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Hi All,

Anybody suffered this. I am getting oily greasy smuts thrown up into the engine bay & as it is a white car it all becomes a bit unsightly after a run, with little black dots! Although the engine is relatively leak free I think oil from say the timing cover must be ending up on the fan belt & being thrown up from the rotation of the belt. The belt does appear rather black & greasy when wiped with a rag.

Apart from yet another timing case oil seal does anybody else have any ideas & cures?

Thanks.

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Oil or grease from the water pump?

 

Iain

Cannot see any signs of leakage from the pump area, just a residue of oil around the timing cover area & some oil misting on the cross member. Back of the crank pulley wheel is a bit oily too. Thanks anyway Iain.

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Hi Monty, what belt are you running original wide or narrow?

If its timing cover you should see drips down face of timing cover looking from below.

Rocker cover leaks are possible as is front of dynamo. How clean is engine area, try de greasing whole area to spot source of leak.

Chris

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Hi Monty, what belt are you running original wide or narrow?

If its timing cover you should see drips down face of timing cover looking from below.

Rocker cover leaks are possible as is front of dynamo. How clean is engine area, try de greasing whole area to spot source of leak.

Chris

Hi Chris. Narrow belt. Rocker cover is fine but there is a small leakage around the timing cover or @ the front of the engine. Not large leaks as it does not drip on to the floor. Just a nuisance really but messes up my nice clean engine compartment!

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Double Check the Water Pump it might not be Leaking yet but it’s getting ready too.

Cannot see any sign of leakage near the pump. Where should I look for water pump leakage & how does any grease escape & show itself?

Cheers.

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I'm tempted to rename "Geoffrey" Oily Smuts it has a certain cachet????. Better still if he/it was of South African origin (which he isn't!).

And his oilyness has hopefully been considerably reduced/terminated!

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Have you the type of Pump with the small hole underneath the Bearing Housing,this is where the Grease started to weep on mine and had the same symptoms as yourself.

So what would I need to replace if grease is leaking? The pump body or the water pump assembly or both? Why would grease leak out if water is not leaking? Perhaps somebody could explain what exactly goes wrong here? Should I replace with a greasable pump assembly (current one does not have a grease nipple)? Uprated pump or alloy housing?

Thanks.

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So what would I need to replace if grease is leaking? The pump body or the water pump assembly or both? Why would grease leak out if water is not leaking? Perhaps somebody could explain what exactly goes wrong here? Should I replace with a greasable pump assembly (current one does not have a grease nipple)? Uprated pump or alloy housing?

Thanks.

I wouldn’t replace anything at the moment until you discover what’s wrong.

The Water Pump has a sealed Bearing if the Seal is breaking down it’s letting the Grease leak out,soon the Bearing will run dry and the Pump will start to Leak or the Bearing fail altogether.

If above happens it’s only the Water Pump you have to replace.

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I wouldn’t replace anything at the moment until you discover what’s wrong.

The Water Pump has a sealed Bearing if the Seal is breaking down it’s letting the Grease leak out,soon the Bearing will run dry and the Pump will start to Leak or the Bearing fail altogether.

If above happens it’s only the Water Pump you have to replace.

Thanks Niall. Just had another look & there is a little grease on the underneath of the pump flange which appears to be of the same consistency of the 'smuts'. In for MOT on Friday so can take a good look from underneath with inspection lamp! Did you go with an uprated pump (from who)? &/or a pump with the grease nipple? All looks like your similar problem!

Cheers.

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Ive a TR6 but I think your Water Pump may be different.

Dont Panic yet Im sure someone will be along with better advice than me.

Thanks again Niall but I suspect it will be the usual repro stuff! I note that Revington do not think much of the uprated items around, TR Enterprises do not offer anything other than the Moss listed item & Racetorations offer a hugely expensive upgrade!

Cheers.

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Monty

 

Contact EP Services , a good old fashioned engineering firm in the Midlands who will rebuild your existing unit ( they may be able to exchange) with proper bearings and seals - they then give you a lifetime guarantee! And the cost - approx the same as a repro.

 

http://www.ep-services.co.uk/our_company

Unit 1 Central Trading Estate,
Cable Street, Wolverhampton,
West Midlands, England, WV2 2RJ

Tel: +44 (0)1902 452 914
Fax: +44 (0)1902 871 547
Out Of Hours: +44 (0)7770 747724

 

As for uprated pumps, there appears to be conflicting experiences as to whether these are any better and some evidence that they might even be worse than standard, so I would stick with standard. A good standard pump should be more than adequate.

 

I have no connection with EPS other than as a satisfied customer - if you can't afford to wait for an exchanged unit, I have some spare rebuilt units - you are welcome to have one if you let me have one of their rebuilt units in exchange - PM me if interested

 

Cheers

Rich

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Monty

 

Contact EP Services , a good old fashioned engineering firm in the Midlands who will rebuild your existing unit ( they may be able to exchange) with proper bearings and seals - they then give you a lifetime guarantee! And the cost - approx the same as a repro.

 

http://www.ep-services.co.uk/our_company

Unit 1 Central Trading Estate,

Cable Street, Wolverhampton,

West Midlands, England, WV2 2RJ

Tel: +44 (0)1902 452 914

Fax: +44 (0)1902 871 547

Out Of Hours: +44 (0)7770 747724

 

As for uprated pumps, there appears to be conflicting experiences as to whether these are any better and some evidence that they might even be worse than standard, so I would stick with standard. A good standard pump should be more than adequate.

 

I have no connection with EPS other than as a satisfied customer - if you can't afford to wait for an exchanged unit, I have some spare rebuilt units - you are welcome to have one if you let me have one of their rebuilt units in exchange - PM me if interested

 

Cheers

Rich

Well Done Rich I knew someone would come up TRumps. Edited by TR NIALL
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Monty

 

Contact EP Services , a good old fashioned engineering firm in the Midlands who will rebuild your existing unit ( they may be able to exchange) with proper bearings and seals - they then give you a lifetime guarantee! And the cost - approx the same as a repro.

 

http://www.ep-services.co.uk/our_company

Unit 1 Central Trading Estate,

Cable Street, Wolverhampton,

West Midlands, England, WV2 2RJ

Tel: +44 (0)1902 452 914

Fax: +44 (0)1902 871 547

Out Of Hours: +44 (0)7770 747724

 

As for uprated pumps, there appears to be conflicting experiences as to whether these are any better and some evidence that they might even be worse than standard, so I would stick with standard. A good standard pump should be more than adequate.

 

I have no connection with EPS other than as a satisfied customer - if you can't afford to wait for an exchanged unit, I have some spare rebuilt units - you are welcome to have one if you let me have one of their rebuilt units in exchange - PM me if interested

 

Cheers

Rich

Many thanks Rich, I may well be in touch. Will get another opinion @ my garage on Friday when car goes in for MOT & see what is needed. I assume my existing alloy pulley will fit ok & new fixing nuts & bolts would be sensible?

Regards.

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Have you the type of Pump with the small hole underneath the Bearing Housing,this is where the Grease started to weep on mine and had the same symptoms as yourself.

Probably a dumb question Niall but what is that hole for apart from letting the grease run out?!

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Many thanks Rich, I may well be in touch. Will get another opinion @ my garage on Friday when car goes in for MOT & see what is needed. I assume my existing alloy pulley will fit ok & new fixing nuts & bolts would be sensible?

Regards.

Monty

I don't see why your alloy pulley should be a problem as it's presumably fitted OK to your existing pump - obviously remove the pulley if you send you pump off for rebuilding, irrespective of whether its alloy or an original steel one and don't lose the key on the shaft in case the new one doesn't have one ( I think they do)

 

Re new bolts, in my ( limited!) experience, the old ones are normally OK, but there is no harm in renewing them but I think you will find they are UNC threads, so maybe not on all suppliers shelves - bear in mind you only need to remove pump itself, not the whole housing which it sits on

 

Cheers

 

Rich

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Presuming that my woes are due to a faulty water pump (to be confirmed tomorrow probably), how difficult is it to replace by myself?

All a bit tight around that area due to the electric fan probably getting in the way of extracting the pump pulley amongst other things. Can you remove just the pump assembly once the pulley is off, leaving the housing attached to the block? I guess the assembly will be a tight fit if it has been on a while (separate with a drift?). Do you fit the gasket dry or with sealant? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

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I have always regarded the small hole as a tell tale hole, if found leaking water the seal is failing and needs replacing.

Paul

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Presuming that my woes are due to a faulty water pump (to be confirmed tomorrow probably), how difficult is it to replace by myself?

All a bit tight around that area due to the electric fan probably getting in the way of extracting the pump pulley amongst other things. Can you remove just the pump assembly once the pulley is off, leaving the housing attached to the block? I guess the assembly will be a tight fit if it has been on a while (separate with a drift?). Do you fit the gasket dry or with sealant? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Monty

You don't need to disturb the pump/block housing to remove pump - I'm sure you can get the pump off without removing the pulley but you will need a good open ended spanner to get behind the pulley on some of the bolts - as they come out, they will foul the back of the pulley, so you will need to loosen the pump on its housing ( drift it carefully to loosen it but not on the pulley or you are likely to break it!) and move it forward as you undo the bolts - if you haven't got much space because of the fan, then you may have to remove the fan - if you have got a bit of space, it would be much easier to remove the pulley first, but they can be tight and awkward to get off in the space available at the best of times.

 

Your alloy pulley will be a bit more forgiving than an original cast one but still be careful as you don;t want to bend it getting it off!

 

Make sure you clean all the old gasket off all mating surfaces and use a good quality gasket with a decent gasket sealant

 

Cheers

Rich

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