 o/c position

D) line up the steering wheel at the straight ahead position and refit

E) centralise the rack...... wind it from end to end then work out how many turns to get it central

F) wind the track rod ends until roughly the same amount of threads are showing on each one, then connect them up.

G) use a length of wood or string or mk1 eyeball and tweak the rod ends ....by equal amounts to get the wheels pointing straight ahead

H) refit the pinch bolts at the column to rack

I) tighten everything up

J). tighten everything up

K) tighten everything up

 

Did I mention.....tighten everything up

L) go get the tracking done. If the garage says they can’t do it because it’s not in their software yada yada yada.. all you need is them pointing straight ahead with the steering wheel locked centrally. 1.6-3.2 mm toe in.

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If you look at the two parts 56 and 57 there is a cut out for the bolt and so it will only go in one plane and cannot be changed in orientation, I think.

 

I beg to differ as I recently did it on my car - it was very easy. I'll have another look at the weekend and see exactly what I did.

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Mark

Start from basics as previously pointed out. Get it supported on axle stands ....then

A) disconnect the track rod ends

B) disconnect the steering from the rack item 71..... the fitting here on the rods has a groove all the way round so can be adjusted a spline at a time

C) turn the steering until the cancellation clip is a 9 o/c position

D) line up the steering wheel at the straight ahead position and refit

E) centralise the rack...... wind it from end to end then work out how many turns to get it central

F) wind the track rod ends until roughly the same amount of threads are showing on each one, then connect them up.

G) use a length of wood or string or mk1 eyeball and tweak the rod ends ....by equal amounts to get the wheels pointing straight ahead

H) refit the pinch bolts at the column to rack

I) tighten everything up

J). tighten everything up

K) tighten everything up

 

Did I mention.....tighten everything up

L) go get the tracking done. If the garage says they can’t do it because it’s not in their software yada yada yada.. all you need is them pointing straight ahead with the steering wheel locked centrally. 1.6-3.2 mm toe in.

Thanks Daven.

Seems a lot to do just to get indicators to cancel !

I might just cheat and drill another dimple hole for the clip in the right position on the steering column!

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Mark you can do that but really it’s fairly straightforward to accomplish.

That description will get everything back to standard and will make sure the rack is centralised.

Now, if you are certain the rack is central, just disconnect the lower universal joint, reposition the steering column to get the clip orientation correct then refit the universal.

(PS: I’m not so certain the column is mild steel, so may not be that easy to drill)

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Mark you can do that but really it’s fairly straightforward to accomplish.

That description will get everything back to standard and will make sure the rack is centralised.

Now, if you are certain the rack is central, just disconnect the lower universal joint, reposition the steering column to get the clip orientation correct then refit the universal.

(PS: I’m not so certain the column is mild steel, so may not be that easy to drill)

Thanks Dave. I did not know the bottom joint would rotate. On axle stands and ready to sort after grandkids weekend stopover!! Also found brand new rubber steering joint I forgot I had! P.S. Flashing stainless steel goodridge hose across the battery terminals when fitting a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is not fun and brands your hand when you pull it away! The joys of TR ownership!!

MARK

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Hi, just to confirm it can be done. Mine had this exact issue. (clip set at 12 not 3 o'clock). corrected around 3 years ago. If I remember correctly, I did it by disconnecting the steering shaft clamp at the rack. Corrected the clip orientation, took off and realigned the steering wheel reassembled it all.

I seem to recall I had to remove the U-bolt over the rack on the RHS to slide it forward temporarily to get enough room to fully take the shaft clamp off.

Its all fairly logical and indicators cancel a treat now...

 

Good luck, J.

Edited by jamesStag
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